What Is a Hot Surface Ignitor?

Gas furnaces have evolved over the years. While many older gas furnaces have an Annual Fuel Utilization Efficiency (AFUE) rating of just 50%, new gas furnaces may boast an AFUE rating of 95% or higher. New gas furnaces feature different parts than their older counterparts, one of which is a hot surface ignitor.  If you’re thinking about upgrading to a new gas furnace, you should familiarize yourself with this part.

Overview of Hot Surface Ignitors

A hot surface ignitor is an electrical device that’s designed to light the burner assembly in a gas furnace. All gas furnaces require some type of ignition system. In the past, most of them used a pilot light. But many new gas furnaces now use a hot surface ignitor. The hot surface ignitor will ignite the natural valve, resulting in the production of heat.

How Hot Surface Ignitors Work

As electricity flows through a hot surface ignitor, it will warm up. The hot surface ignitor will eventually get hot enough to ignite the natural gas.

Unlike pilot lights, hot surface ignitors don’t produce a flame. They leverage electricity to ignite the natural gas. Hot surface ignitors typically consist of a conductive metal strip. Electricity will flow through this metal strip so that it heats up. After reaching an appropriate temperature, the hot surface ignitor will ignite the natural gas.

Why Pilot Lights Are Being Phased Out in Favor of Hot Surface Ignitors

There are still some gas furnaces that use a pilot light, but most of them now feature a hot surface ignitor. Hot surface ignitors are typically more reliable.  They feature a simple design consisting of a conductive metal strip. As long as a hot surface ignitor is connected to a power source, it will ignite the natural gas.

Safety is another reason hot surface ignitors are preferred over pilot lights. Hot surface ignitors rely on electricity to ignite the natural gas. Pilot lights, conversely, rely on a flame to light the natural gas. Without a flame, hot surface ignitors are viewed as being safer than pilot lights.

Hot surface ignitors are easier to maintain. Pilot lights tend to go out. And once the pilot light has gone out, you’ll have to relight it. Hot surface ignitors don’t produce a flame, so you don’t need to worry about relighting them. Many homeowners prefer gas furnaces with a hot surface ignitor because they don’t need to worry about lighting or relighting a pilot light.

Why Your Thermostat Is Making a Clicking Sound

Does your thermostat make a clicking sound? It’s a common phenomenon associated with both old and new thermostats alike. You may be lounging in your living room, only to hear a clicking sound coming from the thermostat when your furnace or air conditioning system turns on.

In most cases, a clicking sound is normal. Thermostats will often make a clicking sound when they activate the air conditioning systems or furnaces with which they are used.

Relays and Clicking

If you hear a clicking sound coming from the thermostat, don’t panic. It’s probably just the relay. Thermostats work by opening and closing a circuit in response to the temperature for which they are set. Relays are devices that control these circuits.

To activate your air conditioning system or furnace, the thermostat must close the circuit. This is where the relay comes into play. Also known as a relay switch, it will move in response to the thermostat’s temperature setting. If the thermostat determines that it’s time to run your air conditioning system or furnace, it will move the relay so that it closes the circuit.

You won’t be able to see the relay. Relays are found inside of thermostats, so they are covered by the housing unit. But the relay will move automatically in response to the thermostat’s setting. As it moves, it may open or close the circuit. Relays are designed to control the circuit for air conditioning systems and furnaces so that thermostats can activate these systems.

What About Mercury Thermostats?

Even older, mercury-based thermostats make a clicking sound. Mercury-based thermostats use a mercury bulb to activate air conditioning systems and furnaces. The mercury bulb will move in response to the thermostat’s settings. Depending on the direction in which it moves, the mercury bulb will then activate the appropriate system while simultaneously creating a clicking sound.

New thermostats typically feature a relay, whereas mercury thermostats feature a mercury bulb. Regardless, you may hear a clicking sound as they activate – as well as deactivate – your air conditioning system or furnace.

In Conclusion

While some sounds are a sign of an underlying problem with a thermostat, clicking is not. It’s normally for thermostats to make a clicking sound. If it’s particularly loud, you can always move the thermostat to a different part of your home, or you may be able to add insulation to it. But you don’t have to worry about a clicking sound harming your heating, ventilation and cooling (HVAC) system.

Gas vs Propane Fireplaces: Which Is Best?

Fireplaces are often categorized according to their fuel type. In addition to wood fireplaces, there are gas and propane fireplaces. If you’re tired of hauling firewood into your home, you may want to switch to a gas or propane fireplace. They don’t require firewood. Instead, gas and propane fireplaces only require their respective fuel type.

Overview of Gas Fireplaces

Gas fireplaces burn natural gas. Natural gas this a type of gas consisting of methane, along with smaller concentrations of alkanes, that occurs naturally beneath the Earth’s surface. It’s a colorless, odorless and nontoxic substance.

Companies extract natural gas for use in homes and businesses. Appliances such as furnaces, ovens, water heaters and fireplaces may burn natural gas.

Overview of Propane Fireplaces

Propane fireplaces, on the other hand, burn propane. More specifically, they run on liquified propane gas (LPG). Propane isn’t an entirely different substance. Rather, it’s a mixture of natural gas and petroleum.

