HSPF2 Ratios: Everything You Need to Know

Heat pumps are known for being energy efficient. Some of them, in fact, are up to 300% efficient when in heating mode, meaning they can produce three times as much heat as the energy they consume. But heat pumps don’t use the same efficiency metrics as furnaces. While the furnace efficiency is often measured in Annual Fuel Utilization Efficiency (AFUE) ratio, heat pump efficiency is often measured in Heating Seasonal Performance Factor2 (HSPF2).

What Is HSPF?

HSPF is a measurement of a heat pump’s efficiency. It represents the ratio of a heat pump’s output – as measured in British Thermal Units (BTUs) – relative to the heat pump’s consumed electricity during a typical heating season.

Heat pumps with a high HSPF ratio are more efficient than those with a low HSPF ratio. The U.S. Department of Energy (DOE) regularly evaluates its efficiency specifications. In a recent evaluation, the DOE identified ways to improve the HSPF specification. This led to the creation of the HSPF2 standard, which uses a refined formula to calculate the efficiency of heat pumps.

What Is HSPF2?

HSPF2 is the successor to the HSPF specification. As previously mentioned, it uses a different and modified formula to determine the efficiency of heat pumps.

HSPF2 is still based on the heating output of a heat pump relative to its consumed electricity, but the DOE now requires different testing for HSPF2. Nonetheless, a high HSPF2 ratio indicates an energy-efficient heat pump. A low HSPF2 ratio, on the other hand, indicates a lower level of heating efficiency for heat pumps.

Why Choose a High-HSPF2 Heat Pump

Why should you choose a heat pump with a high HSPF2 ratio exactly? The DOE requires all new heat pump systems to conform to this specification. All split-system heat pumps must have an HSPF2 ratio of at least 7.5, and all packaged heat pumps must have an HSPF2 ratio of at least 6.7.

A high HSPF2 ratio can save you money on your home’s heating costs. By choosing a heat pump with a high HSPF2 ratio, you’ll experience cost-savings benefits in the form of lower utility bills. It will warm your home by transferring heat from the outdoors to your home’s interior.

The HSPF2 specification is less forgiving than its predecessor, the HSPF specification. It involves harsher testing conditions. With these harsher testing conditions, HSPF2 offers a clearer and more accurate representation of a heat pump’s efficiency.

Heat Pump Expansion Valve vs Reversing Valve: What’s the Difference?

More and more homeowners in Georgia are switching to heat pumps. They are about 50% more efficient than electric heating systems like furnaces, according to the U.S. Department of Energy (DOE). Heat pumps, of course, can cool the homes in which they are used as well. You can use a heat pump to warm your home during the winter, and you can use it to cool your home during the summer.

Heat pumps contain valves, such as an expansion valve and a reversing valve. Like all valves, they both control the flow of fluid. Expansion and reversing valves, however, serve different purposes in a heat pump.

Overview of Expansion Valves

Expansion valves are small devices that are designed to relieve pressure from the refrigerant in a heating, ventilation and cooling system (HVAC). They are commonly used in split-system air conditioning systems and heat pumps.

Air conditioning systems and heat pumps rely on refrigerant to transfer heat. Between the condenser unit and the evaporator coil is an expansion valve. The expansion valve will lower the pressure of the refrigerant, thereby causing the refrigerant to cool. When this occurs, the refrigerant will expand while changing from a liquid to gas state.

Overview of Reversing Valves

Reversing valves are refrigerant-regulating devices that are designed to change the direction in which the refrigerant travels. They are exclusive to heat pumps. While air conditioning systems have an expansion valve, they don’t have a reversing valve.

The reversing valve in a heat pump will change the refrigerant’s direction. Heat pumps feature an indoor coil and an outdoor coil. While in cooling mode, refrigerant will absorb heat at the indoor coil. From there, refrigerant will travel to the outdoor coil to release the heat. While in heating mode, conversely, refrigerant will absorb heat at the outdoor coil and transfer it to the indoor coil. The reversing valve’s job is to change the direction of the refrigerant so that the heat pump can perform the appropriate climate-controlling action.

Differences Between Expansion Valves and Reversing Valves

Expansion valves and reversing valves aren’t the same. The expansion valve in a heat pump will relieve pressure from the refrigerant. As the pressure of the refrigerant drops, so will the temperature of the refrigerant. The newly cooled, gas refrigerant can then absorb heat at the indoor coil.

Reversing valves don’t affect the pressure or temperature of the refrigerant. Rather, they only affect the direction in which the refrigerant travels. Heat pumps require a reversing valve so that they can both cool and warm the homes in which they are used. The reversing valve will change the direction of the refrigerant when the heat pump switches from cooling to heating mode or vice versa.

Does Your Tankless Water Heater Have a Clogged Inlet Filter?

An inlet filter is a common part of many water heaters. Most tankless water heaters feature an inlet filter. Like all filters, however, inlet filters can become clogged. Over time, sediment may build up within an inlet filter while restricting the flow of water. How do you know if your water heater has a clogged inlet filter exactly?

