Why Your Gas Fireplace Is Beeping (and What You Should Do About It)

Upon hearing an unfamiliar beeping sound, many homeowners assume a smoke detector or carbon monoxide (CO) detector is to blame. Smoke and CO detectors are battery powered. As their batteries begin to die, they’ll beep. But unfamiliar beeping noises aren’t limited to smoke detectors or CO detectors. Gas fireplaces can beep as well.

Backup Ignition Module

Your gas fireplace may beep if it features a battery-powered backup ignition module. Many newer gas fireplaces don’t require manual lighting. Rather, they feature an electronic ignition system. When turned on, they draw electricity to create a spark, which then ignites the natural gas.

The problem with electronic ignition systems, though, is that they are susceptible to power outages. If the power goes out in your home, you won’t be able to use your gas fireplace – at least not with the electronic ignition system. Some gas fireplaces are designed with a battery-powered backup ignition module as an alternative ignition method. They will draw electricity from a set of batteries to create a spark.

If the batteries in a backup ignition module begin to die, the gas fireplace may beep. Therefore, you should consider replacing the batteries if you hear a beeping sound originating from your gas fireplace. Most backup ignition modules require two D-cell batteries. Removing the old batteries and replacing them with new batteries should eliminate the beeping sound.

Remote Control

Your gas fireplace may beep due to a dying remote control. Some gas fireplaces are remote-controlled. You turn them on and off – as well as adjust the size of the flame – via a remote. If the batteries in the remote are about to die, you may hear a beeping noise.

Like with a backup ignition module, you can replace the batteries in the remote to eliminate the beeping sound. New batteries should disable the beeping noise.

Keep in mind that the receiver box may contain batteries as well. The receiver box is designed to receive the signals sent by the remote. When you press a button on the remote, it will send a signal to the receiver box. Receiver boxes may contain their own batteries. And if the batteries in the receiver box are about to die, you may hear a beeping noise.

Gas fireplaces can beep for different reasons, most of which involve dead or dying batteries. If you hear a beeping noise, you should check the backup ignition module, the remote and the receiver box.

Balancing Dampers: A Cost-Effective Solution for Pressure Balancing Problems

When researching dampers for your heating, ventilation and cooling (HVAC) system’s ductwork, you may encounter balancing dampers. They offer a simple and cost-effective solution for pressure balancing problems. If one room in your home has higher air pressure than another room in your home, you may want to install a balancing damper. It can “balance” the pressure between the two rooms while simultaneously improving your HVAC system’s performance.

What Are Balancing Dampers?

Balancing dampers are valve-like air control devices that are used for pressure balancing purposes. They are installed directly in the ductwork – typically between two rooms with different pressure.

Most balancing dampers feature a set of horizontal blades. HVAC technicians can open or close these blades to regulate airflow. HVAC technicians will first measure the pressure of the two rooms. Using this information, they will adjust the balancing damper’s blades to balance the pressure between the two rooms.

With balancing dampers, HVAC technicians can eliminate pressure balancing problems. They can install the balancing dampers between rooms with uneven pressure. After adjusting the balancing dampers, the rooms will experience even pressure.

Other Types of Dampers

In addition to balancing dampers, there are other types of dampers. Control dampers look like balancing dampers. The difference is that control dampers are used in zoned HVAC systems to allow or restrict the flow of air through a ductwork conduit, whereas balancing dampers are used to balance the air between two rooms.

There are also butterfly dampers. Butterfly dampers receive their namesake from their butterfly-shaped blades. They don’t feature the same horizontal blades as balancing dampers and control dampers. Instead, butterfly dampers feature a pair of large panels that open and close like the wings of a butterfly.

Do You Need Balancing Dampers?

Unless your home suffers from pressure balancing problems, you typically won’t need to install any balancing dampers. Balancing dampers are used specifically to create even, consistent pressure between two rooms.

With uneven or inconsistent pressure, your HVAC system may struggle to warm and cool your home. Some rooms may feel noticeably warmer or cooler than others. Not only will this create an uncomfortable living space for you and your family, but pressure balancing problems such as this can lead to higher utility costs.

If you believe your home suffers from pressure balancing problems, you should get your HVAC system inspected by a professional. The HVAC technician may recommend one or more balancing dampers.

How to Maintain Your Water Heater’s Expansion Tank

If your water heater is equipped with an expansion tank, you’ll need to maintain it. Even with the rise of tankless water heaters, millions of homes throughout the United States use a traditional tank-based water heater. Tank-based water heaters feature a large water tank. Some of them, however, may feature a smaller tank as well. Known as an expansion tank, you’ll need to maintain it to protect it from premature wear and tear.

Overview of Expansion Tanks and How They Work

An expansion tank is a small tank that’s used to hold expanded, pressurized water. Heat causes things to expand. Water heaters, of course, expose water to heat. Some of them feature a gas-powder burner assembly, whereas other water heaters feature an electric heating element. Regardless, they will heat the water in the large tank.

As the water in the large tank becomes warmer, it will expand. Some homes have an open water system that allows the expanded water to recede back into the water line. But other homes have a closed water system. A closed water system means water can enter the home, but it can’t leave the home. Homes with a closed water system such as this typically require an expansion tank for their tank-based water heaters.