Companies make propane by combining natural gas and petroleum and then pressurizing it. As the pressure increases, propane turns into a liquid. Propane fireplaces burn the vapors from this liquid.

Differences Between Gas and Propane Fireplaces

Gas fireplaces are more convenient and easier to use than propane fireplaces. As long as your home is connected to a gas line, you won’t have to worry about refilling any tanks. You can connect your gas fireplace to the gas line, at which point you’ll be able to start fires.

Propane fireplaces use a different type of fuel. If you have a propane fireplace, you’ll need a propane tank to supply it with fuel. Propane tanks can only store a limited amount of propane fuel. Once you’ve depleted the tank, you’ll have to get it refilled.

You’ll also have to choose an appropriate storage area for the propane tank. Propane tanks aren’t necessarily a safety hazard. Because they contain pressurized, flammable propane, though, you can’t store them indoors. You should store them in an open, well-ventilated outdoor space.

Another advantage of choosing a gas fireplace is the cost. Gas fireplaces typically cost less than propane fireplaces. And because they are more common, gas fireplaces cost less to maintain. You can get them serviced for less than the cost of a propane fireplace.

Gas and propane fireplaces have similar efficiency ratings, and they both burn cleanly. Gas fireplaces, however, are preferred by many homeowners. They don’t require any tanks, and they typically cost less to install and maintain than propane fireplaces.

How to Tell If Your Heat Pump Needs More Refrigerant

The performance of your heat pump is dependent upon its refrigerant levels. Like air conditioning systems, heat pumps rely on refrigerant to condition the air inside of homes and buildings. They use refrigerant – typically R410A – to move heat between an indoor coil and an outdoor coil.

Different types of heat pumps require different amounts of refrigerant. Depending on the British Thermal Units (BTUs) and capacity, for instance, your heat pump may require anywhere from 5 to 15 pounds of refrigerant. If it’s low on refrigerant, you may notice the following symptoms.

Loss of Heating and Cooling Power

If your heat pump doesn’t heat and cool your home like it used to, it may need more refrigerant. Heat pumps need refrigerant to condition the indoor air. When in cooling mode, your heat pump will absorb heat from your home’s interior, which it will transfer to your home’s exterior via refrigerant. When in heating mode, your heat pump will perform this same process but in reverse.

Regardless, low refrigerant levels will typically manifest as a loss of heating and cooling power. Your heat pump won’t produce the same cold air in cooling mode, nor will it produce the same warm air in heating mode.

Frozen Coils or Refrigerant Lines

Frozen coils or refrigerant lines may indicate the need for more refrigerant. The refrigerant’s main job is to absorb heat so that it can be transferred to a different space (an indoor or outdoor coil). As your heat pump’s refrigerant levels begin to drop, moisture may enter the coils or lines where it causes them to freeze.

Unusual Noises

Do you hear unusual noises when running your heat pump? The problem could be attributed to low refrigerant levels.

Low refrigerant levels means your heat pump has a leak. Under normal circumstances, heat pumps shouldn’t lose any meaningful amount of refrigerant; they will retain their refrigerant levels. But leaks can occur that allow refrigerant to escape. If your heat pump has a leak, you may hear unusual noises originating from the coils or lines. Hissing and gurgling noises are common with leaks.

If you believe your heat pump is low on refrigerant, contact a heating, ventilation and cooling (HVAC) technician today for assistance. An HVAC technician can check the refrigerant levels, and if they are low, the technician can charge it.

6 Common Home Heating Myths You Shouldn’t Believe

Georgia is known for its hot summers, but the Peach State still has its fair share of cold winters. You can keep warm, however, by running your furnace. A furnace will warm your home while providing you and your family with a comfortable living space during the winter. But there are several home heating myths you shouldn’t believe.

#1) There’s No Benefit in Replacing an Old Furnace

If your furnace still works, you may assume that it’s not worth replacing. After all, most homeowners wait until an appliance breaks before replacing it. If it’s over a decade old, though, you may want to replace your furnace. New furnaces are more efficient. They consume less energy than old furnaces, making them a smart investment.

#2) Turning Up the Thermostat Results in Faster Heat

The speed at which your furnace heats up your home isn’t influenced by the thermostat temperature. Whether you raise the thermostat 2 degrees or 10 degrees, your furnace will still operate at the same speed. Turning up the thermostat will simply make your furnace run for a longer period.

#3) Furnaces Don’t Use an Air Filter

Another common home heating myth is that furnaces don’t use an air filter. The truth is that both air conditioning systems and furnaces use an air filter; they actually use the same air filter. If you’re experiencing airflow problems when running your furnace, you should check the air filter. If it’s dirty, replacing it may resolve your airflow problems.

#4) Space Heaters Are a Cost-Effective Alternative to a Furnace

Think using space heaters will save you money on your home’s heating costs? Think again. According to the U.S. Department of Energy (DOE), it costs over 40% more to heat a home with electric space heaters than a gas furnace.

#5) Heat Pumps Don’t Aren’t Effective at Warming Homes

A heat pump is an alternative central heating system. Unlike furnaces, they generate heat by transferring it from the outdoors to the indoors. While they lack the heating power of their furnace counterparts, heat pumps are still effective at warming homes. If you live in a Northern state, you may want to choose a furnace. But a heat pump will suffice for most Southern states, including Georgia.