The Basics of the Inlet Filter

An inlet filter is a filtration device that’s found on the incoming water line. Before entering a tankless water heater, the cold water must pass through an inlet filter. There are different types of inlet filters, but they are all designed to remove debris like sediment from the water. Most inlet filters consist of a cartridge with a mesh screen. Water will be able to travel through the mesh screen, but sediment will not.

Why Tankless Water Heaters Need an Inlet Filter

While some tank-based water heaters feature them, inlet filters are particularly common with tankless water heaters. Tankless water heaters need an inlet filter to operate properly. It will catch and remove sediment in the water.

Traditional tank-based water heaters may or may not have an inlet filter. Even without an inlet filter, sediment will collect at the bottom of the tank. Tankless water heaters don’t have a tank; they only feature a heat exchanger or element. With their smaller and narrower passages, they are more susceptible to sediment buildup.

Signs of a Clogged Inlet Filter

Low water pressure is a sign of a clogged inlet filter. If the water is just trickling out of your faucets, you should check the inlet filter. A clogged inlet filter will restrict the flow of water. Less water will reach your tankless water heater, resulting in lower water pressure throughout your home.

Even if the water pressure in your home is fine, you may be dealing with a clogged inlet filter. It can have a negative impact on heating performance. All of the sediment within the inlet filter may interfere with your tankless water heater’s operations. Rather than producing hot water, it may only produce lukewarm water.

Your tankless water heater will become less efficient if the inlet filter is clogged. The clogged inlet will result in increased energy consumption. Your tankless water heater will have to consume more electricity or gas to supply your home with heated water. Along with low water pressure and poor heating, increased energy consumption is a sign of a clogged inlet filter.

A Crash Course on Thermostat Modes

Are you familiar with the different thermostat modes? Thermostats are control interfaces for heating, ventilation and cooling (HVAC) systems. You can activate your air conditioning system or furnace at the thermostat to achieve a comfortable indoor temperature. Thermostats, however, have different modes. While you may already know some of these modes, you might be unfamiliar with others.

Cool and Heat

Cool and heat modes are self-explanatory. They will activate your air conditioning system or furnace, respectively. You can use the cool mode to cool your home during the summer, and you can use the heat mode to heat your home during the winter.

Home

Some thermostats feature a home mode. When selected, home mode will prompt the thermostat to follow the regular programming schedule. You can program the thermostat. You can then select home mode so that it will continue to follow this programming schedule.

Away

In addition to a home mode, some thermostats feature an away mode. It’s essentially the opposite of home mode. Also known as vacation mode, it will override the thermostat’s programming schedule. If you’re going on vacation or taking an extended business trip, you may want to select away mode to conserve energy.

On and Auto

Nearly all thermostats have an on and auto mode. These modes control the fan. Whether you’re running your air conditioning system or furnace, the blower fan will spin to blow the conditioned air into the ductwork. Selecting on mode means the fan will run continuously, regardless of whether or not your air conditioning system or furnace is running. Selecting the auto mode, conversely, means the fan will only run while your air conditioning system or furnace is running.

Emergency Heat

Emergency heat is available as an alternative heating mode on some thermostats. As the name suggests, it’s designed for emergency heating scenarios. If you have a heat pump instead of a traditional air conditioning system and furnace combo, you may be able to select emergency heat on the thermostat. Emergency heat will activate a backup heating system, such as an electric or gas furnace, to heat your home.

Eco

Some thermostats feature an eco mode. Eco mode is designed to conserve energy. It’s a common feature with smart thermostats, including the Nest. Upon sensing that your home is unoccupied, the smart thermostat may automatically switch to eco mode. It will then conserve energy until your home becomes occupied again.

5 Signs Your AC System Is Low on Compressor Oil

The compressor is one of the most important parts of an air conditioning system. Located in the condenser unit – the outdoor unit – it’s responsible for compressing the refrigerant. This process will change the refrigerant from a gas to a liquid state so that the condenser coil can effectively remove heat from it. With little or no compressor oil, however, you may experience the following problems when running your air conditioning system.

#1) Unusual Noises

If you hear unusual noises coming from the compressor, it may be low on oil. A low oil level can cause unusual noises, such as knocking, banging or humming. Compressors contain multiple moving parts. As the oil levels begin to drop, friction will increase between these parts. You may then hear the compressor’s parts as they rub against each other due to this friction.

#2) Excessive Vibrations

Strong or excessive vibrations can be a sign of a low compressor oil. The next time your air conditioning system turns on, walk around to the side of your home and find the condenser unit. The condenser unit is a large box-shaped container that houses the compressor, condenser coil and other related parts. If the compressor is low on oil, it may vibrate excessively.

#3) Seizing

One of the most telltale signs of low compressor oil is seizing. Seizing means the compressor locks up.  Without sufficient oil, the compressor will succumb to friction. All of this friction will wear down the compressor to the point where it seizes up.

#4 Poor Cooling Power

If your air conditioning system isn’t cooling your home like it used to, the compressor may be low on oil. Air conditioning systems work by capturing heat from the interior of a home and transporting it to the exterior of the home. The compressor’s job is to compress the refrigerant, which is the medium for this heat transfer process, at the condenser unit. When it fails, your air conditioning system will struggle to release heat outside of your home at the condenser coil, resulting in poor cooling power.