Inspect for Corrosion

You should regularly inspect the expansion tank for signs of corrosion. Expansion tanks are available in different materials. Some of them are made of stainless steel, whereas others are made of aluminum or even copper. Over time, expansion tanks may corrode. As the water inside of them oxidizes with the material from which they are made, corrosion will occur.

Test the Pressure

Another essential form of maintenance is testing the pressure. All expansion tanks are designed to hold expanded, pressurized water. Water expands as it heats up, thus increasing the pressure of the water. Expansion tanks, though, are designed for a specific amount of pressure measured in pounds per square inch (PSI). Your expansion tank may have a PSI rating of 20 to 40. You can test the pressure to ensure it matches the PSI rating.

Get It Professionally Serviced

Even if you’re able to test the pressure yourself, you should still get your expansion tank – as well as your water heater itself – professionally serviced. Professional water heater services involve a more thorough inspection and test to ensure that everything is working as intended. Investing in an annual water heater service can help you avoid more costly problems with your water heater or expansion tank later down the road.

How Humidity Affects Your Ductwork

Humidity can affect more than just your hair and skin; it can take a toll on your ductwork. All homes have at least some humidity. Humidity is defined as airborne moisture. More specifically, relative humidity is the percentage of moisture vapor in the air relative to the air’s current temperature. While some humidity is completely normal and even beneficial, high humidity can affect your ductwork in the following ways.

Mold Growth

Humidity can lead to mold growth inside of your ductwork. The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) says that indoor environments with a relative humidity of 60% or higher are susceptible to mold growth. If your home’s relative humidity exceeds this limit, it may succumb to mold growth. Mold may grow inside of the ductwork where it’s able to “feast” on dust.

Leaks

If your ductwork is leaking, humidity could be to blame. Air ducts are designed to be sealed so that all of the conditioned air produced by the furnace and air conditioning system will be vented into the home’s living spaces. But air ducts can sustain damage that causes them to leak conditioned air into attics, walls, crawlspaces and elsewhere.

Allowing humidity to go unchecked can place your air ducts at risk for leaks. As moisture vapor builds up inside of your ductwork, it will saturate the inner walls of the ducts. Assuming your heating, ventilation and cooling (HVAC) system uses flexible air ducts – the most common type for residential HVAC systems – it may leak. The moisture vapor will essentially weaken the walls of the ducts, and the next time your blower turns on, they may begin to leak.

Poor Cooling Performance

Your air conditioning system may struggle to cool your home if there’s too much moisture vapor in the air. Air conditioning systems work by removing heat from the air inside of homes. They will absorb heat at your HVAC system’s evaporator coil, and they will release this heat at the condenser coil. As a byproduct of this heat exchange process, they will also remove moisture vapor from the air.

High humidity will strain your air conditioning system. Your air conditioning system may have to run for a longer period to cool your home. The condensate drain may line may also become clogged. Air conditioning systems have a condensate drain line, which they use to flush water from the evaporator coil to the exterior of homes. High humidity will result in more water running through this line, thus increasing the risk of a clog.

6 Key Differences Between Gas and Electric Furnaces

One of the most important things to consider when choosing a furnace is the fuel type. All furnaces generate heat by consuming fuel. While some furnaces run on natural gas, though, others run on electricity. Aside from using different types of fuel, there are several key differences between gas and electric furnaces.

#1) Heating Speed

Gas furnaces are typically faster than electric furnaces. They can heat the homes in which they are used more quickly. They will burn natural gas and air to produce hot combustion gases. Regardless, you can use a gas furnace to quickly heat your home.

#2) Efficiency

Different furnaces have different efficiency ratings. You can refer to a furnace’s Annual Fuel Utilization Efficiency (AFUE) rating for insight into its efficiency. Bu gas furnaces – especially condensing gas furnaces – are oftentimes more efficient than electric furnaces. They will convert more of their fuel (gas) into heat.

#3) Noise

Another difference between gas and electric furnaces is the noise. Neither gas nor electric furnaces are completely silent. They will both produce at least some noise during use. Electric furnaces, however, typically have a quieter operation than gas furnaces.

#4) Installation

Electric furnaces are easier to install than gas furnaces. You should always get new heating, ventilation and cooling (HVAC) equipment installed by a professional technician. Since they only run on electricity, though, electric furnaces are easier to install. Technicians don’t have to connect them to a gas supply line, nor do they have to set up an exhaust system for the flue gases. As a result, many technicians charge lower prices for electric furnace installation services.

#5) Maintenance

Both gas and electric furnaces require maintenance. You’ll need to change the air filter once every few months, and you should get them professionally inspected at least once a year. If you choose a gas furnace, you’ll also need to install and maintain carbon monoxide (CO) detectors in your home. If the heat exchanger cracks, CO may leak out of the gas furnace and into your home.

#6) Heating Power

Gas furnaces typically offer more heating power than electric furnaces. They can produce more heat thanks to their use of combustion. In Georgia and the surrounding Southeast, an electric furnace will typically suffice. Even in the middle of winter, a high-quality electric furnace will produce more than enough heat to create a comfortable living space. But homeowners who live in cooler regions may want to choose a gas furnace, instead.