#6) Closing Supply Vents Will Save You Money on Heating Costs

Closing the supply vents won’t save you money on your home’s heating costs. It will typically have the opposite effect by trapping the warm, conditioned air inside of your home’s ductwork. Rather than being expelled out the supply vents, the conditioned air will remain stuck inside the ductwork.

Is Your Heat Pump Blowing Cold Air? What You Should Know

A heat pump is an energy-efficient alternative to a traditional furnace. Some of them, in fact, are up to three times more efficient than a typical furnace. They will convert more of their consumed energy into heat. The end result is lower heating costs for you and your family. If your heat pump is blowing cold air, though, you’ll need to troubleshoot it.

Wrong Thermostat Setting

Something as simple as the wrong thermostat setting may cause your heat pump to blow cold air. Heat pumps are complete heating, ventilation and cooling (HVAC) systems. They can cool your home during the summer and warm your home during the winter. And you can control them at the thermostat.

If your thermostat is set to COOL, your heat pump will blow cold air. It will act like an air conditioning system by transferring heat from inside your home to outside your home. Switching your thermostat to HEAT, conversely, will make it blow warm air. Your heat pump will only blow warm air if the thermostat is set to HEAT.

Reversing Valve Failure

Your heat pump may blow cold air if the reversing valve has failed. Reversing valves are designed to change or reverse the flow of refrigerant. Like air conditioning systems, heat pumps contain refrigerant. They use refrigerant to transfer heat.

The direction in which the refrigerant travels will determine whether your heat pump produces cold or warm air. The reversing valve works in conjunction with the thermostat to change the direction of the refrigerant. When you set the thermostat to HEAT, the reversing valve will force refrigerant to travel from the outdoor coil to the indoor coil. If the reversing valve has failed, though, your heat pump may remain stuck in cooling mode – even if you set the thermostat to HEAT.

Defrost Mode

During defrost mode, your heat pump won’t blow warm air; it will typically blow cold air. Most heat pumps have a defrost mode. When the temperature drops below freezing, ice may form on your heat pump. Your heat pump will automatically enter defrost mode to melt this ice.

Defrost mode works like an air conditioning system. Air conditioning systems transfer heat from inside of homes to the outside of homes. Heat pumps leverage this same process to melt ice. Once in defrost mode, your heat pump will transfer heat to the outdoor coil. You’ll typically feel cold air coming out of the vents until it has completed the defrost cycle.

The Homeowner's Guide to Direct Vent Fireplaces

There are different types of fireplaces. In recent years, direct vent has become an increasingly popular choice among homeowners. Even if you don’t have a chimney in your home, you can still install a direct vent fireplace. Direct vent fireplaces still require ventilation, but they don’t require a chimney. For a better understanding of direct vent fireplaces, keep reading.

What Is a Direct Vent Fireplace?

A direct vent fireplace is a type of gas fireplace that vents directly to the exterior of the homes and buildings in which they are installed.  Like all gas fireplaces, direct vent fireplaces will produce combustion gases. They are distinguished from other types of gas fireplaces, however, by the way in which they are vented. Direct vent fireplaces feature a flue system that connects the firebox to the exterior.

How Direct Vent Fireplaces Work

The flue system for a typical direct vent fireplace has two passages. One of these passages serves as an air intake, whereas the other passage serves as an exhaust outlet.

When using a direct vent fireplace, combustion gases will be expelled through the exhaust outlet. Rather than building up inside of the fireplace, combustion gases will enter the flue system. Once inside of the flue system, combustion gases will travel through the exhaust outlet where they are eventually expelled.

Direct vent fireplaces will also pull fresh air from the exterior to the firebox. They have an air intake passage and an exhaust outlet passage. Direct vent fireplace will use the former flue system passage to pull in fresh air. This fresh air will help to feed the fire in the firebox.

Benefits of a Direct Vent Fireplace

Direct vent fireplaces are efficient. They are among the most energy-efficient gas fireplaces on the market. The dual-passage flue system prevents the loss of heat. Heat will radiate out the front of a direct vent fireplace rather than exiting through the flue system.

As previously mentioned, direct vent fireplaces don’t require a chimney. You can install a direct vent fireplace in your home regardless of whether it has a chimney.

You can rest assured knowing that direct vent fireplaces are safe. The firebox is typically sealed. In other words, it features a pane of heat-resistant glass on the front. With a sealed firebox, combustion gases won’t be able to enter your home’s living spaces. Direct vent fireplaces will still produce combustion gases when burning natural gas, but these combustion gases will enter the exhaust outlet where they are expelled to your home’s exterior.

Why Your Furnace Keeps Tripping the Reset Switch

Does your furnace keep tripping the reset switch? Rather than warming up your home to the temperature set on the thermostat, it will turn off prematurely. When it trips the reset switch, your furnace will shut off – even if it hasn’t reached the thermostat temperature. By understanding why your furnace keeps tripping the reset switch, you can make the necessary changes to fix it.

The Reset Switch Explained

Most furnaces have a reset switch. Located around the blower, it allows homeowners and technicians to turn off the furnace if there’s a problem. You can activate the reset switch manually by pressing this button around the blower.

Your furnace, however, may trip the reset switch automatically if it detects a problem. The reset switch is a safety feature. If there’s a problem with your furnace, you can activate the reset switch manually, or your furnace may activate it automatically. Your furnace will shut off once the reset switch has been activated.

