6 Myths About HVAC Dampers Debunked

You shouldn’t believe everything you hear about heating, ventilation and cooling (HVAC) dampers. Dampers are a common part of many residential HVAC systems. Because they are concealed within the ductwork, though, most homeowners rarely see them. Here are six common myths about HVAC dampers.

#1) Included in All Centralized HVAC Systems

While all centralized HVAC systems have ductwork, not all of them have dampers. Dampers are typically found in zoned HVAC systems. With a zoned HVAC system, you can control the temperature of different parts of your home, such as the ground floor and the second level. Each controllable part is a zone. Zoning is achieved with dampers that block and reroute conditioned air to where it’s needed.

#2) Located Near Supply Vents

Some homeowners assume that HVAC dampers are located near supply vents. In most HVAC systems, they are found closer toward the evaporator coil and blower within the ductwork. By installing HVAC dampers farther away from the supply vents, they are able to block more air.

#3) Require Manual Operation

There are both manually operated HVAC dampers and automatic HVAC dampers. Manually operated HVAC dampers typically feature a lever. You can pull this lever to open or close them. To prevent air from entering a ductwork conduit, for instance, you can close the HVAC damper. Automatic HVAC dampers, conversely, open and close automatically in response to the thermostat settings.

#4) Not Worth the Cost

HVAC dampers aren’t free, but they are oftentimes a smart investment. They will make your HVAC system more energy efficient. HVAC dampers will separate your home into zones. If a floor or zone is unoccupied, you don’t need to cool or warm it. Therefore, you’ll save money on cooling and heating expenses.

#5) All HVAC Dampers Are the Same

There are many different types of HVAC dampers. They are all designed to control the passage of air. Nonetheless, some HVAC dampers feature a different design than others. Common types of HVAC dampers include butterfly, modulating, collar and blade. Each type features a unique design that sets it apart from the rest.

#6) Best to Leave Open

You shouldn’t necessarily leave HVAC dampers open. If they are open, conditioned air will pass through them and into the connected rooms. Other parts of your home will then receive less conditioned air, which could result in higher cooling and heating expenses. To take advantage of their energy-savings properties, you should typically close the dampers connected to unoccupied rooms.

The True Cost of a Dirty Air Filter

Air filters in heating, ventilation and cooling (HVAC) systems don’t last forever. While available in different materials, sizes and filtration ratings, they all require changing. Your HVAC system’s air filter will remove pollutants from the air. Over time, these pollutants will accumulate within the fibers of the air filter. Failure to change a dirty air filter such as this could cost you in more ways than one.

Longer Cooling Cycles

With a dirty air filter, you can expect longer cooling cycles when running the air conditioning system. A cooling cycle is a period for which an air conditioning system runs. Most cooling cycles last for about 10 to 20 minutes. After turning on, for instance, a typical air conditioning system will run for up to 20 minutes before turning off.

Several factors can affect the length of cooling cycles. If your air conditioning system is too small for your home, it will experience long cooling cycles. A dirty air filter can cause long cooling cycles as well. It will restrict airflow through the ducts, so your air conditioning system won’t be able to efficiently cool your home. And with longer cooling cycles, you’ll have to pay more to cool your home this summer.

Increased Wear and Tear on Fans

Your air conditioning system’s fans will be exposed to greater wear and tear with a dirty air filter. Air conditioning systems have two fans: a blower near the evaporator coil and a condenser fan in the outdoor unit.

Whenever your air conditioning system is running, both of these fans will spin. If you have the fan set to “ON” at the thermostat, the blower near the evaporator coil will run indefinitely – or at least until you switch the thermostat back to the “AUTO” fan setting. Regardless, a dirty air filter can take a toll on your air conditioning system’s fans.

Frozen Coils

There’s the potential for frozen coils with a dirty air filter. The condenser coil and evaporator coil rely on proper airflow to facilitate the transfer heat. Coils are heat exchangers that, like other heat exchangers, work by transferring heat.

If you haven’t changed the air filter in several months, airflow may be restricted. Dirty air filters create resistance. They slow down the speed at which air flows through them. And with restricted airflow, you may discover frozen coils. Frozen coils are a concern because they can damage your air conditioning system’s compressor. The compressor may fail if your air conditioning system’s coils freeze up, in which case you’ll have to pay to fix or replace the compressor.

Start vs Run Capacitors: What's the Difference?

Not all air conditioning system capacitors are the same. There are different types of capacitors in air conditioning systems, including start and run. If either of them fail, you could be left with an uncomfortably hot home during the summer. Start and run capacitors provide an initial jolt of electricity so that your air conditioning system can cool your home.