5 Common Problems With Electric Furnaces

Many homeowners prefer electric furnaces over gas furnaces. They don’t require a gas supply, are easier to maintain and are very safe. But electric furnaces can still fail. If you have an electric furnace, you should be aware of the following problems.

#1) Heating Element Failure

Electric furnaces use a heating element to produce heat. It’s the equivalent of a burner assembly in a gas furnace. While burner assemblies burn natural gas and air, though, heating elements do not. Heating elements work by drawing electricity through coils. As electricity travels through an electric furnace’s heating element, the heating element will heat up.

#2) Bad Capacitor

If an electric furnace won’t turn on, it may be suffering from capacitor failure. Most electric furnaces have a starting capacitor. This otherwise small part plays a big role in its operations. The starting capacitor will provide the electric furnace with an initial jolt of electricity to turn on. Capacitors can go bad. A bad capacitor will no longer provide the electric furnace with the electricity it needs to turn on.

#3) Loose Electrical Connection

A loose electrical connection is a common problem with electric furnaces. Something as simple as a loose wire may prevent an electric furnace from working. Heating, ventilation and cooling (HVAC) equipment produces vibrations. Over time, these vibrations may lead to loose wires. And it only takes a single loose wire to interfere with an electric furnace’s operations.

#4) Blown Blower Motor

Like gas furnaces, electric furnaces work in conjunction with a blower. Blowers consist of motorized fans that circulate air. The motors that power them, though, may blow. Blown motors are typically the result of mechanical failure or overheating. The bearings or other parts within a motor may fail. And if the blower motor no longer works, the electric furnace to which it’s connected won’t work, either.

#5) Clogged Air Filter

Both air conditioning systems and furnaces use an air filter. They typically use the same air filter, which is found inside of the furnace. After cooling or warming the air, the blower will draw air through the air and into the ductwork.

Air filters must be regularly changed. Regardless of the material from which it’s made, no air filter lasts forever. They will eventually become clogged with so much dirt and airborne debris that they restrict airflow. Clogged air filters are a common problem with electric furnaces. An electric furnace may heat up, but air won’t be able to travel over the heating element if the air filter is clogged.

Why Your Thermostat Is Showing the Wrong Temperature

Is your thermostat showing the wrong temperature? Thermostats control the heating, ventilation and cooling (HVAC) systems with which they are used. Your air conditioning system and furnace – or heat pump – will turn on and turn off depending on the temperature displayed by the thermostat.

Thermostats, of course, display the ambient room temperature. Your furnace will turn on if the ambient room temperature drops below the temperature for which you set the thermostat. And your air conditioning system will turn on if the ambient room temperature rises above the temperature for which you set the thermostat. Thermostats may not show the correct ambient room temperature. Rather, they may show the wrong temperature in the following circumstances.

Poorly Placed Thermostat

The placement of your thermostat can affect its ability to sense, as well as show, the correct ambient room temperature. All thermostats rely on a sensor to measure the ambient room temperature. With the exception of smart thermostats, most models feature a built-in sensor. They will use this sensor to constantly measure the surrounding temperature.

Different areas of your home, however, may have different ambient temperatures. Attics and crawlspaces may be cooler during the winter and warmer during the summer than the rest of your home. Walls near heat-generating appliances like ovens and fireplaces may also be warmer than the rest of your home. If your thermostat is placed in one of these areas, it may show a temperature that’s different than your home’s true ambient temperature.

Faulty Sensor

Even if your thermostat is placed in the right area, a faulty sensor may result in it showing the wrong temperature. Temperature sensors can fail. Most thermostats use an electro-mechanical sensor. These electro-mechanical sensors can rust and degrade over time. And eventually, they may fail.

If your thermostat has a faulty temperature sensor, it may show the wrong temperature. You may notice a temperature that’s higher or lower than your home’s true ambient temperature. Alternatively, your thermostat may not show any temperature if the sensor has failed.

Not Level

Depending on the type of thermostat you have, it may show the wrong temperature if it’s not level. Old thermostats contain a small amount of mercury. If they aren’t level, they won’t be able to sense the correct temperature. This isn’t a concern for new thermostats. New thermostats don’t use mercury, so an unlevel placement won’t affect their ability to sense the correct temperature.

Common Questions and Answers About Gas Logs

Gas fireplaces don’t use the same wood logs as wood-burning fireplaces. If you’re thinking about investing in a gas fireplace, you’ll need to purchase a set of gas logs. Gas logs are special logs that are designed for use with gas fireplaces. Below are some of the most common questions and answers about gas logs.

How Long Do Gas Logs Last?

Unlike wood logs, gas logs are reusable. They won’t burn to ash. You can continue to use them in your gas fireplace for many years. Most gas logs, in fact, last for over 10 years.

What Maintenance Do Gas Logs Require?

Gas logs require very little maintenance. You’ll need to ensure they are properly positioned over the burner so that the flame is able to rise up and around them. You’ll also need to clean the gas logs. Neglecting to clean them will result in the accumulation of dust, which can create airborne pollution when burned. Aside from positioning and cleaning, though, gas logs don’t require much maintenance.

What Are Gas Logs Made Of?