Overheating

Overheating may cause your furnace to trip the reset switch. Furnaces are designed to operate at a specific temperature. If your furnace exceeds this operating temperature, it may trip the reset switch. A lack of airflow, for instance, may cause your furnace to overheat and, thus, trip the reset switch.

Faulty Flame Sensor

If there’s a problem with your furnace’s flame sensor, it may trip the reset switch. The flame sensor is designed to detect the presence of a flame. It ensures that the gas valve is only open when a flame is present. If your furnace has a faulty flame sensor, it may trip the reset switch.

Gas Disruption

A disruption of your furnace’s gas supply may cause it to trip the reset switch. Assuming your furnace is powered by gas, it will need a readily available source of gas to operate. If the gas flowing to your furnace is blocked or otherwise disrupted, your furnace may trip the reset switch. A clogged gas valve, for example, will disrupt the flow of gas, in which case your furnace may trip the reset switch.

In Conclusion

Furnaces can trip the reset switch if they detect a problem. Maybe your furnace is overheating, or perhaps it has a faulty flame sensor. Problems such as these may trip the reset switch so that your furnace shuts down. If you notice your furnace tripping the reset switch, don’t hesitate to contact a heating, ventilation and cooling (HVAC) professional for assistance.

Blower Motors: What Does Horsepower Indicate?

When most people think of horsepower, they envision automotive engines. The power of an automotive engine is measured in horsepower. Most modern-day cars can produce about 150 to 250 horsepower. Horsepower, however, isn’t limited to automotive engines. It’s used to measure the power of other devices, including blower motors.

Blower Motor Horsepower Explained

Different blower motors have a different horsepower specification. Blower motors, of course, are used to circulate air through the ductwork. They power the blower fan, which is typically found in the furnace or air handler. Whether you’re running the air conditioner or furnace, the blower fan will turn on. The blower motor is the electric motor that drives the blower fan.

Horsepower is a measurement of power. For blower motors, horsepower represents the strength at which the blower motor can tun the blower fan. Some blower motors have 1/5 or 1/3 horsepower. Other blower motors have 1/2 horsepower.  There are even blower motors with multi-horsepower, such as 1/2 and 1/3.

Most heating, ventilation and cooling (HVAC) systems feature a 1/2 horsepower blower motor. But blower motors are still available in higher horsepower specifications.

How Horsepower Affects Blower Motors

Choosing a high-horsepower blower motor will typically result in faster air circulation. The blower fan must push air into the ductwork so that the air will circulate throughout your home. It will push the conditioned air into the ductwork while subsequently forcing the stale air back into the return vents.

High-horsepower blower motors are able to circulate the air more quickly than their low-horsepower counterparts. They turn the blower fan using more force. This increased force creates faster air circulation.

A high-horsepower blower motor will push air through the ductwork more quickly than a low-horsepower blower motor, but it may come at the cost of increased energy usage. Many of them consume more energy than low-horsepower blower motors.

The blower motor, though, will only consume energy when the blower fan is running. If you aren’t running the blower fan, it won’t consume energy. Furthermore, there are plenty of energy-efficient blower motors available, many of which have a high horsepower specification.

In Conclusion

If you’re looking to upgrade or replace your existing blower motor, you should choose the right horsepower. Blower motors are available in different horsepower specifications. Like with automotive engines, horsepower is a measurement of a blower motor’s power. The higher the horsepower, the more powerful the blower motor.

Did You Know? How Furnaces Vent Exhaust Gases

Gas furnaces require an exhaust system. Like other gas-powered appliances, they consume gas. They burn gas – typically natural gas – inside of a heat exchanger to create warm air. Exhaust gases, however, will be created as a byproduct of this process. If you have a gas furnace, it will create exhaust gases during use. An exhaust system will ensure that these exhaust gases are safely routed to the exterior of your home rather than building up inside of your home.

Standard-Efficiency Furnace Exhaust Systems

Different types of gas furnaces use different types of exhaust systems. Standard-efficiency gas furnaces – furnaces with an Annual Fuel Utilization Efficiency (AFUE) rating of below 90 – use a traditional flue pipe. The flue pipe runs from the heat exchanger to the roof.

Exhaust gases will build up inside of the heat exchanger while the gas furnace is running. The pressure difference between the heat exchanger and the flue pipe will force the exhaust gases to enter the flue pipe. From there, the exhaust gases will continue to rise up and through the flue pipe. The flue pipe will typically have an exit point on the roof, which is where the exhaust gases will be released.

High-Efficiency Furnace Exhaust Systems

High-efficiency gas furnaces require an exhaust system as well, but most of them use a different type of exhaust system than their standard-efficiency counterparts.

Also known as condensing furnaces, high-efficiency gas furnaces feature two heat exchangers. They still burn gas inside of an initial heat exchanger. The exhaust gases from this initial heat exchanger, though, are transferred to a second heat exchanger where they burned again.

Exhaust gases typically consist of at least some unburned gas. This is particularly true for standard-efficiency gas furnaces. If you have a standard-efficiency gas furnace, it probably won’t burn all of the gas in the initial heat exchanger. Rather, it will leave behind some unburned gas as part of the exhaust gases.