#5) Loss of Refrigerant

Another sign that your air conditioning system is low on compressor is a loss of refrigerant. Compressor oil helps to reinforce the mechanical seals, such as O-rings or gaskets, that contain the refrigerant. With little or no oil, refrigerant may work its way past these mechanical seals and, thus, leak out of the compressor.

Getting Your AC System Ready for Pollen Season

Is your air conditioning system ready for pollen season? In Georgia, the pollen season typically begins in March and ends in April. This is when the pollen count is the highest for most cities throughout the Peach State. While you can’t prevent flowers and trees from releasing pollen, there are ways to prepare your air conditioning system for the pollen season. Here’s how.

Get Your Air Ducts Cleaned

You can prepare your air conditioning system for the pollen season by getting your air ducts cleaned. Air ducts are conduits that carry conditioned air to the rooms in your home and unconditioned air back to your air conditioning system’s evaporator coil. Over time, they accumulate pollen and other contaminants. A professional cleaning service will remove these contaminants while allowing you and your family to breathe a little easier during the pollen season.

Switch to a HEPA Filter

Switching to a high-efficiency particulate air (HEPA) filter can give you the upper hand on pollen this spring. All central air conditioning systems require an air filter. It’s typically found near the evaporator coil. Your air conditioning system will pull unconditioned air through the air filter and over the evaporator coil. After passing over the evaporator coil, the air will become cool and conditioned.

HEPA filters work like other air filters by catching particulate matter. The difference is that they are designed to remove smaller, finer particles than their standard counterparts. The U.S. Department of Energy (DOE) says that air filters must be able to remove 99.97% of all particulate matter measuring 0.3 microns or less in diameter to receive the “HEPA” label. By switching to a HEPA filter, you’ll have a cleaner home with less pollen.

Get Your AC System Serviced

You can prepare your air conditioning system for the pollen season by getting it serviced. Servicing typically consists of a multipoint inspection. During this inspection, the technician will check all of your air conditioning system’s components to ensure they are working as intended.

Open Up the Vents

Don’t forget to open up all of the air vents in your home. Closed air vents can lead to increased levels of airborne contaminants, including pollen.

If you close the air vents in a room, it won’t receive conditioned air. The air will remain stagnant and humid. More importantly, pollen may build up inside of the room. You can better prepare your air conditioning system for the pollen season by opening up all of the air vents in your home.

How Residential AC Systems Differ From Commercial AC Systems

Air conditioning systems aren’t limited to homes; they are commonly found in offices, factories and other commercial buildings as well. If a commercial building is regularly occupied, it will likely have an air conditioning system. Residential and commercial air conditioning systems consist of similar parts, but there are several nuances between them.

Size

Not surprisingly, residential air conditioning systems are typically smaller than commercial air conditioning systems. Most of them range from 1.5 to 5 tons. Commercial air conditioning systems, on the other hand, have an average cooling capacity of over 5 tons. Commercial buildings have more indoor space that must be cooled, so they require larger air conditioning systems with a cooling capacity of over 5 tons.

Location

While they contain many of the same parts, residential and commercial air conditioning systems are installed in different areas. Condenser units are always installed outdoors. For residential air conditioning systems, the condenser unit is typically installed on the ground near the side of the house. For commercial air conditioning systems, the condenser unit may be installed on the ground or roof.

Commercial buildings feature larger, stronger roofs than most homes. Therefore, they can support the weight of a heavy condenser unit. There are some homes with a roof-installed air conditioning system, but most residential air conditioning systems use a ground-based installation method.

Zoning

Commercial air conditioning systems are often zoned. Zoning is the process is segmenting an indoor space into multiple cooling zones. Each cooling zone can be controlled independently of the other cooling zones. They typically have their own thermostats, and the ductwork features dampers to independently control the cooling zones.

Residential air conditioning systems can have zones as well. But zoning is more common with commercial air conditioning systems. Commercial air conditioning systems are designed to cool large indoor spaces. Some of these spaces may require separate cooling than the other spaces, which is why commercial air conditioning systems are often zoned.

Drainage

Another difference between residential and commercial air conditioning systems is their drainage. Both types of air conditioning systems have a drainage system for condensation. When absorbing heat at the evaporator coil, condensation will form. The evaporator coil will essentially pull moisture vapor out of the air. All of this moisture must be flushed to the home’s or building’s exterior via a drainage system.

Commercial air conditioning systems will produce more condensation than their residential counterparts. And because they produce more condensation, they require larger and more complex drainage systems.

5 Factors That Affect the Ideal Size of an AC System

You can’t choose the right air conditioning system for your home without considering the size. The size of an air conditioning system represents its cooling capacity. It’s typically measured in British Thermal Units (BTUs). Bigger air conditioning systems have a higher BTU rating than their smaller counterparts. How do you what size air conditioning system is right for your home exactly?

#1) Total Square Footage of Living Space

The main factor that affects the ideal size of an air conditioning system is your home’s total square footage of living space. You’ll need to calculate the total square footage of your home’s living space – the areas that you intend to cool with the air conditioning system – after which you can choose an appropriately sized air conditioning system. If you have a large home with a lot of living space, you may need a large air conditioning system.