You might be wondering what gas logs are made of. They may look like real wood logs, but they don’t contain any actual cellulose. Instead, gas logs are typically made of ceramic or cement. With a ceramic or cement construction, they can withstand extreme heat.

Do Gas Logs Require a Chimney?

Some gas logs require a chimney, whereas others don’t. Vented gas logs, for instance, are designed for use in vented gas fireplaces, so they require a chimney. Ventless gas logs, in comparison, are designed for use in ventless gas fireplaces. Ventless gas fireplaces aren’t connected to a chimney.

Is Professional Installation Worth It?

You should absolutely get your gas logs professionally installed. It will give you peace of mind knowing that they are properly and safely installed. Attempting a do-it-yourself (DIY) installation may lead to problems. You may accidentally block the burner, or you may fail to use the right ventilation system. By investing in a professional installation service, you can avoid problems such as these.

Do Gas Logs Produce Heat?

All gas logs will produce at least some heat. With that said, ventless gas logs are more effective at heating indoor living spaces. Since they don’t require a chimney, all of the heat will radiate into the surrounding room. Vented gas logs will produce heat as well, but they are typically used more for decorative and ambiance purposes.

The Link Between HVAC Air Filters and Static Pressure

Does your heating, ventilation and cooling (HVAC) system suffer from excessively high or low static pressure? You may want to check the air filter. Air filters can affect static pressure. They can contribute to high or low static pressure while subsequently causing other problems with your HVAC system. By understanding the connection between air filters and static pressure, however, you can better maintain your HVAC system.

Static Pressure Explained

Static pressure is a measurement of airflow resistance in the ductwork. To supply your home’s living spaces with conditioned air, your HVAC system must overcome this airflow resistance. More specifically, the blower must be powerful enough to effectively push the conditioned air into and through the ductwork. Static pressure is a measurement of this resistance.

High static pressure indicates a high level of airflow resistance. The blower will have to work harder to push the conditioned air into and through the ductwork. Low static pressure indicates a low level of airflow resistance, in which case the blower will easily move the conditioned air through the ductwork.

Dirt and Debris

Air filters that are clogged with dirt and debris will contribute to higher static pressure. All air filters will catch dirt and debris. After all, that’s how they clean the air in homes. As air flows through the filter, it will remove particulate matter, including dust, dirt and mold.

Neglecting to replace your HVAC system’s air filter, though, may lead to high static pressure. In most residential HVAC systems, the air filter should be replaced at least once every three months. By the end of three months, it will be clogged to the point where air struggles to flow through it. The clogged filter will restrict the flow of air, in which case your HVAC system’s static pressure will increase.

MERV Rating

The minimum efficiency rating value (MERV) of an air filter will affect static pressure. Developed by the American Society of Heating, Refrigerating and Air-Conditioning Engineers (ASHRAE), MERV represents an air filter’s ability to remove small particulate matter. It ranges from 1 to 16. Some air filters have a low MERV rating, and others have a high MERV rating.

Air filters with a high MERV rating will remove more particular matter, but it comes at the cost of restricted airflow. Air won’t be able to flow through them as easily as air filters with a low MERV rating. Therefore, using an air filter with a high MERV rating can cause high static pressure.

What Is a Flow Sensor on a Tankless Water Heater?

Tankless water heaters can provide you and your family with hot water on demand. Rather than storing hot water in a tank – like with traditional tank-based water heaters – they will heat the water as it’s needed. While they serve the same purpose of providing hot water, though, tankless water heaters feature different parts than tank-based water heaters.

Tankless water heaters may feature a flow sensor, for instance. If you’re thinking about switching to a tankless water heater, you might be wondering what a flow sensor does exactly.

Flow Sensors Explained

A flow sensor is a device that’s designed to detect or sense the flow of water. They are commonly found on tankless water heaters. As water flows through this device, it will send a signal to the tankless water heater.

How a Flow Sensor Works on a Tankless Water Heater

Since they don’t store heated water in a tank, tankless water heaters often require a flow sensor. The flow sensor works by telling the tankless water heater when to heat the water. It will control when the tankless water heater turns on and off.

When you turn on a hot water faucet in your home, the flow sensor will send a signal to the tankless water heater, telling it to turn on. Some tankless water heaters run on electricity, whereas others run on natural gas. Regardless, the flow sensor will tell them to turn on if there’s a demand for hot water. And when there’s no longer a demand for hot water, the flow sensor will tell them to turn off.

Signs of a Faulty Flow Sensor

Flow sensors can fail. They may accumulate hard mineral deposits that cause them to corrode, or they may simply wear out over time.

A faulty flow sensor can manifest in different ways. It may prevent the tankless water heater from turning on. Even if there’s a demand for hot water, the tankless water heater’s heating element may not activate. As a result, you’ll feel cold water coming out of the faucets – even if you’re trying to use the hot water.

Alternatively, a faulty flow sensor may result in the tankless water heater running continuously. It may wrongfully sense a constant demand for hot water. The faulty flow sensor will then send a signal to the tankless water heater that keeps it running. Tankless water heaters can sustain damage if they run continuously. Therefore, neglecting to repair or replace a faulty flow sensor may lead to more expensive water heater repairs.