High-efficiency gas furnaces are designed to squeeze more heat out of the gas. They will burn the gas in the initial heat exchanger, and then they’ll burn it again in a second heat exchanger. After burning the gas in two separate heat exchangers, high-efficiency gas furnaces will produce a liquid byproduct. In other words, they will convert the exhaust gases into liquid. This liquid byproduct will then be flushed through a drainage pipe that runs to your home’s exterior.

How to Get More Hot Water in Your Home

Are you unable to take showers without the water turning cold? While some people prefer cold showers, most prefer hot showers. A lack of hot water, though, will prevent you from using the hot water in your water. You can get more hot water, however, by following these tips.

Install Low-Flow Showerheads

For more hot water, you may want to install low-flow showerheads. Low-flow showerheads use less pressure than standard showerheads, so they won’t deplete your water heater as quickly as their standard counterparts. And according to the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA), replacing just a single standard showerhead with a WaterSense-labeled low-flow showerhead will save the average U.S. household 2,7000 gallons of water per year.

Adjust Your Water Heater’s Temperature

You can adjust your water heater’s temperature to get more hot water. Depending on the type of water heater you have, it may have a temperature dial near the bottom. You can turn this dial to adjust its temperature.

 Turning the dial to the right will typically make it warmer, whereas turning it to the left will make your water heater cooler. Raising the temperature of your water heater will allow you to less hot water, in which case it should last longer.

Upgrade Your Water Heater

If you’re tired of taking cold showers, you should consider upgrading your water heater. The size of your water heater’s tank will determine how much hot water you get. Some water heaters have a 30-gallon tank. Others have a 50- or 75-gallon tank. Installing a new water heater with a bigger tank will increase the available hot water.

Rather than upgrading to a new water heater with a bigger tank, you may want to upgrade to a tankless water heater. Tankless water heaters work on demand. They don’t store heated water. Instead, they heat the water as it’s needed.

Check the Insulation

Whether it’s a tank-based or tankless water heater, you may want to add insulation to it.  If your water heater is installed in a crawlspace or basement – or any other part of your home that’s not climate controlled – insulation can maximize its performance.

Insulation will keep the water warm as it travels through your heater. There are insulation blankets that you can wrap around your water heater. You can also add insulation to the hot water pipes in your home. With more insulation, you’ll get more hot water.

5 Reasons to Switch From a Gas to Electric Furnace

Are you thinking about upgrading your furnace? A furnace is a heating device that consumes energy to produce warm air. Some furnaces consume gas, whereas others consume electricity. If you currently have a gas furnace, you may want to switch to an electric furnace. Electric furnaces offer several benefits.

#1) Inexpensive

Electric furnaces are inexpensive. They typically cost less than gas furnaces. If you’re on a budget, you may want to choose an electric furnace. You can purchase a new electric furnace – and you can have it installed – for less than the cost of a new gas furnace.

#2) Consolidated Utility Bills

You can consolidate your monthly utility bills by switching to an electric furnace. Gas furnaces produce warm air by burning natural gas. They are gas appliances that, like other gas appliances, are connected to a natural gas line. If your furnace is the only gas appliance in your home, switching to an electric furnace will consolidate your utility bills. You’ll only get an electricity bill rather than an electricity bill and a natural gas bill.

#3) Safety

Electric furnaces are considered safer than gas furnaces. They are less like to cause structure fires, and since they run on electricity, they don’t produce carbon monoxide (CO).

Gas furnaces aren’t necessarily dangerous. When properly maintained, they can be just as safe as electric furnaces. They will vent the CO and other combustion gases out through a pipe. Nonetheless, electric furnaces are still favored by many homeowners because they don’t produce CO.

#4) Energy Efficiency

Energy efficiency is another reason to consider switching from a gas furnace to an electric furnace. They are more energy efficient than gas furnaces. Some electric furnaces have an annual fuel utilization efficiency (AFUE) rating of 100%. In other words, all of the electricity consumed by electric furnaces goes towards producing warm air.

Furnaces with a lower AFUE rating will lose some of their energy during this process. Gas furnaces typically don’t have a 100% AFUE rating.  Some of them may have an 85% or 90% AFUE rating, but they won’t reach 100%.

#5) Saves Space

Switching from a gas furnace to an electric furnace may save space in your home. Most electric furnaces are smaller than gas furnaces. They feature a simpler design consisting of a heating element, whereas gas furnaces have a burner, combustion chamber and other parts. Because they are simpler, electric furnaces are smaller and, thus, take up less space.

Automatic Fan Switches Explained

Modern air conditioning systems are equipped with a variety of useful, energy-saving features. Some of them have a variable-speed compressor, for instance. A variable-speed compressor is a type of air conditioning compressor that adjusts its performance automatically based on cooling demand.

An automatic-delay fan switch is another energy-saving feature commonly found in modern air conditioning systems. If you’re looking to upgrade your air conditioning system, you may want to choose a model with this feature. Like a variable-speed compressor, an automatic delay-fan switch can cut your cooling costs.

The Purpose of an Automatic-Delay Fan Switch

An automatic-delay fan switch is a device that keeps the blower running for a short period after an air conditioning system has turned off. Most air conditioning systems are synched with blowers. The blower will run while they run. The blower will turn off, conversely, when the air conditioning systems turn off.

