Get Your AC System Ready for the Warm Weather With a Coil Cleaning Service

A coil cleaning service is a smart investment that can better prepare your air conditioning system for the warm weather. All air conditioning systems have coils. Over time, dirt and debris will accumulate on these coils. You may still be able to turn on your air conditioning system, but dirty coils will restrict its cooling performance.

What Is a Coil Cleaning Service

As the name suggests, a coil cleaning service is a professional heating, ventilation and cooling (HVAC) service that involves cleaning the coils in HVAC equipment. It’s often included in tune-up and maintenance plans. HVAC providers that offer tune-up and maintenance plans may clean their customers’ air conditioning system coils when visiting their homes.

The Importance of Clean Coils

Your air conditioning system relies on coils to create cool air. Regardless of its cooling capacity, it should feature two coils. Central air conditioning systems have an indoor coil, known as the evaporator coil, and an outdoor coil, known as the condenser coil.

When your air conditioning system turns on, it will blow air over the evaporator coil. This process will transfer heat from inside of your home to the refrigerant within the evaporator coil. The hot refrigerant will then flow to the condenser coil. Once at the condenser coil, a separate fan will blow air over the refrigerant to release the heat.

Clean coils will allow your air conditioning system to perform better. It will absorb more heat at the evaporator coil, and your air conditioning system will release more heat at the condenser coil. If the coils are dirty, on the other hand, your air conditioning system may struggle to cool your home.

Can You Clean Coils Yourself?

Some homeowners may attempt to clean their air conditioning system’s coils themselves. Do-it-yourself (DIY) coil cleaning is certainly an option, but a professional coil cleaning service is worth the cost.

HVAC technicians have the tools and expertise needed to effectively clean coils. They know how to remove otherwise stubborn dirt and debris so that you are left with pristine coils.

In addition to cleaning the coils, an HVAC technician can straighten bent fins. Both evaporator coils and condenser coils feature metal fins. The fins are designed to be straight so that they can transfer heat more effectively. If they are bent, they’ll transfer less heat. An HVAC technician can use a fin comb or straighten any bent fins and, thus, improve your air conditioning system’s performance.

Is It Time to Replace Your Gas Logs? Here’s How to Tell

One of the benefits of owning a gas fireplace is that you don’t have to mess with any firewood. Traditional wood-burning fireplaces require firewood, whereas gas fireplaces run on gas. When turned on, the burner assembly will produce a flame that rises up and around a set of gas logs.

Gas logs aren’t made of real wood. Rather, they are made of a heat-resistant material like ceramic or cement. While you don’t have to worry about them burning to ash, you’ll eventually need to replace them. How do you know when it’s time to replace your gas logs exactly?

Check for Cracks

If you discover any cracks in your gas logs, you should consider replacing them. Whether made of ceramic or cement, gas logs can crack. They will expand as they heat up, and they will contract back to their original size as they cool down. Over time, these expansion-contraction cycles can cause gas logs to crack. Rather than attempting to repair a cracked gas log, you should consider replacing it.

Consider the Age

You should consider replacing your gas logs if they are old. They may last longer than traditional wood logs, but gas logs still have a finite lifespan. Most of them will last for about 10 years. After reaching the 10-year mark, gas logs may show signs of wear and tear. If your gas logs are at least 10 years old, you should consider replacing them.

Discoloration

Discoloration is a sign that your gas logs have reached the end of their usable life. Gas logs may darken naturally over time. If you notice deep, dark char marks, though, you should consider replacing them.

Make Sure They Are the Right Size

If your gas logs are the wrong size, you should consider replacing them. Gas logs aren’t one-size-fits-all. Gas fireplaces are available in different sizes – and so are gas logs. You’ll need to choose a set of gas logs in an appropriate size for your gas fireplace. If they are too small or too big, they may cause problems with your gas fireplace.

Get a Professional Inspection

A professional inspection can reveal whether it’s time to replace your gas logs. During the inspection, a technician will check your gas fireplace and logs. If your gas logs are damaged, degraded or otherwise in need of replacing, the technician will let you know.

6 Common Airflow Problems With Residential HVAC Systems

You can’t ignore weak airflow with your heating, ventilation and cooling (HVAC) system. It’s typically a sign of an underlying problem. When you turn on your air conditioner or furnace, you should feel the conditioned air coming out of the supply vents at a relatively fast speed. Weak airflow means the conditioned air is coming out of the vents slowly or potentially not at all.

#1) Closed or Blocked Vents

Closed or blocked vents is a common cause of weak airflow. There are two types of vents used in HVAC systems: supply and return. Supply vents, as the name suggests, will supply your home with conditioned air, whereas return vents will suck in air so that it can be conditioned. Both types of vents need to be open and unobstructed for proper airflow.

#2) Insufficient Return Vents

Speaking of vents, you may notice weak airflow if your air conditioner if your home doesn’t have a sufficient amount of return vents. Insufficient return vents will restrict the amount of air that reaches your air conditioner and furnace. The end result is weak airflow and poor cooling and heating.

#3) Blower Motor Failure

If the blower motor has failed, you can expect weak airflow. Located near the furnace or in a separate Air Handling Unit (AHU), the blower motor is responsible for blowing air into the ductwork. It turns a fan, and the fan circulates air into and throughout the ductwork. If the blower motor fails, the fan won’t turn, nor will air enter the ductwork.