#2) Wall Height

The height of the walls inside of your home will affect the ideal size of an air conditioning system. Total square footage only takes into account the length and width of the rooms; it doesn’t take into account the height of the rooms. Rooms with tall walls will require a larger air conditioning system to cool. If most of the rooms in your home have short walls, on the other hand, a smaller air conditioning system may suffice.

#3) Insulation

Another factor that affects the ideal size of an air conditioning system is insulation. If your home has insufficient insulation, you may need to choose a larger air conditioning system. Of course, the best course of action is to install new insulation. A large air conditioning system can cool your home, but it will waste energy with missing or insufficient insulation.

#4) Windows

Something else that can affect the ideal size of an air conditioning system is windows. Windows are a source of heat gain. During the day, sunlight will beam through your home’s windows, thus warming your home. If your home has a lot of windows, you may need to choose a larger air conditioning system to counter this heat gain.

#5) Number of AC System Units

While most homes only have a single air conditioning system, some of them have two or more air conditioning systems. If you’re planning to install multiple air conditioning systems in your home, a smaller size may suffice. Rather than a single large air conditioning system, you can install two small air conditioning systems.

Water Heaters: How Does the Overflow Pipe Work?

When inspecting your water heater, you may notice that it has a long vertical pipe on the side. Known as an overflow pipe, it’s an important safety feature. The overflow pipe works in conjunction with the pressure relief valve to prevent the tank from generating too much pressure. For a better understanding of the overflow pipe and how it works, keep reading.

What Is the Overflow Pipe?

The overflow pipe is a vertical pipe on the side of a water heater that serves as a drainage system for excess water. It typically runs from the top of the water heater all the way down the side of the water heater. It’s known as an “overflow pipe” because it drains any water that flows over the water heater.

How the Overflow Pipe Works

The overflow pipe is nothing more than a hollow pipe – typically polyvinyl chloride (PVC) – that’s connected to the top of a water heater. If the pressure inside of a water heater gets too high, some of the excess water will spill out the top of the water heater and drain through the overflow pipe.

Most water heaters have an overflow pipe and a pressure relief valve. Also known as a T&P valve, the pressure relief valve allows excess water to escape. If the pressure gets too high, the pressure relief valve will open. Some of the excess water will then drain through the overflow pipe.

What a Leaking Overflow Pipe Means

If your water heater has a leaking overflow pipe, it’s typically a sign that the pressure is too high. Normally, water shouldn’t drain through the overflow pipe. Water heaters, of course, generate pressure as a byproduct of heating the water. Whether you have a gas or electric water heater, it will generate pressure via thermal expansion. The hot water inside of the tank will expand, but because there’s nowhere for the water to go, it will become pressurized.

Your water heater can only handle so much pressure, which is why it has a pressure relief valve and an overflow pipe. If the pressure rises beyond the pounds per square inch (PSI) for which it’s rated, your water heater may drain some of the excess water through the overflow pipe. Therefore, a leaking overflow pipe is a sign of an underlying problem. In most cases, it means your water heater is generating too much pressure.

Why Your Heat Pump’s Outdoor Unit Is Freezing Up During the Summer

Discovering ice on your heat pump’s outdoor unit during the summer can be alarming. Georgia is known for its hot summers. Even if your heat pump’s outdoor unit is in a shaded area, it won’t be exposed to subfreezing temperatures during the summer. But heat pumps can still freeze up during this otherwise hot and humid time of year.

Dirty Air Filter

A dirty air filter may cause your heat pump’s outdoor unit to freeze up. Like air conditioning systems, heat pumps require proper airflow to cool indoor spaces. Your heat pump will force air over an indoor unit to collect heat from your home’s interior. It will then release this heat by forcing air over an outdoor unit.

Your heat pump’s airflow will be restricted if it has a dirty air filter. Air must pass through a filter at the indoor unit. If the air filter is dirty, it may not absorb a sufficient amount of heat from your home’s interior. The temperature of the refrigerant will then drop, which can result in the outdoor unit freezing up.

Refrigerant Leak

One of the most common causes of a frozen outdoor unit during the summer is a refrigerant leak. Refrigerant runs between your heat pump’s indoor unit and its outdoor unit – all while collecting and releasing heat. If your heat pump has a leak, it will gradually lose its refrigerant.

As your heat pump’s refrigerant levels begin to drop, so will the pressure inside of it. This can lead to poor cooling, and it can lead to a frozen outdoor unit. Once your heat pump’s refrigerant has been completely depleted, the outdoor unit will no longer freeze up. Nonetheless, the early and middle stages of a refrigerant leak can lead to a frozen outdoor unit.

Dirty Evaporator Coil

A dirty evaporator coil may cause your heat pump’s outdoor unit to freeze up during the summer. The evaporator coil is part of your heat pump’s indoor unit. Heat pumps and air conditioning systems both have an evaporator coil. The evaporator coil will absorb heat so that it can be transferred to the outdoor unit.