If your air conditioning system has an automatic-delay fan switch, the blower will continue to run after it has turned off. It will create a timed delay for the blower. The blower will turn off after a few minutes as determined by the automatic-delay fan switch.

How an Automatic-Delay Fan Switch Works

An automatic-delay fan switch works by keeping the blower running for a short period after the air conditioning system has turned off. Most automatic-delay fan switches are set to a few minutes. When your air conditioning system turns off, the blower will continue to run for a few minutes before turning off.

Thermostats, of course, have an “ON” setting and an “AUTO” setting. The “ON” setting. The “ON” setting will override an automatic delay-delay fan switch. If you use the “ON” setting, the blower will continue to run, regardless of whether your air conditioning system is running. With the “AUTO” setting, the blower will turn off after a short period once your air conditioning system has turned off.

The Energy-Savings Benefits of an Automatic-Delay Fan Switch

How can an automatic-delay fan switch make air conditioning systems more energy-efficient exactly? It will force the cool and conditioned air out of the ductwork.

Your air conditioning system will consume energy to create cool air. The cool air will initially enter the ductwork before being distributed throughout the rooms in your home. If the blower turns off immediately when your air conditioning system turns off, some of this cool and conditioned air will remain stuck inside of the ductwork. An automatic-delay fan switch prevents this from happening by keeping the blower running for a short period.

3 Ways to Prepare Your Gas Fireplace for Winter

Is your gas fireplace ready for the cold weather? With winter right around the corner, you should use this opportunity to prepare it for the cold weather. Most homeowners neglect their gas fireplace during the warmer months of the year. When they try to light it for the first time during winter, they may encounter problems. Here are several ways to prepare your gas fireplace for winter.

Inspect the Insert

If your gas fireplace has an insert, you should inspect it for damage. Inserts are fireboxes that serve as an enclosure. While they are typically made of metal – stainless steel is the most common material in which inserts are made – they often feature a glass screen.

The glass screen on the front of an insert can crack. To prepare your gas fireplace for winter, check it for signs of damage such as this. If you notice any cracks, chips or other forms of damage in the glass screen, you should replace it.

Test the Flue Damper

You should test the flue damper as well. Flue dampers are valves that control airflow into and out of the chimney. Closing the flue damper will seal your chimney so that air won’t be able to leak into and out of your home. Opening the flue damper will remove this seal, thus allowing smoke and combustion gases from your gas fireplace to escape.

Rather than waiting until winter, you should go ahead and test the flue damper. Make sure that you can open and close the flue damper. If the flue damper is stuck in the closed position, you won’t be able to safely use your gas fireplace.

Clean Your Gas Logs

To prepare your gas fireplace for winter, you should get your gas logs professionally cleaned. Dust and debris will collect on the surface of your gas logs. Rather than allowing this dust and debris to go unchecked, you should get your gas logs professionally cleaned.

Attempting to clean your gas logs yourself may lead to problems. Since they will be exposed to a flame, gas logs require special cleaning products. Furthermore, they must be properly positioned over the flame. Using the wrong cleaning product may lead to air pollution, and arranging gas logs incorrectly may lead to a weak fire.

A professional gas log cleaning service will also give you peace of mind knowing that there’s nothing wrong with your gas fireplace. During the cleaning service, a technician will inspect your gas fireplace.

What Are Electrostatic Air Filters?

It’s estimated that the air inside of most homes and buildings is up to five times more polluted than the outdoor air, according to the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA). While you can’t control levels of outdoor air pollution, you can control levels of indoor air pollution. Using a high-quality air filter in your heating, ventilation and cooling (HVAC) will result in cleaner air. Instead of a pleated air filter, though, you may want to use an electrostatic air filter.

Overview of Electrostatic Air Filters

Electrostatic air filters are HVAC-installed air filters that leverage static electricity to filter the air. They are designed to fit into air handlers or furnaces where they remove pollutants from the air. As air flows them, electrostatic air filters will generate static electricity. Pollutants in the air will then remain stuck inside of electrostatic air filters.

How Electrostatic Air Filters Work

They may look like conventional pleated air filters, but electrostatic air filters use a different method of operation. Electrostatic air filters consist of multiple layers. The first layer is typically a pre-filter. The second layer is an ionizer. The first layer is a collector.

Air will initially flow through the pre-filter, which will remove some of the large particulate matter from the air. Air will then flow through the ionizer layer. The ionizer layer will add an electric charge to the air so that sticks to the electrostatic air filter. Finally, air will flow through the collector. The collector layer is designed to hold the electrically charged air. Pollutants in the air will remain stuck inside of the collector layer, thus allowing clean air to exit the filter.

Is an Electrostatic Air Filter Work It?

Now that you know what they are, you might be wondering if an electrostatic air filter is worth it. You can save money by switching to an electrostatic air filter. While pleated air filters are disposable, electrostatic air filters are washable. You can use an electrostatic air filter for many years as long as you keep it clean.

Electrostatic air filters are highly effective at removing pollutants from the air. They are available in high Minimum Efficiency Reporting Value (MERV) ratings. Therefore, they can filter small, fine particles from the air.

Most electrostatic air filters are interchangeable with pleated air filters. Even if your HVAC system currently uses a pleated air filter, it probably supports an electrostatic air filter. You just need to choose an electrostatic air filter in the right dimensional size.