#4) Leaking Air Ducts

Another common cause of weak airflow is leaking air ducts. Research shows that up to 30% of all conditioned air in a typical home or building is lost due to leaking air ducts. If your air ducts are leaking, it may manifest in the form of weak airflow and higher utility bills.

#5) Clogged Air Filter

If you notice weak airflow when running your air conditioner or furnace, check the air filter. A clogged air filter is a common cause of weak airflow. The air filter is located near the blower. If it’s clogged – meaning it contains a heavy concentration of particulate matter – it will interfere with the blower’s ability to push air into the ductwork.

#6) Closed Dampers

For a zoned HVAC system, closed dampers may cause weak airflow. Dampers are valves that are used to control the flow of air throughout the ductwork. They are a defining characteristic of zoned HVAC systems. When closed, though, dampers will redirect air to specific areas of your home, which may cause poor airflow in other areas.

Liquid Slugging and AC Systems: What You Should Know

If you hear unusual noises coming from your air conditioning system, liquid slugging could be to blame. The compressor is an important part of all modern air conditioning systems. Located in the condenser unit – you can find the condenser unit outside of your home – the compressor is designed to increase the pressure of the refrigerant.

Refrigerant will travel from the evaporator coil to the condenser unit. Upon reaching the compressor, the refrigerant will compress, thus changing from a low-pressure gas to a high-pressure gas. Liquid slugging, however, may prevent this from occurring.

What Is Liquid Slugging?

Liquid slugging is a phenomenon in which liquid refrigerant enters the compressor. As it circulates throughout your air conditioning system, refrigerant will cycle between a liquid and gas state. It will be in a liquid state at the evaporator coil, and the refrigerant will change to a gas state upon exiting the evaporator coil and traveling to the condenser unit. Also known as compressor flooding, liquid slugging occurs when refrigerant in a liquid state enters the compressor.

How Liquid Slugging Can Affect Your AC System

It may sound relatively harmless, but liquid slugging is a serious problem. Compressors aren’t designed to handle fluids. Regardless of the specific type, all air conditioning system compressors are designed specifically to compress gas refrigerant. When exposed to liquid refrigerant, compressors may fail.

Your air conditioning system’s compressor may overheat from liquid slugging. It won’t be able to effectively remove heat from the liquid refrigerant. Therefore, the temperature of the compressor will increase.

Liquid slugging can completely destroy the compressor’s motor. The motor is the “heart” of a compressor. It provides the mechanical power needed to compress refrigerant. But compressor motors can fail when exposed to liquid refrigerant. Once the motor fails, your air conditioning system’s compressor will no longer work.

Your air conditioning system will perform poorly if it’s suffering from liquid slugging. The compressor is designed to compress the low-pressure refrigerant so that the condenser coil can remove the most heat from it. The compressor won’t be able to perform this task if there’s liquid refrigerant in it. Therefore, you may feel room temperature air coming out the vents.

Schedule an Appointment ASAP

If you believe your air conditioning system is suffering from liquid slugging, you should schedule an appointment with a heating, ventilation and cooling (HVAC) professional as soon as possible. In the meantime, don’t run your air conditioning system. The HVAC professional can inspect the compressor and your system to determine what’s causing the liquid slugging.

How Heat Pumps Achieve Over 100% Efficiency

It’s no secret that heat pumps are energy efficient. They are among the most energy-efficient heating, ventilation and cooling (HVAC) systems on the market. According to the U.S. Department of Energy (DOE), they consume half as much as energy as electric furnaces and baseboard heaters. You can save money by using a heat pump to heat your home during the winter.

When researching heat pumps, you may discover that they are over 100% efficient. Efficiency ratings can vary depending on many different factors. Nonetheless, many heat pumps are 200% to 300% efficient. How do heat pumps achieve over 100% efficiency exactly?

What Efficiency Means

To better understand how heat pumps achieve over 100% efficiency, you must familiarize yourself with the definition of “efficiency.” In the HVAC industry, efficiency is a measurement of how much hot or cool air a system can produce relative to the system’s energy consumption.

All HVAC systems consume energy to produce hot or cool air – and heat pumps are no exception. Efficiency represents the ratio of a system’s consumed energy to its thermal output. A gas furnace that’s 98% efficient, for instance, will convert 98% of the natural gas it consumes into heat. A heat pump that’s 300% efficient, on the other hand, will convert 300% of the electricity it consumes into heat.

Heat Pumps Extract Heat

Heat pumps achieve over 100% efficiency because they extract heat from the outdoors. This means they produce more heat relative to their energy consumption. A heat pump that’s 200% efficient will produce twice as much heat as the amount of energy it consumes.

The exceptionally high efficiency ratings of heat pumps can be attributed to their operations. They don’t produce heat directly from burning natural gas or powering an electric heating element. While gas furnaces and electric furnaces use these methods, heat pumps use an entirely different method to produce heat.

Heat pumps work by extracting heat from the outdoors. There are ground-sourced and air-sourced heat pumps. The former extracts heat from the ground, whereas the latter extracts heat from the air. Heat pumps operate like air conditioning systems, but the direction of their refrigerant can change to accommodate both cooling and heating.