If your heat pump has a dirty evaporator coil, it won’t be able to effectively cool your home. It will absorb less heat, and it will suffer from restricted airflow. You can replace a dirty air filter. If the evaporator coil is dirty, though, you should consider getting it professionally cleaned and inspected, instead.

Why Shouldn’t Close Air Vents in Unused Rooms

It’s not uncommon for homeowners to close air vents in unused rooms, believing it will save them money on their home’s heating and cooling costs. After all, if a room isn’t being occupied, there’s no point in heating or cooling it – at least that’s the belief shared by many homeowners. If you’re guilty of closing the air vents in your home’s unused rooms, though, you may want to leave them open. Closing the air vents in unused rooms can backfire in the following ways.

Damage to Air Ducts

Closing the air vents in unused rooms can damage your heating, ventilation and cooling (HVAC) system’s air ducts. HVAC systems are designed to push conditioned air through the ductwork at a specific pressure. When you fully close multiple air vents, it will increase the pressure of the conditioned air.

Too much pressure can damage your HVAC system’s air ducts. The inner walls of the air ducts may burst. Even if it’s just a hairline tear in the air ducts, it will allow conditioned air to escape.

High Humidity

The unused rooms in your home may become more humid if you close the air vents in them. They’ll suffer from a lack of circulation, which can lead to high humidity levels during the summer months.

Air conditioning systems offer dehumidification. They will remove moisture vapor from the air, resulting in a lower humidity level. If you close the air vents in unused rooms, however, your air conditioning system will struggle to dehumidify those spaces. The other rooms in your home may have a suitable humidity level, but the unused rooms will be heavily saturated in moisture vapor.

Poor Efficiency

Your HVAC system won’t become more efficient if you close the air vents in unused rooms. At best, it will have no impact on your HVAC system’s efficiency. Closing the air vents in unused rooms may actually make your HVAC system less efficient.

HVAC systems are available in different sizes. And contrary to popular belief, bigger isn’t always better. If your HVAC system is too big for your home, it will consume excess energy while potentially short cycling as well.

Closing the air vents in used rooms will change the “functional” size of your HVAC system. Your HVAC system will essentially be bigger relative to the size of your home that it’s heating and cooling. The end result is poorer efficiency and the potential for short cycling.

The Impact of a Clogged Condensate Drain

Does your air conditioning system have a clogged condensate drain? Consisting primarily of a pan and pipe, the condensate drain is designed to flush the condensation produced by an air conditioning system. Condensation will form on your air conditioning system’s evaporator coil. As the water droplets continue to grow, they will eventually fall off the evaporator coil and into the pan below.

At the bottom of this pan is a pipe – typically a piece of PVC pipe – that runs to your home’s exterior. Condensation will drip into the pan, at which point it will be flushed to your home’s exterior. A clogged condensate drain, however, will prevent this from happening. Condensation will pool up inside of the pan, which can cause several problems.

Water Damage

Turning a blind eye to a clogged condensate drain may result in water damage to your home. Condensation is water. It’s essentially water vapor that condenses on a surface, such as an evaporator coil. With a clogged condensate drain, there won’t be anywhere for the water to go. It may spill over the top of the pan and into the surrounding room or space.

High Humidity

The air in your home will become more humid if the condensate drain is clogged. Air conditioning systems both dehumidify and cool indoor spaces. When running your air conditioning system, the air in your home will become less humid.

Your air conditioning system will remove moisture vapor from the air by forcing it to condense on the evaporator coil. If the condensate drain is clogged, it won’t be able to perform this dehumidification process. The end result is a higher indoor humidity level.

Mold Growth

Because of its impact on humidity, a clogged condensate drain will encourage mold growth. The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) says that homes should have a relative humidity level of 30% to 50% to protect against mold. A clogged condensate drain is a common cause of high humidity. It can push your home’s humidity level above 50% while creating breeding grounds for mold and mildew.

Poor Cooling Performance

A clogged condensate drain can have a negative impact on your air conditioning system’s cooling performance. Air conditioning systems work harder in humid environments than dry or low-humid environments. It may still lower your home’s indoor temperature, but you may have to run your air conditioning system for a longer period to achieve the desired temperature.

Water Heater Reset Buttons Explained: What You Should Know

When inspecting your water heater, you may discover a reset button. Most water heaters have a reset button. Also known as an emergency shutoff switch, it’s typically found near the thermostat. If something goes awry, you may need to press the reset button to restore your water heater’s functionality.

The Purpose of the Reset Button

The reset button on your water heater is designed to interrupt the flow of electricity. Most water heaters are powered partially or entirely by electricity. If there’s a problem with your water heater, you can try to reset it. The reset button will interrupt the flow of electricity to your water heater, which may resolve certain issues.

How the Reset Button Works

You can activate the reset button manually by pressing it. When pressed, electricity will stop flowing to your water heater. Releasing the reset button will then resume the flow of electricity, thereby “resetting” your water heater.

In addition to manual activation, the reset button may be activated automatically. It’s essentially a safety device. If the water gets too hot inside of your water heater, it may automatically activate the reset button as a failsafe mechanism.

What Causes the Reset Button to Trip?