6 Cooling Mistakes to Avoid With Your AC System

Air conditioning systems can last for a long time when properly maintained. Modern air conditioning systems, in fact, have an average lifespan of about 10 to 20 years. Some of them will even last longer. To protect your air conditioning system from premature wear and tear, though, you should avoid these cooling systems.

#1) Closing Supply Vents

Closing the supply vents in your home can take a toll on your air conditioning system.  If you close all of the supply vents for an unoccupied room, pressure will build up inside of the ductwork. Too much pressure can damage the ductwork, resulting in costly air leaks.

#2) Opening the Windows

Avoid opening the windows when running your air conditioning system. Even if you only crack the windows, it will allow the conditioned air to escape your home. The cool and conditioned air will escape through the windows, and it will be replaced by warm air.

#3) Running the Blower 24/7

Another cooling mistake to avoid is running the blower all the time. The blower is a fan. You can control it at the thermostat. Even if your air conditioning system isn’t running, you can run the blower by choosing the “ON” setting. But running the blower all the time won’t create a cooler interior; it will simply consume energy while blowing room-temperature air throughout your home.

#4) Using a Dirty Air Filter

Perhaps the most common cooling mistake homeowners make is using a dirty air filter. Air filters will inevitably get dirty. After all, they work by catching particulate matter from the air. If you don’t change the air filter, it may get so dirty that it restricts airflow.

#5) Overlooking the Condensate Drain

Don’t overlook the condensate drain. If you have a central air conditioning system with an indoor unit and an outdoor unit, it will have a condensate drain. The condensate drain is located near the indoor unit, which is the evaporator coil. Like most types of drains, it can get clogged. A clogged condensate drain can cause water to back up at the evaporator coil.

#6) Neglecting an Annual Inspection

About once a year, schedule a professional inspection for your air conditioning system. Some homeowners neglect an annual inspection. Rather, they wait until their air conditioning system stops working to contact a professional. You can protect your air conditioning system from failure by getting it professionally inspected at least once a year.

What Is a Crankcase Heater and How Does It Work?

Depending on the type of heating, ventilation and cooling system (HVAC) that’s installed in your home, it may have a crankcase heater. It’s a common part of many heat pumps and some air conditioning systems. The crankcase heater is located outdoor in the condenser unit. Even if aren’t running your heat pump or air conditioning system, the crankcase heater may turn on.

What Is a Crankcase Heater?

A crankcase heater is an electrical device that’s designed to warm up the crankcase of a compressor. Both heat pumps and air conditioning systems have a compressor. As refrigerant flows through the compressor, it will become hotter and more pressurized.

Some compressors are equipped with a crankcase heater. The crankcase heater is mounted to the bottom of the crankcase. Like other heating devices, it generates heat. The crankcase heater will radiate heat into the crankcase.

How a Crankcase Heater Works?

Crankcase heaters work by generating heat when the compressor isn’t running. They feature a heating element that’s powered by electricity. Electricity allows crankcase heaters to produce heat.

Most crankcase heaters will only turn on at the end of a cooling cycle. They won’t produce heat while your heat pump or air conditioning system is running. Instead, the crankcase heater will wait until your heat pump or air conditioning system has stopped running. The crankcase heater will automatically turn on at the end of a cooling cycle, and it will automatically turn off at the beginning of a cooling cycle.

The Purpose of a Crankcase Heater

Some compressors require a crankcase heater. In cold environments, for instance, a crankcase heater can protect compressors from various problems. It will prevent refrigerant from mixing with the compressor oil.

Refrigerant has a tendency to migrate to the crankcase – the part of a compressor that contains the oil – in cold temperatures. And because the crankcase is located outdoors, it’s susceptible to cold temperatures. Refrigerant may migrate to the crankcase where it mixes with the compressor oil. A crankcase heater will prevent this from happening by keeping the crankcase warm.

Crankcase heaters promote proper viscosity of the compressor oil. The temperature of the compressor oil will affect its viscosity. At low temperatures, it will be less viscous. At high temperatures, the compressor oil will be more viscous, meaning it will flow more easily.

With a crankcase heater, the compressor oil will maintain proper viscosity. It won’t become too cold. Rather, the compressor oil will stay warm enough so that it easily flows through the crankcase.

The Importance of Regular Water Heater Inspections

A functional water is something that many homeowners take for granted. When you turn on the hot water in your home, you expect it to come out hot. Water heaters, however, can fail. Fortunately, you can extend the lifespan of your water heater by getting it professionally inspected at least once a year.

Test the T&P Valve

A water heater inspection may include testing the T&P valve. All tank-style water heaters have a pressure relief valve. Known as the T&P valve, it’s designed to relieve excess pressure. If the T&P valve sticks in the closed position, pressure may build up inside of your water heater to dangerous levels. An annual inspection will give you peace of mind knowing that the T&P valve works as intended.

Flushing

During an inspection, the technician may recommend flushing. It will reduce the risk of blockages. Water may contain minerals like calcium and limestone. As water flows through your water heater, it may leave behind these minerals. The accumulation of these minerals can create blockages that restrict or prevent water from flowing properly.