Regardless of the specific source, heat pumps pull or extract heat from the outdoors. They still consume electricity, but they don’t directly convert this electricity. Heat pumps use electricity to extract heat from the outdoors, which allows for an efficiency of over 100%.

Why the Relief Valve on Your Water Heater Is Leaking

The relief valve is an important safety feature on most water heaters. Also known as a pressure relief valve, it’s designed to relieve excess pressure. Water heaters produce pressure as a byproduct of their operations. As they generate heat, the water will become warmer while simultaneously expanding. This thermal expansion creates pressure within the water heater. To relieve excess pressure, most water heaters are equipped with a relief valve.

When inspecting your water heater, you may notice that the relief valve is leaking. You may hear or see water dripping from it. The relief valve is typically connected to a discharge pipe or hose. Water will flow from your water heater to the discharge pipe or hose so that it can drain. What causes relief valves to leak exactly?

Overheating

Overheating may cause the relief valve to leak. It’s normal for relief valves to leak occasionally. After all, they are designed to relieve excess pressure – a process they perform by discharging some of the heated water out of the relief valve. But if your water heater is overheating, the relief valve may continue to leak.

Water heaters are designed to operate within a specific temperature range. Most modern water heaters, for instance, operate at a temperature of 90 to 120 degrees Fahrenheit. If your water heater exceeds this temperature, it will produce excess pressure that can manifest in the form of a leaking relief valve.

Stuck Open

The relief valve on your water heater may leak if it’s stuck open. Like most other valves, water heater relief valves can be open or closed. In the open position, water will flow out of the water heater and through the relief valve. In the closed position, water will remain trapped inside of the water heater.

Relief valves should change between an open and closed position automatically depending on the pressure to which they are exposed. Relief valves, though, can fail. If the relief valve on your water heater becomes stuck open, it will continue to leak.

Worn Seal

A leaking relief valve might be the result of a worn seal. The relief valve must feature a waterproof seal with your water heater and the discharge pipe or hose to which it’s connected. If the mating surface between any of these components has been compromised, the relief valve may leak.

If your water heater has a leaking relief valve, you should get it inspected by a professional. The leak may be a normal part of the relief valve’s operations, or it could be a sign of a more serious underlying problem.

5 Common Myths About Sealed Combustion Furnaces

Have you heard of sealed combustion furnaces? They’ve become a popular alternative to atmospheric furnaces. Both types of furnaces have a combustion chamber and heat exchanger. Only sealed combustion furnaces, however, pull in air from the outside. Atmospheric furnaces use the indoor air to absorb heat from the heat exchanger and, thus, warm the home. Below are five common myths about sealed combustion furnaces.

#1) Available in Electric Models

You won’t find sealed combustion furnaces available in electric models. Most of them use an electronic ignition to start up, but they all run on natural gas. They are known as “sealed combustion furnaces” because they use a sealed combustion process. They burn natural gas in a combustion chamber, and they pass hot combustion gases through a heat exchanger. The heat exchanger is sealed and not exposed to the surrounding indoor air.

#2) Doesn’t Dehumidify

Some homeowners assume that sealed combustion furnaces aren’t able to dehumidify the indoor air. If your home suffers from high humidity during the winter, though, you may want to use a sealed combustion furnace. It will both warm and dehumidify your home. A sealed combustion furnace will draw dry air from the outside, which it will use to absorb heat from the heat exchanger.

#3) Same as Condensing Furnaces

Sealed combustion furnaces aren’t necessarily the same as condensing furnaces. Condensing furnaces are characterized by the use of two heat exchangers. They pass the combustion gases through a second heat exchanger to squeeze out the maximum amount of heat. Most condensing furnaces are classified as sealed combustion gases, meaning they have two heat exchangers, but some of them only have a single heat exchanger.

#4) Less Efficient Than Atmospheric Furnaces

Sealed combustion furnaces are actually more efficient than atmospheric furnaces. Atmospheric furnaces rely on indoor air to absorb heat from the heat exchanger. An atmospheric furnace may draw warm indoor air away from living spaces to the heat exchanger, thus wasting energy. Sealed combustion furnaces don’t use indoor air. Instead, they use fresh air from the outdoors, resulting in greater efficiency.

#5) Not Safe to Use

You can rest assured knowing that sealed combustion furnaces are very safe to use. They are typically safer than atmospheric furnaces because they eliminate the possibility of backdraft. Backdraft is a phenomenon in which combustion gases enter a home’s living spaces rather than being expelled to the outdoors. Sealed combustion furnaces use a sealed combustion process with outdoor air, so they are protected from backdraft.

How to Regulate Indoor Humidity: A Homeowner’s Guide

If your home has a constantly high humidity level, you should take action to regulate it. Humidity and indoor airborne pollution go hand in hand. The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) recommends a relative humidity level of less than 60%. When airborne moisture levels creep above this limit, it can lead to mold growth.

Run the AC

Running your air conditioning system will lower your home’s humidity level. Condensation is a byproduct of air conditioning. When running your air conditioning system, warm air will flow over the evaporator coil. The refrigerant within the evaporator coil will absorb heat from this air, thereby creating condensation.

Your air conditioning system will dehumidify your home by pulling moisture out of the air and creating condensation. As long as you’re your air conditioning system, it will perform this dehumidification process.