The 3 Types of Gas Furnace Burners

The burner is arguably the most important part of a gas furnace. As gas and air mix inside of it, an ignition system consisting of either a pilot light or electric ignition will ignite this mixture. This will produce heat that’s absorbed by the heat exchanger.

Not all burners are the same, however. While they are all designed to burn a mixture of gas and air, they are available in different types. Most furnaces use either an upshot, inshot or conversion burner.

#1) Upshot

Upshot burners are designed for use in natural draft furnaces. Natural draft furnaces, of course, rely on natural atmospheric pressure to dispel flue gases. They burn gas and air to produce flue gases. The flue gases are naturally hot, so they will rise into the furnace’s exhaust pipe. Regardless, if you use a natural draft furnace in your home, it will likely feature an upshot burner.

#2) Inshot

Inshot burners are the most common type. More gas furnaces use an inshot burner than an upshot or conversion burner. They are found in most induced draft furnaces as well as high-efficiency furnaces.

Inshot burners have a valve-controlled gas intake. Gas will enter the inshot burner through the valve. The valve works to control how much gas enters the inshot burner, ensuring that it’s not too much or too little. The gas will then travel to the inshot burner’s tube where it’s mixed with air. The combination of gas and air will then exit out the end of the tube. Upon exiting the inshot burner, the gas and air will be exposed to the ignition system that ignites it.

#3) Conversion

Conversion burners receive their namesake from their ability to convert the type of fuel a furnace uses. If you have an oil furnace, for instance, you can install a conversion burner so that it will run on gas. You won’t have to replace your entire furnace; you just need to replace the burner. Removing the old burner and replacing it with a new conversion burner will allow your furnace to run on gas.

Conversion burners aren’t as common as upshot or inshot furnaces. They are only used in instances where homeowners want to convert the type of fuel their furnace uses. A conversion burner will “convert” an oil furnace into a gas furnace. If your furnace already runs on gas, you won’t need to use a conversion burner.

Duct Liner vs Duct Wrap: What’s the Difference?

Ductwork requires insulation. According to the U.S. Department of Energy (EPA), 20% to 30% of the conditioned air that moves through a home is lost due to leaking or otherwise compromised ductwork. While most residential heating, ventilation and cooling systems (HVAC) use traditional insulation consisting of fiberglass or blown cellulose, some of them use an alternative type of insulation for the ductwork, such as duct liner or duct wrap.

What Is Duct Liner?

Duct liner is a special type of insulation that’s designed for use inside of an HVAC system’s ductwork. It typically consists of a semi-elastic foam material.

In HVAC systems with rigid ductwork, duct liner may be used as insulation. Duct liner is installed inside of rigid ductwork where it minimizes the loss of thermal energy and maximizes the HVAC system’s energy efficiency.

What Is Duct Wrap?

Duct wrap is a special type of insulation that’s designed for use over and around an HVAC system’s ductwork. Most duct wrap consists of rolls of insulation. Fiberglass is a common material from which duct wrap is made.

Duct wrap is used for the same purpose of insulating ductwork as duct liner. With little or no insulation, thermal energy will leak through the walls of the ductwork. Duct wrap is a type of insulation that “wraps” around ductwork.

Differences Between Duct Liner and Duct Wrap

Duct liner and duct wrap are insulation products for ductwork. Duct liner is designed for use inside of the ductwork. As the name suggests, duct liner “lines” the interior of the ductwork. Duct wrap is designed for use around the exterior of the ductwork.

Another difference between duct liner and duct wrap is that the former is typically used exclusively for rigid ductwork. Rigid ductwork consists of hard, rigid conduits. Most residential HVAC systems use flexible ductwork, whereas commercial HVAC systems may use flexible or rigid ductwork. Flexible ductwork consists of flexible conduits that can bend without breaking. While duct wrap can be used to insulate both types of ductwork, duct liner only works for rigid ductwork.

Duct wrap is easier to install than duct liner, especially for existing ductwork. Technicians can roll the duct wrap over the ductwork. In comparison, duct liner must be placed inside of the ductwork.

For a more energy-efficient HVAC system, you should evaluate your ductwork’s insulation. If it’s poorly insulated, you’ll pay more to heat and cool your home. Ensuring that the ductwork is properly insulated, though, will have the opposite effect by lowering your heating and cooling expenses.

Furnace Fuses: Everything You Need to Know

If your furnace isn’t turning on, a blown fuse could be to blame. Most new furnaces have a fuse. Like with other fuses, it’s a safety device that protects against overcurrent. Fuses can blow, however. And until you replace the blown fuse, you won’t be able to use your furnace.

The Purpose of a Furnace Fuse

Most new furnaces have a fuse to protect against overcurrent. Overcurrent can cause serious damage to furnaces. If there’s too much current flowing to a furnace – current is measured in amperage – the furnace’s electrical parts may fail.

Electric furnaces use electricity to generate heat, but even gas furnaces use electricity to power the blower. To protect against overcurrent, most of them have a fuse. It’s usually found in the control board near the blower.

How Furnace Fuses Work

Furnace fuses work by allowing a limited amount of current to pass through them. Some furnace fuses are rated for 3 amps, whereas others are rated for 5 amps. Regardless, they will only allow the current for which they are rated to pass through.