One of the most common reasons the reset button activates or trips automatically is the water is too hot. Water heaters, of course, are designed to warm the water coming into homes or buildings. They use burners or a heating element to raise the temperature of the incoming water. If the water gets too hot, though, it may pose a safety hazard.

Most water heaters are designed to operate at a temperature of about 180 degrees Fahrenheit. As the water temperature creeps above this limit, it may damage the water heater or even cause the tank to explode. The reset button will typically trip if the water gets too hot to prevent problems such as these.

A malfunctioning thermostat can cause the reset button to trip as well. All water heaters have at least one thermostat. Thermostats are designed to sense the temperature of the water. If the thermostat in your water heater fails, it may sense an incorrect temperature. The thermostat may think the water is hotter than what it really is, in which case your water heater may trip the reset button.

A faulty heating element may result in a tripped reset button. Heating elements can experience shorts. When a short occurs, the heating element will continue to draw electricity – even after warming the water to the appropriate temperature.

What Causes Refrigerant Lines to Leak?

A leaking refrigerant line is a serious problem that can leave you and your family with air conditioning during the summer. Even if it’s a pinhole-sized leak, it will allow refrigerant to escape your air conditioning system. As the refrigerant level begins to drop, your air conditioning system’s performance will begin to suffer.

Most air conditioning systems have two refrigerant lines: a suction line and a vapor line. The suction line is larger than the vapor line. It’s found between the compressor and the evaporator coil. The vapor line, in comparison, is a smaller refrigerant line that’s found between the condenser coil and the evaporator coil. Both of these lines carry refrigerant, and they can both leak. Below are some of the most common reasons why refrigerant lines leak.

Excess Pressure

Too much pressure can cause refrigerant lines to leak. The suction line is designed to carry low-pressure refrigerant in a gas state to the compressor. The vapor line, in comparison, is designed to carry high-pressure refrigerant to the evaporator coil. Regardless, both types of refrigerant lines are pressurized. If either of them exceed the pressure for which they are designed, they may leak.

Missing Insulation

Your air conditioning system may spring a leak if the suction line is missing insulation. The vapor line typically doesn’t require insulation. The suction line, in comparison, does require insulation. Insulation will keep the suction line cold while simultaneously preventing condensation from developing on it. If there’s little or no insulation on the suction line, condensation may build up. If left unchecked, all of this condensation may degrade the suction line to the point where it leaks.

Improper Installation

Improper installation can cause refrigerant lines to leak. Refrigerant lines must be completely sealed. If the suction line or vapor line is loose or otherwise not sealed, it will leak. You shouldn’t attempt to install or replace refrigerant lines yourself. To prevent leaks, contact a heating, ventilation and cooling (HVAC) professional for assistance. HVAC professionals know how to properly install refrigerant lines so that leaks don’t occur.

Corrosion

Refrigerant lines may leak due to corrosion. Most air conditioning systems use copper refrigerant lines. Both the suction line and the vapor line are made of copper. Copper, of course, doesn’t contain iron, so it doesn’t rust. But copper can still corrode due to chemical reactions like oxidation. Corrosion will cause the copper to break down, eventually creating small leaks that allow refrigerant to escape.

The Role Metering Play Devices in AC Systems

When most people think of residential air conditioning systems, they envision the condenser unit and the evaporator coil. These are two of the most important parts of a typical home’s air conditioning system. The condenser coil contains the condenser coil and compressor, whereas the evaporator coil consists entirely of an indoor-installed coil. There are other parts in residential air conditioning systems, however, such as metering devices.

What Are Metering Devices?

Metering devices are components that are designed to reduce the pressure of refrigerant. Air conditioning systems use refrigerant as a heat transfer medium. Refrigerant will flow through your air conditioning system’s condenser coil and evaporator coil, during which it will transfer heat from your home’s indoors to the outdoors.

Refrigerant must be pressurized so that it can effectively absorb and release heat. Immediately before the evaporator coil is a pressure-regulating device. Known as a metering device, it will lower the pressure of the refrigerant so that it becomes cooler before entering the evaporator coil.

The Types of Metering Devices

There are fixed metering devices, and there are modulating metering devices. They are both designed to reduce the pressure of refrigerant. The difference is that fixed metering devices have a static operation, whereas modulating metering devices have an adjustable operation.

Fixed metering devices will always lower the pressure of the refrigerant by a specific amount. Modulating metering devices, in comparison, can adjust their pressure-regulating effects.

Fixed metering devices are more common in older air conditioning systems. If your air conditioning system is more than 10 or 20 years old, it may feature a fixed metering device. If you have a new air conditioning system, it probably features a modulating metering device.

Why Your AC System Needs a Metering Device

Your air conditioning system needs a metering device so that it can transfer heat from your home’s indoors to the outdoors. It will lower the pressure of the refrigerant immediately before the evaporator coil. As the pressure drops, the evaporator coil will become cooler. It will then be able to absorb more heat from the surrounding air at the evaporator coil.

Without a metering device, your air conditioning system will struggle to cool your home. The refrigerant will remain highly pressurized and hot as it enters the evaporator coil. As a result, the refrigerant will absorb less heat. If your air conditioning system has a faulty metering device, it will likely manifest in the form of poor cooling performance.