Check the Condensate Drain

If you’re hoping to dehumidify your home by running your air conditioning system, you should check the condensate drain. The condensate drain is a drainage pipe that runs from the evaporator coil to your home’s exterior. It’s designed to flush condensation. Condensation will build up on the evaporator coil, after which it will drip onto a pan below. This pan contains the condensate drain.

A clogged condensate drain will prevent your air conditioning system from dehumidifying your home. When clogged, condensation will remain trapped. It will continue to build up inside of the pan without draining to your home’s exterior.

Install a Dehumidifier

You can always regulate your home’s humidity level by installing a dehumidifier. Dehumidifiers are devices that extract moisture vapor from the air. They are known as “dehumidifiers” because their sole purpose is to dehumidify the homes and spaces in which they are used.

There are different types of dehumidifiers. Some of them feature a tank or tray. After they’ve extracted enough moisture vapor from the air, you’ll have to empty the tank or tray. Other dehumidifiers feature or support a pump. The pump is connected to a motor, which automatically flushes the condensation through a drain line.

Seal Your Home

If high humidity is a problem in your home, you may need to seal your home. Poorly sealed homes often suffer from higher humidity than their properly sealed counterparts.

Unsealed door jambs, window frames and other spaces will allow moisture vapor to enter your home. Even if you run your conditioning system or a dehumidifier, it may not be enough to keep the humidity level under 60%. Rather, you’ll need to seal your home.

Why Gas Furnaces Still Need Electricity

Gas furnaces are one of the most popular types of central heating systems. According to the U.S. Energy Information Administration (EIA), nearly half of all homes in the United States rely on natural gas as their primary heating fuel. In comparison, only 36% of homes use electricity as their primary heating fuel.

Gas furnaces generate heat by burning natural gas in a combustion chamber. As they burn natural gas, they produce hot combustion gases that travel through a heat exchanger. The heat exchanger will then transfer some of this heat to the air moving over it, thus creating hot air. While they run on natural gas, however, gas furnaces still need electricity.

Electronic Ignition

One of the reasons gas furnaces still need electricity is to power the electronic ignition. In the past, gas furnaces used pilot lights. A pilot light is a small flame that ignites the natural gas within the furnace’s combustion chamber. But pilot lights have since been replaced with electronic ignitions.

Electronic ignitions are starters powered by electricity. They consist of a conductive metal probe. As electricity travels through the probe, it will heat up. Upon reaching an appropriate temperature, the probe will ignite the natural gas.

Blower Motor

The blower is also powered by electricity. Even if you have an old gas furnace with a pilot light, it won’t be able to warm your home unless it has electricity. The blower consists of a wheel and motor, the latter of which requires electricity.

If there’s a power outage in your home, the blower won’t be able to push air into the ductwork. Without electricity, the blower motor won’t spin, so neither your gas furnace nor your air conditioning system will work.

The Thermostat

Of course, you may not be able to adjust the thermostat to turn on a gas furnace if the power goes out as well. Thermostats are powered by electricity. Many of them rely solely on external electricity. When the power goes out, they’ll turn off.

With that said, there are some thermostats that feature backup power in the form of batteries. They are designed to automatically switch over to the batteries in the event of a power outage.

In Conclusion

Many homeowners are surprised to discover that they can’t use their gas furnace during a power outage. Gas furnaces may run on natural gas, but they still require electricity. They use electricity for the electronic ignition, blower motor and thermostat.

How to Prevent Your Tankless Water Heater From Freezing

If you own a tankless water heater, you’ll need to take precautions to prevent it from freezing when the temperature drops below 32 degrees Fahrenheit. Also known as inline water heaters, tankless water heaters are designed to heat water on demand. Turning on a hot water faucet, for instance, will activate them.

They may not have a tank, but tankless water heaters can still freeze during the winter. Freezing, of course, can cause serious damage. As the ice within a tankless water heater begins to melt, it will expand. This expansion can rupture the tankless water heater or the water lines to which it’s connected.

Insulate It

Insulating your tankless water heater will better protect it from freezing. If there’s little or no insulation around it, your tankless water heater will be exposed to cooler temperatures. Whether your tankless water heater is installed in the basement, crawl space, garage or elsewhere, you should check to ensure it’s properly insulated. If you discover any open and exposed areas, fill them with insulation.

Let the Hot Water Drip at Night

You can protect your tankless water heater from freezing by allowing the hot water to drip at night. You don’t have to completely open a faucet. Rather, a small trickle of about 0.2 gallons per minute (GPM) should suffice. Just remember to let the hot water drip and not the cold water. Allowing the hot water to drip – even at just 0.2 GPM – will keep water moving through your tankless water heater.

Wrap Lines With Heat Tape

Another way to protect your tankless water heater from freezing is to wrap the water lines with heat tape. Heat tape is a type of conductive wire that’s designed to warm water lines. You can use it on the water lines coming into and going out of your tankless water heater.

Choose the Right Tankless Water Heater

Some tankless water heaters are better protected against freezing than others. If you’re worried about freezing, choose a tankless water heater with a freeze protection feature.

A freeze protection feature is a system that, as the name suggests, is designed to prevent tankless waters from freezing. They typically leverage an electric heating element. As the temperature begins to drop, the freeze protection feature will activate. The tankless water heater will then use an electric heating element to warm itself.