If the current is greater than that for which a furnace fuse is rated, the fuse will blow. Blown fuses are characterized by a broken conductive pathway. New, functional fuses have a complete conductive pathway. This means electricity can travel through a new fuse. Excess current, though, will cause fuses to blow.

Furnace fuses and other types of fuses are designed to blow when exposed to excess current. Excess current will typically break the conductive pathway within the furnace fuse. With a broken conductive pathway, electricity won’t be able to reach the furnace.

Fixing a Blown Furnace Fuse

If your furnace has a blown fuse, you’ll need to replace it. Most furnaces won’t turn on with a blown fuse. You may still be able to run the air conditioning system, but the furnace won’t run with a blown fuse.

Fortunately, furnace fuses are inexpensive. You just need to purchase a furnace fuse with the same amperage rating and size as the existing, blown furnace fuse. After pulling the blown fuse from the control board, you can insert the new fuse.

You can contact a professional heating, ventilation and cooling (HVAC) technician for assistance as well. Maybe you can’t find the fuse, or perhaps you aren’t sure which type of fuse you need to replace it with. A professional HVAC technician can replace your furnace’s blown fuse while restoring heat to your home.

Dealing With a Sticking Gas Valve on a Furnace

A sticking gas valve is more than just frustrating; it’s a safety hazard. Gas furnaces burn natural gas. They use an electric or flame-based ignition system to ignite natural gas as it’s released. If your furnace has a gas valve that’s sticking, though, it may not release or any natural gas, or it may continue to release natural gas nonstop.

How the Gas Valves Work on a Furnace

Most gas furnaces have one or two valves. You can find them on the side of your gas furnace. They work by controlling the release of natural gas.

Gas furnaces that have two gas valves will have a primary valve and a main valve. The primary valve releases natural gas to the pilot light, whereas the main valve releases natural gas to the burner. Regardless, all gas valves can either release natural gas, or they can prevent natural gas from being released.

Closed vs Open Sticking

What does it mean for a gas valve to “stick” exactly? Sticking refers to a phenomenon in which a gas valve – or any valve for that matter – remains stuck in a particular position. Gas valves have an open position, and they have a closed position. They are designed to toggle between these two positions while subsequently controlling the release of natural gas.

A gas valve that’s stuck closed won’t release natural gas. A gas valve that’s stuck open, on the other hand, will constantly release natural gas.

Turn Off Natural Gas to Home

If your furnace’s gas valve is stuck open, you should turn off the natural gas to your home. A gas valve that’s stuck closed will typically only affect your furnace’s operations. Your furnace won’t receive the natural gas it needs to create combustion and, thus, produce warm air. But a gas valve that’s stuck open will continue to release natural gas.

Furnaces are designed with safeguards to prevent them from leaking natural gas into homes. Gas valves, however, can still fail by sticking closed or open. If you believe your furnace has a gas valve that’s stuck open, you should turn off the natural gas to your home and seek professional assistance immediately.

In Conclusion

Sticking is somewhat rare with gas valves, but it can still occur. Gas valves can stick closed so that they fail to release natural gas, or they can stick open so that they always release natural gas. A professional heating, ventilation and cooling (HVAC) technician can help to diagnose and fix your stuck gas valve.

5 Things to Consider When Choosing a Mini-Split HVAC System

Are you looking to buy a mini-split heating, ventilation and cooling (HVAC) system? Unlike central HVAC systems, mini-split HVAC systems don’t require ductwork. You can install them in individual rooms without relying on ductwork. Also known as ductless HVAC systems, they are ideal for basements, garages, bonus rooms and other indoor spaces. But there are several things you should consider when choosing a mini-split HVAC system.

#1) Cooling Only vs Cooling and Heating

Some mini-split HVAC systems only offer cooling, but others offer both cooling and heating. Mini-split HVAC systems that only offer cooling are essentially packaged AC systems. They feature a condenser coil and an evaporator coil. Mini-split HVAC systems that offer both cooling and heating feature these same coils, but they operate like a heat pump. They can transfer heat from the interior to the exterior, or they can transfer heat from the exterior to the interior.

#2) Cooling Capacity

You should consider the cooling capacity when choosing a mini-split HVAC system.  While only some mini-split HVAC systems offer heating, they all offer cooling. Cooling performance or strength is represented by cooling capacity. And cooling capacity is measured in tonnage or British Thermal Units (BTUs). The higher the tonnage or BTU, the greater the mini-split HVAC system’s cooling capacity.

#3) Energy Usage

Different types of mini-split HVAC systems offer different energy efficiency ratings. You can refer to the Seasonal Energy Efficiency Ratio (SEER) rating to determine how much energy a mini-split heat pump will use. A high SEER rating indicates energy efficiency. It’s not exclusive to cooling. Rather, SEER ratings represent energy efficiency for both cooling and heating.

#4) Quietness

Since you’ll probably be using it indoors, you may want to choose a mini-split HVAC system that’s relatively quiet. All mini-split, as well as central, HVAC systems produce some noise during operation. But some of them are quieter than others. Mini-split HVAC systems often have a decibel rating. The decibel rating reveals how much noise a mini-split HVAC system will produce.