Flushing will remove mineral deposits from your water heater. If your water heater needs flushing, the technician may recommend it. The technician may even offer to go ahead and flush your water heater during the inspection.

Prevent Leaks

A leaking water heater can result in costly damage to your home’s interior. It can flood the surrounding space while creating breeding grounds for mold and pests. To prevent leaks, you should get your water heater inspected at least once a year.

Ensure Gas Ventilation

If you have a gas-powered water heater, the technician will check to make sure it’s properly ventilated during an inspection. Gas-powered water heaters burn natural gas. During this process, they’ll create combustion gases like carbon monoxide. These combustion gases must be properly ventilated to your home’s exterior.

Energy Optimization

Another reason water heater inspections are important is energy optimization. The technician can adjust and optimize your water heater so that it’s energy efficient.

Whether gas or electric, water heaters consume energy. Gas water burn natural gas via a pilot light, whereas electric water heaters consume electricity via a heating element. Regardless of what type of water heater you have, regular inspections can make it more energy efficient.

Most importantly perhaps, regular inspections will extend the lifespan of your water heater. You’ll get more use out of your water heater with regular inspections.

Can Heavy Rain Damage Your AC System?

While not on the same level as Seattle, Atlanta and the surrounding metropolitan area gets its fair share of rain. Statistics show Atlanta’s annual rainfall is about 40 to 50 inches per year. During periods of heavy rain, your air conditioning system will get wet. As a homeowner, you might be wondering if heavy rain can damage your air conditioning system.

AC Parts Exposed to Rain

Air conditioning systems contain dozens of parts, most of which are located indoors where they are protected from the rain. Only the condenser unit – as well as the refrigerant lines to which it’s connected – is installed outdoors.

Most of your air conditioning system’s parts are located indoors. The evaporator coil, blower, filter and ductwork, for instance, are all located indoors. Therefore, they won’t sustain damage from heavy rain The only part that’s installed outdoors is the condenser unit.

The Condenser Unit Can Withstand Rain

Your air conditioning system’s condenser unit can withstand rain. Whether it’s light or heavy rain, it won’t damage the condenser unit.

Condenser units are large metal boxes with a perforated, semi-open design. This semi-open design allows them to release heat. Hot refrigerant will flow to the condenser coil. A fan will blow air over the condenser coil to release heat from the refrigerant. With a semi-open design, hot air will escape out of the condenser unit.

Heavy rain means that water will enter your air conditioning system’s condenser unit. Water will trickle in through the perforated sides. Fortunately, condenser units are designed so that water will drain out of them.

Beware of Flooding

You don’t have to worry about heavy rain damaging your air conditioning system’s condenser unit, but flooding is a different story. Flooding can cause serious and costly damage.

There are electrical parts inside of the condenser unit, such as the fan and compressor. Even during periods of heavy rain, water shouldn’t reach the electrical contacts of these parts. As it enters the condenser unit, water will flow out of the bottom of the condenser unit.

Flooding, though, may result in your air conditioning system’s condenser coil being submerged. If the surrounding landscape is flooded with 5 inches of water, the condenser coil may have 5 inches of freestanding water inside of it. Some of this water can find its way to electrical parts inside of the condenser unit where it damages them.

Heavy rain isn’t a concern for your air conditioning system. Only the condenser unit will get wet, but it’s designed to withstand rain. With that said, flooding can damage the condenser unit. If your home was recently flooded, you may want to get your air conditioning system inspected by a professional.

Static Pressure: Everything You Need to Know

Heating, ventilation and cooling (HVAC) systems leverage fans to circulate air throughout the homes and buildings in which they are installed. From the moment your HVAC system turns on, a fan will begin to blow air throughout your home. High static pressure, though, may hinder its ability to circulate fan. The fan may still spin, but it won’t be able to perform its intended function with high static pressure.

What is Static Pressure?

Static pressure is a measurement of airflow resistance. It represents the amount of force or pressure a fan needs to generate to circulate air. Low static pressure means the fan needs to generate a minimal amount of pressure to circulate air. High static pressure, conversely, means the fan needs to generate more pressure to circulate air.

HVAC technicians measure static pressure using a device known as a manometer. Some manometers feature transducers, whereas others feature a tube of liquid. Using a manometer, HVAC technicians can determine how much pressure a fan needs to generate to circulate air.

How Static Pressure Affects Your HVAC System

Now that you know the definition of static pressure, you might be wondering how it affects your HVAC system. Low static pressure isn’t a concern. With low static pressure, the fan will be able to easily push – as well as pull – air throughout your home. But high static pressure can lead to other problems.

You may notice hot and cold spots in your home with high static pressure. Static pressure represents how much work your HVAC system’s fan must perform to circulate air. If it’s too high, the fan may struggle to circulate air. It may blow conditioned air into some rooms but not others. Any room that receives little or no conditioned air will suffer from hot or cold spots.

Your HVAC system may require more frequent maintenance with high static pressure. It will strain many of your HVAC system’s parts, including the fan and compressor. When left unchecked, these parts may fail. To protect your HVAC system from premature failure, you need to ensure that the static pressure is low.

High static pressure will make your HVAC system less efficient. Fans consume energy. With high static pressure, the fan will have to run for a longer period. Whether you’re trying to cool or warm your home, high static pressure will make your HVAC system less efficient.