Keep in mind that tankless water heaters can only activate their freeze protection feature if they have power. Without power, they will remain susceptible to freezing. If the power in your home goes out, for instance, your tankless water heater may freeze.

The Impact of a Dirty Blower Dirty Wheel: What You Should

Does your heating, ventilation and cooling (HVAC) system have a dirty blower wheel? Blower wheels will accumulate dust and debris. Even if you regularly change your HVAC system’s air filter, you may be dealing with a dirty blower wheel.

What Is the Blower Wheel?

The blower wheel is a wheel-shaped part that acts as a main fan in an HVAC system. It’s powered by a motor. When your HVAC system turns on, the motor will spin the blower wheel. This spinning motion will force conditioned air into the ductwork so that it can be distributed throughout the rooms in your home.

Weak Airflow

A dirty blower dirty wheel can lead to weak airflow. Airflow is heavily influenced by the speed at which the blower wheel spins. The faster it spins, the stronger the airflow will be. A fast-spinning blower wheel will push conditioned air into the ductwork more quickly than a slow-spinning blower wheel.

Your HVAC system’s blower wheel may spin more slowly if it’s dirty. A study conducted by researchers at Texas A&M found that HVAC systems with a clean blower wheel have 30% stronger airflow than those with a dirty blower wheel.

Indoor Air Pollution

For a clean home with minimal indoor air pollution, you’ll need to maintain a clean dirty blower wheel. The air filter won’t catch all of the airborne pollutants in your home. Some pollutants will make their way past the air filter where they accumulate on the blower wheel.

Cleaning the blower wheel will prevent these pollutants from traveling through the ductwork and into your home’s rooms. The blower wheel will spin more quickly and cleanly.

Blower Lifespan

To make your HVAC system’s blower last, you’ll need to clean the wheel. Blowers don’t last forever. Like most other HVAC parts, most of them will eventually fail. The motor, for instance, may burn out.

Burned-out motors are often attributed to a dirty blower wheel. A dirty blower wheel will force the motor to work. This increased load can take a toll on the motor, potentially causing it to burn out.

Frozen Evaporator Coil

A dirty blower wheel may even result in a frozen evaporator coil. Evaporator coils are air conditioning system heat exchangers. They are found near the furnace. The refrigerant within your air conditioning system’s evaporator coil will absorb heat from the adjacent air.

If you have a dirty blower wheel, though, the evaporator coil may freeze. The dirty blower wheel will promote weak airflow. And if there’s not enough warm air flowing over the evaporator coil, it may freeze.

Why the Winter Is the Perfect Time of Year for a New AC System

You don’t have to wait until the summer arrives to invest in a new air conditioning system. Whether your current air conditioning system has failed, or if you’re simply looking to upgrade to a more energy-efficient model, you may want to schedule an installation service during the winter. There are several advantages to investing in a new air conditioning system during the winter.

Year-Round Cooling

Some regions require year-round cooling. Georgia and the surrounding Southern states, for instance, have mild winters with few or no days on which the temperature drops below freezing. They may even experience some warm days during the winter that call for air conditioning. Investing in a new air conditioning system during the winter will provide you and your family with year-round cooling.

Identify Problems Early                                                                                                       

Purchasing a new air conditioning system during the winter will allow you to identify, as well as fix, problems early – before they turn into bigger and more costly problems. The technician will inspect the blower and ductwork when installing it. If there are any problems with the blower or ductwork, the technician can fix them

Faster Installation

Another reason to consider buying a new air conditioning system during the winter is faster installation. There’s typically less demand for new air conditioning systems during the winter as opposed to the summer. There may be a backlog of homeowners looking to have an air conditioning system installed during the summer. The cool winter weather, conversely, results in fewer installation services booked. And less demand translates into faster installation during the winter.

Protect Against Humidity Damage

You can protect your home from humidity damage by running the air conditioning system during the winter. If it’s warm outside, you may want to run the air conditioning system. Doing so will remove moisture vapor from the air while lowering your home’s humidity. Investing in a new air conditioning system during the winter will provide you to dehumidify your home when the weather is mild or warm.

Ensures Your Home Is Ready for Summer

Taking a proactive approach towards a new air conditioning system will prepare your home for summer. Georgia is known for its hot summers. Rather than waiting until the summer arrives, you can prepare your home in advance by investing in a new air conditioning system.

Don’t assume that summer is the best time of year to buy a new air conditioning system. You can buy a new air conditioning system any time of the year, including the winter.

5 Ways Condensing Furnaces Differ From Traditional Gas Furnaces

Condensing furnaces have become a popular alternative to traditional gas furnaces. They still run on natural gas, and they still use a similar combustion process to convert this fuel into heat. Condensing furnaces, however, feature different equipment while offering high Annual Fuel Utilization Efficiency (AFUE) ratings. Here are five ways that condensing furnaces differ from traditional gas furnaces.

#1) Heat Exchangers

When inspecting a condensing furnace, you may notice that it has two heat exchangers. Traditional gas furnaces have a single heat exchanger. As they burn natural gas and air, the hot exhaust gases will pass through the heat exchanger. Condensing furnaces have two heat exchangers. After passing through the first exchanger, the hot exhaust gases will pass through a second heat exchanger to remove more heat.