#5) Installation Requirements

Don’t forget to consider the installation requirements when choosing a mini-split HVAC system. There are two main parts to a mini-split HVAC system: the blower and evaporator coil and the condenser coil. You’ll have to install the former part on a wall inside of your home, and you’ll have to install the latter part outside of your home. If you aren’t comfortable installing it yourself, though, you can always hire a professional to upgrade your home with a mini-split HVAC system.

How to Maintain Return Vents

When was the last time you cleaned your heating, ventilation and cooling system’s (HVAC’s) return vents? Also known as return grilles, they are essential to your HVAC system’s operations.

Whether you have a furnace and an air conditioner or a heat pump, air must travel through your home so that your HVAC system can cool or warm it. Your HVAC system will draw this air through the return vents, at which point it will warm or cool the air. Your HVAC system will then send this newly conditioned air into the ductwork where it’s distributed throughout your home via supply vents. You can maintain return vents by following these tips.

Check for Obstructions

At least once a year, check your HVAC system’s return vents for obstructions. Obstructions will restrict or prevent air from being sucked into the return vents. Maybe there’s a sofa in front of a return vent, or perhaps there’s a wall decorating covering a return vent. Obstructions such as these should be removed so that air can travel into the ductwork and, thus, reach your HVAC system’s equipment.

Clean Dust

Return vents require cleaning. Due to their design, they are a haven for dust. Supply vents are designed to push conditioned air out of the ductwork and into your home. Return vents, conversely, are designed to pull unconditioned air into the ductwork. As air is drawn into the ductwork, dust and other forms of airborne debris will collect on the return vents.

You can easily clean return vents. Make sure your HVAC system is turned off, after which you can use a dust or wand attachment on a vacuum cleaner to clean the return vents When finished, use a lint-free cloth to clean any remaining dust.

Tighten Fasteners

You may need to tighten the fasteners on the return vents. Return vents are typically installed with fasteners like bolts. Over time, these fasteners can work their way out of the holes in which they were driven. And if a return vent has loose fasteners, it may leak.

Leaking return vents will struggle to provide your HVAC system with a sufficient amount of air. Rather than entering the ductwork, some of the air will leak around the sides of the return vents and into the walls, attic or crawlspace.

Using a screwdriver or wrench, go around your home while tightening any loose fasteners on the return vents. Ensuring all of the fasteners are tight will protect the return vents from leaks.

Why Your High-Efficiency Furnace Needs a Condensate Trap

High-efficiency furnaces offer substantial cost-savings benefits for homeowners. They can convert 95% to 97% of their consumed energy into heat. Older furnaces, on the other hand, may only convert 60% to 70% of their consumed energy into heat. If you’re going to upgrade to a high-efficiency furnace, though, you’ll need to ensure it has a condensate trap.

What Is a Condensate Trap?

A condensate trap is a drainage pipe that’s designed to trap a small amount of water. They are typically U- or P-shaped pieces of PVC pipe. Condensate traps are connected to condensation drainage systems. They allow water in the form of condensation to drain, but they prevent air or water from coming back up the drainage system.

How Condensate Traps Work

Condensate traps work by trapping a small amount of water. Condensation drainage systems don’t consist of a single vertical pipe. Instead, most of them have a condensate trap near the top.

Water will travel through the condensate trap and into the pipe to which it connects. The condensate trap, however, will remain filled with water. It serves as a trap for condensation. Water will remain in the condensate trap, thereby creating a seal between the condensation drainage system and your home’s exterior.

Why High-Efficiency Furnaces Need a Condensate Trap

High-efficiency furnaces produce more condensation than older furnaces with a lower efficiency rating. Some of them, in fact, can produce a half-dozen gallons of condensation per day. A condensate trap will help to flush all of this water to your home’s exterior while protecting against air leaks.

The main reason high-efficiency furnaces need a condensate trap is to prevent flue gases from entering indoor living spaces. High-efficiency gas furnaces produce condensation as a byproduct of burning natural gas. Therefore, their exhaust systems are directly connected to their condensation drainage systems. Condensation from the exhaust gases will enter the condensation drainage system where it’s flushed to the exterior.

Without a condensate trap, flue gases may not be properly flushed to the exterior. Some of the flue gases may escape and enter your home’s indoor living spaces. A condensate trap prevents this from happening by ensuring that condensation and flue gases can only travel out of your home.

In Conclusion

A condensate trap is an essential part of a high-efficiency furnace. It helps to remove all of the excess condensation while also preventing flue gases from entering indoor living spaces.

Why Water Heaters Have 2 Thermostats

Contrary to common belief, not all water heaters have a single thermostat. While some of them do have a single thermostat, others have two thermostats.

Water heater thermostats are temperature-controlling devices. They allow you to change the temperature of the stored water. A typical water heater thermostat consists of an adjustable dial. Turning the dial in one direction will lower the temperature of the stored water Turning the dial in the opposite direction will raise the temperature of the stored water.

Tank vs Tankless

There are two primary styles of water heaters: tank and tankless. Tank-style water heaters feature a tank. They work by heating and storing water in a tank. Tankless-style water heaters, as the name suggests, don’t have a tank. They heat water on demand as it enters your home.

Both tank-style and tankless-style water heaters use thermostats. Tank-style water heaters, though, may feature two thermostats, whereas tankless-style thermostats typically only feature a single thermostat.