What Is a Hybrid Water Heater?

If you’re looking to replace the water heater in your home, you’ll need to choose the right type. Not all water heaters are the same. While they are all designed to heat the water coming into your home, the way in which they perform this task may vary. There are traditional water heaters that burn natural gas or consume electricity to heat the heat, and there are hybrid water heaters.

The Basics of a Hybrid Water Heater

A hybrid water heater is a relatively new type of water heater that uses heat from the outdoor air to heat the water coming into homes. They are also known as heat pump water heaters. Heat pumps, of course, are heating, ventilation and cooling (HVAC) systems. A heat pump can warm or cool your home by transferring heat into or out of your home. Hybrid water heaters use a similar method of operation, but they are designed specifically to heat the water.

How Hybrid Water Heaters Work

Hybrid water heaters feature many of the same components as heat pumps, including coils. They feature an outdoor coil to absorb heat from the air. Refrigerant will travel through this coil, during which it will absorb heat. The hot refrigerant will travel to a heat exchanger unit connected to the hybrid water heater’s tank. This will heat the water in the tank.

Benefits of Choosing a Hybrid Water Heater

What are the benefits of choosing a hybrid water heater exactly? For starters, they are very efficient. Traditional water heaters rely on natural gas or electricity to heat the water. Hybrid water heaters still consume some electricity, but they use that electricity to transfer heat from the outdoor air to the tank. The end result is a highly efficient heating operation. Some hybrid water heaters are two to three times more efficient than traditional water heaters.

You don’t have to worry about cold spells leaving you and your family without hot water. They are known as “hybrid water heaters” because they still have a backup heating method. A hybrid water heater will attempt to heat your home’s incoming water by transferring heat from the outdoor air. If it’s unable to, however, the hybrid water heater will use a traditional electric heating element.

Even if your home doesn’t have a gas supply line, you can still install a hybrid water heater in it. Hybrid water heaters don’t run on natural gas. Rather, they are entirely electric.

Single-Run vs Dual-Run AC System Capacitors

Does your air conditioning system need a new run capacitor? Consisting of a cylindrical electrical component, it will provide your air conditioning system with stored electricity so that it can continue to run. Your air conditioning system will still use your home’s electricity, but it will leverage the run capacitor to keep your air conditioning system running.

What Is a Single-Run Capacitor?

A single-run capacitor is a type of capacitor that’s used to keep a single motor running. They can connect to air conditioning system fan motors, blower motors and compressor motors. Like all capacitors, a single-run capacitor will store electricity. It will use some of this electricity to keep the motor to which it’s connected running.

What Is a Dual-Run Capacitor?

A dual-run capacitor is a type of capacitor that functions as both a run capacitor and a start capacitor. It’s essentially two capacitors in a single unit. Dual-run capacitors feature a run capacitor, and they feature a start capacitor. You can use a dual-run capacitor in place of separate run and start capacitors.

Start capacitors provide the motor to which they are connected an initial jolt of electricity. The motor will then begin to spin. Run capacitors provide the motor with supplemental electricity when needed. Motors don’t always need to draw electricity from run capacitors. Nonetheless, there may be times when a motor needs additional electricity, in which case it will tap into the run capacitor.

Differences Between Single-Run and Dual-Run Capacitors

Single-run and dual-run capacitors are two different types of air conditioning system capacitors. A single-run capacitor is a regular run capacitor. A dual-run capacitor is an alternative, two-in-one capacitor. It functions as both a run capacitor and a start capacitor.

You can install a separate run and start capacitor, or you can choose a dual-run capacitor. Run capacitors provide torque via electricity when required by the motor. Start capacitors, in comparison, provide an initial jolt of electricity to turn on and start the motor. A dual-run capacitor will perform both of these tasks.

In Conclusion

If your air conditioning system needs a new run capacitor, you should consider choosing a dual-run capacitor. Capacitors are an important part of most residential air conditioning systems. There are start capacitors that are used to start air conditioning system motors, and there are run capacitors that are used to keep those motors running. A dual-run capacitor functions as both a run capacitor and a start capacitor.

Do AC Systems Use Bring in Outside Air?

Many homeowners assume that running their air conditioning system will replace the stagnant indoor air in their homes with fresh air from outside of their homes. After all, air conditioning systems have an outdoor unit. While conventional wisdom may lead you to believe that this outdoor unit brings in fresh air from outside of your home, this isn’t the case. For a better understanding of air conditioning systems and why they don’t bring in outside air, keep reading.

AC Systems Recycle Indoor Air

Air conditioning systems don’t bring in outside air. Instead, they recycle indoor air.  

When running your air conditioning system, the indoor air will circulate throughout your home. It will enter the return vents where it travels to the evaporator coil. The evaporator coil will absorb the heat of the indoor air. The newly cooled indoor air will then enter the ductwork before being distributed throughout your home’s living spaces. This cycle will continue to repeat until your air conditioning system turns off.