#2) Condensation

There’s a reason they are called “condensing furnaces.” While traditional gas furnaces produce little or no moisture, condensing furnaces produce a fair amount of moisture. Some of them can produce over 5 gallons of water per day.

Condensation occurs with the second heat exchanger. Condensing furnaces squeeze nearly all of the heat out of the exhaust gases at the second heat exchanger. A byproduct of this heat-exchanging process is condensing – and lots of it.

#3) Efficiency

Condensing furnaces are more efficient than traditional gas furnaces. Traditional gas furnaces are typically around 80% efficient, meaning they convert about 80% of their fuel into heat. Condensing furnaces, in comparison, are up to 97% efficient. With two heat exchangers, they can convert nearly all of the natural gas they burn into heat.

#4) Maintenance

They might be more efficient than traditional gas furnaces, but condensing furnaces require more work to maintain. You’ll have to ensure the condensate drain remains clear. The condensate drain is the line that flushes condensation from the furnace to your home’s exterior. If it becomes clogged with mildew or debris, moisture may pool up around the furnace.

#5) Price

Furnace prices vary depending on many different factors, but condensing furnaces typically cost more than traditional gas furnaces. If you’re looking to upgrade your home’s central heating system on a budget, you may want to stick with a traditional gas furnace. For maximum efficiency, though, there’s no better choice than a condensing furnace.

A condensing furnace may even save you money in the long run. You can expect lower heating costs during the winter. With a condensing furnace installed, you won’t have to use as much natural gas to heat your home. Therefore, you’ll save money on heating costs.

Is Your Furnace Noisy? Here’s What You Should Know

A noisy furnace is more than just a nuisance; it may indicate a serious problem with your home’s central heating system. To protect your furnace from premature wear and tear, you should listen to it. The following noises may indicate an underlying problem that requires immediate attention.

Rattling Noise

A rattling noise typically means something is loose. It may be something as simple as a loose panel. If there’s a removable panel on your furnace that’s loose, you may hear a rattling noise. Alternatively, a rattling noise may indicate one or more loose fasteners. Furnaces, as well as the blowers with which they are used, contain many different fasteners. And it only takes a single loose fastener to create a rattling noise.

Banging Noise

If you hear a banging noise when your furnace initially turns on, you may be dealing with a broken or cracked heat exchanger. Gas furnaces use a heat exchanger to create warm air. They burn natural gas in a combustion chamber, which in turn creates hot exhaust gases. The hot exhaust gases then travel through a sealed heat exchanger that’s exposed to a blower.

Heat exchangers may crack. Rather than offering a sealed environment for the hot exhaust gases, a cracked heat exchanger will allow these gases to leak. You may hear a loud banging noise each time your furnace turns on if it has a cracked heat exchanger.

Grinding Noise

Furnaces often make grinding noises as well. If you hear a grinding noise when running your furnace, you may want to get the blower professionally inspected. A faulty blower wheel can manifest in the form of a grinding noise.

The blower wheel, of course, is the main, circular-shaped part of a blower. As it turns, it will force air into the ductwork. If the blower wheel has become misaligned or otherwise not properly positioned, you may hear a grinding noise when running your furnace.

Whistling Noise

Your furnace may make a whistling noise if there’s an airflow problem. A dirty air filter can manifest in the form of a whistling noise. Little or no air will be able to pass through the dirty air filter, so you may hear a whistling noise originating from this area.

Another potential source of a whistling noise is an air duct leak. If there’s a hole in an air duct, you may hear a whistling noise as the air leaks out of it.

5 Common Heat Pump Problems You Need to Know

Heat pumps have become increasingly popular among Georgia homeowners in recent years. They are complete central heating, ventilation and cooling (HVAC) systems that work by pumping heat. A heat pump can warm your home by transferring heat from the outdoors to the indoors. A heat pump can cool your home, conversely, by transferring heat from the indoors to the outdoors. If you’re thinking about buying a heat pump, though, there are several problems of which you should be aware.

#1) Stuck in Heating or Cooling Mode

Whether ground source or air source, heat pumps may get stuck in a particular mode. They can get stuck in heating mode, or they can get stuck in cooling mode. This is typically the result of a faulty reversing valve. If the reversing valve fails, the heat pump won’t be able to change the direction of its refrigerant, so it will remain stuck in heating or cooling mode.

#2) Frozen Outdoor Unit

The outdoor unit of a heat pump may become frozen. Like air conditioning systems, heat pumps have an indoor unit and an outdoor unit. When the outdoor temperature drops below 32 degrees Fahrenheit, the latter may become frozen. Heat pumps are designed with a defrost mode to prevent the outdoor unit from becoming frozen. If the defrost mode fails to turn on, though, the outdoor unit may become frozen.

#3) Short Cycling

Heat pumps can succumb to short cycling. Short cycling is a phenomenon in which an HVAC system – an air conditioning system, furnace or heat pump – heats or cools an indoor space too quickly. It’s known as “short cycling” because it involves the HVAC system cycling on and off frequently. Choosing an HVAC system that’s too big for your home may result in short cycling. Alternatively, heat pumps may short cycle due to a dirty air filter.

#4) Dirty Coils

Speaking of dirt, dirty coils is a common heat pump problem. Heat pumps resemble air conditioning systems. They feature two units, and each of these units has a coil within it. Over time, debris may accumulate on a heat pump’s coils. If not cleaned, dirty coils will restrict the heat pump’s ability to transfer heat.