Heating Elements

Many tank-style water heaters – particularly those powered by electricity and not natural gas – feature two thermostats because they have two heating elements. They have a heating element at the bottom of the tank and another heating element at the top of the tank. Rather than featuring a single thermostat to control both heating elements simultaneously, they feature a separate thermostat for each heating element.

If you have a tank-style electric water heater, you may discover that it features two thermostats. The thermostats will be located at the top of the tank and the bottom of the tank. Adjusting the top thermostat will change the temperature of the top heating element. Adjusting the bottom thermostat will change the temperature of the bottom heating element.

Why don’t tank-style water heaters use a single heating element exactly? The reason is efficiency. With a single heating element, they’ll have to consume more energy. The heating element will draw more electricity as it attempts to keep the stored water warm. With two heating elements, though, tank-style water heaters are more efficient.

Most tank-style water heaters don’t use both of their heating elements all the time. They’ll typically use the bottom heating element to warm the incoming water. The newly warmed water will then float to the top. Since it’s already warm, they won’t have to activate the second, top heating element.

Tank-style water heaters will only use the top heating element when the temperature in that area of the tank drops below that of the thermostat setting. If you take a long hot shower, for example, the top heating element will activate. If you don’t use a lot of hot water, conversely, only the bottom heating element will activate.

Is It Normal for a Heat Pump to Run All the Time During the Winter?

If your heat pump runs 24/7 during the winter, you might be wondering whether this is normal. Not all homes feature a furnace. While furnaces are undoubtedly popular, many homes now feature a heat pump.

Heat pumps are centralized heating and cooling systems that transfer or “pump” heat from one place to another place. They typically feature an indoor coil and an outdoor coil. A heat pump can warm your home during the winter by transferring heat from the outdoor coil to the indoor coil. So, is it normal for a heat pump to run all the time during the winter?

Thermostat Temperature Setting Is Too High

If the temperature setting on your thermostat is too high, your heat pump will run for an extended period during the winter. It may not necessarily run all day long. Nonetheless, the higher the temperature setting in relation to the actual indoor temperature, the longer your heat pump will run. This is completely normal, as your heat pump won’t stop running until it has achieved the thermostat temperature.

It’s Too Cold Outside

Your heat pump may run continuously during the winter if it’s excessively cold outside. Heat pumps can operate in both warm and cold weather. During the summer, you can cool your home with a heat pump by setting it to the “cooling” mode. During the winter, you can warm your home with a heat pump by setting it to “heating” mode.

When set to “heating” mode, your heat pump will extract heat from the outdoor air. It will absorb this heat into coolant at the outdoor coil, and it will transfer the hot coolant to the indoor coil inside of your home. But the outdoor temperature will affect your heat pump’s performance during the winter. If it’s excessively cold outside, your heat pump may struggle to meet your heating demands.

Undersized Unit

If your heat pump is undersized, it may run continuously during the winter. Heat pump sizes are measured in tonnage or British Thermal Units (BTUs). Your heat pump needs to be big enough to effectively warm your home. If it’s too small, it may run continuously.

Undersized heat pump units lack the heating power of their properly sized counterpart. If your heat pump is undersized, you should consider replacing it with a larger unit.

Gas Furnaces: The Importance of the Right Location

The location of a gas furnace is important. In some homes, it’s installed in the basement. In others, the gas furnace is installed in the attic or even the garage. If you’re thinking about purchasing a new gas furnace, you might be wondering where to install it. You can always ask a professional heating, ventilation and cooling (HVAC) technician for advice, but the following factors can affect the ideal location for a gas furnace.

Branch Lines

Gas furnaces must be installed near a branch line. After all, they are powered by natural gas. Natural gas enters your home via the main gas supply line. From there, it will flow through branch lines. Branch lines are the smaller lines that “branch out” from the main gas supply line. When installing a gas furnace, you should typically choose a location that’s near a branch line. Otherwise, you’ll have to run a new branch line.

Ventilation

Unlike electric furnaces, gas furnaces require ventilation. They will produce combustion gases when burning natural gas. A ventilation system will safely expel these combustion gases out of your home. This is why many gas furnaces are installed in the attic. They feature an exhaust flue that, like a chimney, runs out the top of the roof. Gas furnaces located in the attic will produce combustion gases that travel into the exhaust flue and out the roof.

Airflow

Some places in your home probably have better airflow than others. If you’re looking to buy a gas furnace, you should choose a location with adequate airflow. Gas furnaces require a certain amount of airflow for safety and performance purposes. With little or no airflow, they may overheat.

Clearance

You should consider the clearance when choosing a location for a gas furnace. Gas furnaces, of course, are relatively large. They consist of a large rectangular unit. And most gas furnaces – along with electric furnaces – are installed in conjunction with a blower. When installing a new gas furnace, you’ll need to choose a location with enough clearance for these items. The furnace and the blower must fit inside the space, and they must provide a sufficient amount of clearance.

Ductwork

Gas furnaces require ductwork. Assuming your home already has ductwork, you’ll need to install the gas furnace in an area that can easily connect to the ductwork. Ductwork may be located in the attic, basement or crawlspace. The gas furnace must be able to connect to the ductwork so that it can supply your home with warm air.