What Is a Start Capacitor?

A start capacitor is a device that’s designed to store and supply electricity to an air conditioning system so that it will turn on. Air conditioning systems are powered by electricity. Your home’s electrical system, however, may struggle to provide a sufficient amount of electricity during startup. Therefore, a start capacitor will help to power up your air conditioning system.

What Is a Run Capacitor?

A run capacitor is a device that stores and supplies the necessary electricity to keep the fan motor running. Most air conditioning systems have a single start capacitor and a single run capacitor. Alternatively, they may have a dual capacitor that functions as both a start and run capacitor.

Run capacitors are designed to maintain the charge needed to keep air conditioning systems running. Your air conditioning system will switch from the start capacitor to the run capacitor after it turns on.

Differences Between Start and Run Capacitors

Start and run capacitors are energy-storing devices. They store electricity in conductors, which they supply to air conditioning systems. What’s the difference between start and run capacitors?

Start capacitors operate before run capacitors. Your air conditioning system will require electricity from a start capacitor to begin its cooling cycle. The start capacitor will provide a jolt of electricity so that your air conditioning system’s electrical components – blower fan, condenser fan, compressor, etc. – will turn on.

Run capacitors operate after start capacitors. Your air conditioning system will draw electricity from the run capacitor after it turns on. It will use the start capacitor, after which your air conditioning system will use the run capacitor.

Capacitor Failure: What You Should Know

Capacitors can fail. They are one of the most common parts of a typical residential air conditioning system, in fact, that needs to be replaced. If your air conditioning system has a bad capacitor, it may not turn on. Alternatively, it may turn off unexpectedly or experience poor cooling performance.

While you can’t always prevent capacitors from failing, you can get them replaced. Swapping out a bad capacitor with a new capacitor will restore your air conditioning system.

What Is an AC Service Valve?

Air conditioning systems often require servicing. Maybe your air conditioning system has low pressure, or perhaps it has a refrigerant leak. For refrigerant-related servicing such as this, a service valve may be used. What are service valves exactly, and how do they work?

Service Valves Defined

A service valve is an accessible port that allows heating, ventilation and cooling (HVAC) technicians to service the refrigerant in an air conditioning system. They are typically made of copper tubing. Most service valves have several ports. Refrigerant will flow through some of these ports, and HVAC technicians can access other ports.

HVAC technicians can connect equipment to service valves to perform refrigerant-related servicing. They can use service valves to adjust refrigerant levels, for instance. If there’s too much refrigerant in your air conditioning system, HVAC technicians can lower the refrigerant level by accessing a service valve. If there’s not enough refrigerant in your air conditioning system, on the other hand, they can increase the refrigerant level by accessing a service valve.

HVAC technicians can also perform tests using service valves. They can test the pressure of refrigerant gas, for example, by connecting the appropriate equipment to a service valve.

Where Service Valves Are Located

You can find service valves in refrigerant lines. Most residential air conditioning systems have several service valves. They have a suction valve and a discharge service valve on the suction and discharge refrigerant lines, respectively. You may also discover a third service valve, known as a king service valve, on the receiver outlet.

The 3 Positions of Service Valves

Service valves support different positions. Adjusting a service valve will change its position. Common positions supported by service valves include back seated, mid seated and front seated.

The back seated position is used during normal operating conditions. The service port is sealed when a service valve is adjusted to the back seated position. The mid seated and front seated positions are used during servicing. When adjusted to the mid seated position, HVAC technicians can access the service port.

In Conclusion

If your air conditioning system has a refrigerant-related problem, an HVAC technician may use one or more service valves to fix it. Service valves are ports in refrigerant lines. They provide an access point for HVA technicians. Rather than disconnecting the compressor or other air conditioning components, HVAC technicians can connect directly to a service valve to perform refrigerant-related servicing.

Don’t Overlook HSPF Ratings When Buying a Heat Pump

If you’re planning on buying a heat pump in the near future, you should pay close attention to its Heating Seasonal Performance Factor (HSPF) rating. Most air-source heat pumps have an HSPF rating. It represents heating efficiency. By choosing a heat pump with a high HSPF rating, you can rest assured knowing that it will efficiently heat your home without wasting energy.

What Is an HSPF Rating?

An HSPF rating is a measurement of an air-sourced heat pump’s heating efficiency. It ranges from about 8 to 13. The higher a heat pump’s HSPF rating, the more efficient it is at converting energy into heat.