#5) Blown Capacitor

A blown capacitor is a common problem from which heat pumps suffer. Most heat pumps have two separate capacitors: start and run. They use the start capacitor to turn on, and they use the run capacitor to continue running. A blown capacitor will prevent the heat pump from starting or running.

The Benefits of a Direct-Drive Blower

The blower is an important part of a residential heating, ventilation and cooling (HVAC) system. Consisting of a motor and fan, it’s responsible for circulating conditioned air into the ductwork. When your furnace or air conditioning system turns on, the blower will activate. It will blow the warm or cool air into the ductwork so that your home maintains a comfortable indoor temperature.

If you currently have a belt-drive blower, though, you may want to upgrade to a direct-drive blower. Belt-drive and direct-drive blowers are both designed to circulate conditioned air, but the latter doesn’t require a belt. What are the benefits of a direct-drive blower exactly?

Saves Space

Since they don’t require a belt, direct-drive blowers take up less space. They can fit into smaller spaces than their belt-drive counterparts. Air Handling Units (AHUs) are commonly used to house blowers. Direct-drive blowers are smaller, so they can fit into many small AHUs that may not support larger belt-drive blowers.

Less Maintenance

Direct-drive blowers require less maintenance than belt-drive blowers. They have fewer parts, meaning there are fewer parts to maintain. Direct-drive blowers still have a fan and motor – just like belt-drive fans. The difference is that direct-drive blowers feature a fan connected directly to the motor. In comparison, belt-drive blowers feature a fan connected to a belt that’s connected to the motor.

Reliability

Direct-drive blowers are more reliable than belt-drive blowers. Blowers can succumb to mechanical failure. And if the blower fails, your HVAC system won’t be able to cool or warm your home. Fortunately, direct-drive blowers are highly reliable. They use a simple design in which the fan is directly connected to the motor, hence the name “direct-drive blower.”

If you’re experiencing problems with your HVAC system’s belt-drive blower, upgrading to a direct-drive blower may be the answer. It’s a simpler, more reliable type of blower that’s better protected against failure.

Efficiency

You might be surprised to learn that direct-drive blowers are more efficient than belt-drive blowers. Whether direct drive or belt drive, nearly all new blowers are more efficient than old blowers. For maximum efficiency, though, you should choose a direct-drive blower.

Direct-drive blowers are more efficient than belt-drive blowers because they don’t lose energy from friction. Both types of blowers consume energy to turn the fan, but belt-drive blowers lose some of their energy during this conversion process through friction. The friction of the belt makes them less efficient than direct drive blowers.

Protecting Your Gas Fireplace From Soot: What You Should Know

Have you noticed soot in your gas fireplace? Maybe it’s sticking to the sides of the firebox, or perhaps it’s covering the glass screen or door. Soot deposits such as this aren’t limited to wood-burning fireplaces; they can occur with gas fireplaces as well. By understanding what causes soot, however, you can better protect your gas fireplace from this phenomenon.

What Is Soot?

Soot consists of the byproducts of incomplete combustion. Both wood-burning fireplaces and gas fireplaces rely on combustion. Wood-burning fireplaces create combustion by burning wood, whereas gas fireplaces create combustion by burning natural gas (or propane gas). When a fireplace fails to convert all of its respective fuel into heat via combustion, it will produce soot.

Common Causes of Soot in Gas Fireplaces

Soot can occur in gas fireplaces for different reasons. Neglecting to clean your gas fireplace’s burner assembly, for instance, may result in soot. Burner assemblies contain ports that release natural gas. Over time, some of these ports may get clogged with dust and debris. And the next time you turn on your gas fireplace, the dust and debris may burn while subsequently producing soot.

Failure to clean your gas logs can result in soot buildup as well. Most homeowners don’t use their gas fireplaces during the summer months. Rather, they wait until the cooler months of the year to use it. This means most gas fireplaces go for long periods – typically about six months – without being used.

If it’s been several months or longer since you last used your gas fireplace, you may want to clean your gas logs before starting it. The logs may look clean, but chances are they contain dust and debris. Dust and debris suffer from poor combustion. They don’t burn as completely as wood or natural gas.

Poorly positioned gas logs may result in soot. You can typically place wood logs just about anywhere in a wood-burning fireplace. Gas logs, though, require a proper placement so that the burner assembly’s flame will rise up and through them. If they obstruct the burner assembly, your gas fireplace may not work – or it may create a small flame and a lot of soot.

In Conclusion

If you’re tired of dealing with soot, you should get your gas fireplace professionally serviced. A complete service will cover many of the common causes of soot. The technician will check the burner assembly, clean the gas logs and position the gas logs for optimal combustion.

What Causes Air Ducts to Leak?

You can expect higher heating and cooling costs if your home has leaky air ducts. According to Energy Star, in fact, approximately 20% of a typical home’s conditioned air is lost through leaky air ducts. It won’t necessarily affect your furnace’s or air conditioning system’s ability to create conditioned air. Nonetheless, leaky air ducts will force these systems to run for longer, resulting in higher heating and cooling costs.