Why AC Systems Don’t Bring in Outside Air

Why don’t air conditioning systems bring in outside air exactly? It’s simply not how they are designed to work. Your air conditioning system would struggle to cool your home if it brought in outside air. During the summer, of course, the air outside of your home will probably be warmer than your home’s indoor air. Your air conditioning system would have to work overtime to cool this outside air.

Another reason air conditioning systems don’t bring in outside air is to minimize airborne pollutants. There are airborne pollutants everywhere, including the outdoors. Air conditioning systems are equipped with a filter to remove these pollutants. As your air conditioning system circulates your home’s indoor air, it will remove pollutants via the air filter.

If your air conditioning system brought it outside air, it wouldn’t be able to effectively remove airborne pollutants. It would actually introduce new airborne pollutants into your home. The air outside of your home contains pollutants. By pumping this outdoor air into your home, your air conditioning system would raise levels of indoor air pollution.

In Conclusion

Central air conditioning systems recycle indoor air rather than bring in outdoor air. This is because they are designed to remove heat from the indoor air. Air conditioning systems work by removing heat from the indoor air. Using refrigerant, they carry this heat from the evaporator coil to the condenser coil. At the same time, recycling indoor air allows air conditioning systems to better control indoor air pollution.

Common Myths and Misconceptions About Mini-Split HVAC Systems

Mini-split heating, ventilation and cooling (HVAC) systems offer a convenient climate-control solution for small indoor spaces. Maybe you want to cool your garage during the summer, or perhaps you have an upstairs bonus room that needs cooling. As their name suggests, mini-split HVAC systems are small and compact. Below are some common myths and misconceptions about mini-split HVAC systems.

Requires Ductwork

You don’t need ductwork to install a mini-split HVAC system. Mini-split HVAC systems, in fact, are distinguished from central HVAC systems by their lack of ductwork. They feature an outdoor component and an indoor component. You’ll need to install these two components, and you’ll need to connect them together, but you won’t need to install traditional ductwork.

Only Cools

A mini-split HVAC system can certainly cool individual rooms and other small spaces in your home, but many of them offer heating as well. They are known as mini-split heat pumps. Like traditional heat pumps, they offer both cooling and heating. Mini-split heat pumps can transfer heat from the outdoors to your home’s interior during the winter, or they can transfer heat from your home’s interior to the outdoors during the summer.

Same as Window AC Units

While some people use the terms “mini-split air conditioner” and “window air conditioner” interchangeably, they aren’t the same. Even if you choose a cooling-only mini-split HVAC system, it will feature different components than a window air conditioner.

Window air conditioners consist of a single unit that’s installed in a window. Mini-split HVAC systems, on the other hand, consist of two components – an indoor component and an outdoor component. The indoor component is typically installed on a wall, whereas the outdoor component is installed directly outside of the home nearby.

Difficult to Install

Installing a mini-split HVAC system is easier than you may think. Since they don’t require ductwork, they are far easier to install than traditional HVAC systems. And you can always hire an HVAC technician to handle the installation process. HVAC technicians know how to properly install mini-split HVAC systems for maximum performance.

Poor Efficiency

Another common myth about mini-split HVAC systems is that they aren’t very efficient. Efficiency represents how much warm or cool air an HVAC system can produce through the consumption of energy. Mini-split HVAC systems with the ENERGY STAR label are said to be 60% more efficient on average than electric radiator heaters.

Can Heat Pumps Work in Cold Weather?

Not all homes use a gas-based central heating system. According to the U.S. Energy Information Administration (EIA), over one-third of all U.S. homes now use an electric heating system, such as a furnace or heat pump.

Electric heat pumps are among the most energy efficient heating systems on the market. Using electricity, they work by pumping and transferring heat between the interior and exterior of a home. An electric heat pump can cool your home by transferring heat from the interior to the exterior, and it can warm your home by transferring heat from the exterior to the interior.

The Belief That Heat Pumps Won’t Work in Cold Weather

Because they work by transferring heat, some homeowners assume that heat pumps won’t work in cold weather. Unlike furnaces, heat pumps don’t generate heat directly. Rather, they transfer heat. If it’s particularly cold outside, you may assume that a heat pump won’t work. But the good news is that you can use a heat pump year-round, including when it’s cold outside.

Yes, Heat Pumps Work in Cold Weather

The truth is that most heat pumps still work in cold weather. There’s always some heat in the outdoor air. Even if it’s the middle of winter, a heat pump can extract this heat and transfer it to your home’s interior.

Georgia is also an ideal region for heat pumps. It has short and mild winters. You don’t have to worry about long cold spells during which the temperature drops below freezing. There may be some cold winter days in Georgia with subfreezing temperatures, but they are few and far between. These mild winters allow heat pumps to efficiently and effectively heat the homes in which they are installed.

While most residential heat pumps are air source, some of them are ground source. Ground-source heat pumps offer even better performance in cold weather. They extract heat from the ground. The ground holds more heat than the air, so ground-source heat pumps offer a superior level of performance in cold regions.

In Conclusion

It’s a common assumption that heat pumps don’t work in cold weather. Heat pumps may not generate heat directly, but they can still warm your home during the winter. A heat pump will transfer heat from the exterior of your home to the interior. Since there’s always some heat in the air, they will continue to work in cold weather.