Loose Fittings

Loose fittings can cause air ducts to leak. Fittings are used to connect air ducts. There are elbow fittings, for instance, that connect air ducts around turns, and there are branch fittings that connect a single air duct to two air ducts. Regardless, if a fitting comes loose, it may create a leak that allows conditioned air to escape.

Pests

If your home has a pest infestation, you may experience leaky air ducts. Air ducts are insulated, which many common household pests use as bedding material. Mice, squirrels, possums and raccoons may create nests out of air duct insulation. As they tear apart your air ducts, they’ll inevitably create leaks.

High Humidity

High humidity can cause your air ducts to leak. All homes have at least some humidity. Humidity is airborne moisture vapor, and here in the Southeast, there’s always some moisture vapor in the air. But if your home has excessively high humidity, it may cause your air ducts to leak. All of the moisture vapor in the air will saturate your air ducts, which can lead to damage that manifests in the form of a leak.

Closed Air Vents

Another common cause of leaky air ducts is closed air vents. If you close most or all of the air vents in your home, it will increase the ductwork pressure. And too much pressure can cause leaks. Closing a few air vents typically isn’t a concern, but you shouldn’t close too many air vents. Otherwise, the ductwork pressure may increase to the point where it causes a leak.

Age

Sometimes air ducts leak due to age. Most air ducts have a lifespan of about 10 to 15 years. If your air ducts are approaching the one-decade mark, you may want to replace them. Even if they aren’t leaking now, they may begin to leak soon. Air ducts degrade over time, and they will eventually begin to leak. Buying new air ducts is a smart investment that will minimize the risk of costly leaks.

How to Avoid Emergency Furnace Repairs

When you set the thermostat to heat on an otherwise cold winter evening, you probably expect your furnace to turn on. Furnaces are central heating systems. They consume energy – typically natural gas or electricity – to generate heat. But like all heating systems, furnaces can fail. You can avoid emergency furnace repairs, however, by taking some precautions.

Check the Vents

You should the air vents in your home to ensure they are open. Closing a few air vents may have little or no effect on your furnace’s performance. Closing too many air vents, though, will force your furnace to work harder. Your furnace will have to run for a longer length of time, thus exposing it to additional wear and tear. To avoid emergency furnace repairs, try to keep most of the air vents open.

Get an Annual Inspection

Don’t underestimate the importance of an annual furnace inspection. Most manufacturers, as well as heating, ventilation and cooling (HVAC) professionals, recommend an annual inspection. It will give you peace of mind knowing that your furnace is working as intended. If there’s a problem with your furnace, the inspection may reveal it. You can then fix these problems before they leave you and your family without heat.

Go Easy on the Temperature Setting

To protect your furnace from premature failure, go easy on the temperature setting. Jacking up the temperature on the thermostat will result in your furnace running for a longer length of time. And the longer your furnace runs, the more wear and tear it will be exposed to. To avoid emergency furnace repairs, choose a moderate temperature setting that’s still warm but not too hot.

Maintain a Clean Air Filter

Another tip to protect against emergency furnace repairs is to maintain a clean air filter. If the air filter is dirty, your furnace will have to work harder. It will run for a longer length of time, which as previously mentioned, will expose your furnace to more wear and tear. If the air filter dirty, remove it and replace it with a new air filter of the same size.

Consider Replacing

You may want to replace your furnace. Older furnaces are more likely to fail than their newer counterparts. Over time, the heating element and other components in a furnace will degrade. Eventually, these parts may break while subsequently rendering the furnace inoperable. If your furnace is older than 10 years, you may want to replace it.

Help! My Furnace Air Filter Won’t Stay in Place

Can’t seem to keep your furnace air filter in place? Most furnaces feature a dedicated slot for the air filter. Located near the blower, it plays an essential role in cleaning indoor air. Conditioned air will flow through this slot before entering the ductwork. The air filter in this slot will remove dust, dander, pollen, mold and other contaminants from the air.

Even if you installed it correctly, though, the air filter may not stay in place. It may fall out of your furnace’s slot, or the air filter may get sucked into the ductwork.

Check the Size

If your furnace air filter won’t stay in place, you should check the size. Air filters are available in different sizes. The size of an air filter is represented by three numbers. The first number is the air filter’s length. The second number is the air filter’s width. The third number is the air filter’s depth. A 14X20X1 air filter, for instance, is 14 inches long, 20 inches wide and 1 inch deep.

Different furnaces support air filters of different sizes. Using the wrong size may result in your air filter falling out. If it’s too small, it will fit loosely in your furnace’s slot. The air filter may then fall out.

Consider the Static Pressure

Assuming the air filter is the right size for your furnace, it shouldn’t fall out. If it continues to fall out, negative static pressure could be to blame.

Static pressure is air resistance. If there’s too much negative static pressure in the ductwork, it may create a strong pulling force on the air filter. It will pull the air filter into the ductwork. Rather than staying in your furnace’s slot, the air filter will get pulled into the adjacent ductwork.

Change the Air Filter

Dirty air filters may not stay in place. Air filters work by catching particular matter in the air. As air flows through them, the filters will catch and hold particulate matter.

Air filters don’t last forever. The longer an air filter goes unchanged, the more debris it will contain. All of this particulate matter-based debris may then restrict the flow of air. When you turn on your furnace, the dirty air filter may move around due to all of this debris. For proper airflow, try to get into the habit of changing the air filter in your furnace once every few months.