Heat pumps, of course, work by transferring heat. They can cool homes by transferring indoor heat to the outside. Heat pumps can also warm homes by transferring outdoor heat to the inside. Whether a heat pump is in cooling or heating mode, though, it will consume electricity.

HSPF ratings provide insight into the heating efficiency of heat pumps. They take into account total heating output during the fall and winter seasons as well as the total energy consumption during this same period.

HSPF vs SEER Ratings

In addition to HSPF, you may come across Seasonal Energy Efficiency Ratio (SEER) ratings. Many heat pumps feature an HSPF rating and a SEER rating, both of which are measurements of efficiency. What’s the difference between these two ratings exactly?

SEER ratings represent cooling efficiency. You can find them on air conditioning systems. Air conditioning systems consume energy to cool indoor spaces, so they typically feature a SEER rating. And like air conditioning systems, heat pumps can cool indoor spaces. You can refer to a heat pump’s SEER rating to determine its cooling efficiency.

Why You Should Choose a Heat Pump With a High HSPF Rating

You can’t ignore the importance of a high HSPF rating when choosing a heat pump. It will save you money on your home’s heating costs.

Heat pumps offer two modes: cooling and heating. When set to heating, heat pumps will consume more energy. They require more energy to transfer outdoor heat to the inside. A high HSPF rating indicates that a heat pump operates efficiently in heating mode.

The U.S. Department of Energy (DOE) now requires all new air-sourced residential heat pumps to have a minimum HSPF rating of 8.2. If your home has an older heat pump, you may want to replace it with a new heat pump that meets the DOE’s requirements.

5 Possible Reasons Your Condenser Fan Isn’t Spinning

Has your condenser fan stopped spinning? Consisting of a motorized fan with blades, it’s designed to release heat from the refrigerant in an air conditioning system. The condenser fan will blow air over the condenser coil while subsequently cooling the contained refrigerant. If it’s not spinning, though, it won’t be able to perform this task.

#1) Debris Buildup

If there’s debris around your condenser fan, it may not spin. The condenser fan is part of your air conditioning system’s condenser unit, which is located outdoors. Over time, dirt and leaves may accumulate around your condenser fan where it forms an obstruction.

#2) The Belt Bas Slipped or Broken

A slipped or broken belt may prevent your condenser fan from spinning. Many condenser fans – especially older models – feature a belt. The belt connects the motor to the condenser fan itself. The motor will turn the belt, which forces the condenser fan to spin. If your condenser fan has a slipped or broken belt, it may fail to spin.

#3) Blown Capacitor

Another possible reason your condenser fan isn’t spinning is a blown capacitor. Capacitors are small and simple electrical devices that are designed to store electricity. A capacitor will provide your condenser fan with the initial electricity it needs to turn on. After turning on, your condenser fan will then draw power from your home.

#4) Blown Motor

A blown motor will prevent your condenser fan from spinning. While there are different types of condenser fans, they all require the use of a motor. The motor is responsible for turning and spinning the condenser fan. Motors, of course, can fail. Maybe it has an oil leak, or perhaps the bearings in the motor have worn out. With a blown motor, your condenser fan won’t spin.

#5) Ice Buildup

The presence of ice on your air conditioning system’s coils can cause issues with the condenser fan. Being that air conditioning systems are designed to produce cool air, many homeowners assume that ice is normal. Whether it’s on your condenser coil, evaporator coil or both coils, though, ice isn’t normal. Rather, it’s a sign of an underlying. And if you don’t fix the problem that caused the ice, it may prevent your condenser fan from spinning.

Ice on any of the coils will force your air conditioning system to work harder. The increased strain on the condenser fan may then force it to shut off. The condenser fan may shut off automatically, in which case it won’t spin.

How Overcharging Can Damage Your AC System

One of the most common causes of air conditioning system failure is a refrigerant leak. Refrigerant facilitates heat transfer. As it flows through an air conditioning system, it will transfer heat from inside of the home to the outside. A leak will result in low refrigerant levels that restricts or prevents the transfer heat.

Too much refrigerant can cause problems as well. Your air conditioning system needs refrigerant to transfer heat. If it’s overcharged, however, it may still fail to cool your home.

What Is Overcharging?

Overcharging is the act of overfilling an air conditioning system with too much refrigerant. Air conditioning systems are designed to hold a limited amount of refrigerant. Most of them are rated for about 3 pounds of refrigerant per ton of cooling capacity. A 2-ton air conditioning system will hold about 6 pounds of refrigerant, whereas a 3-ton air conditioning system will hold about 9 pounds of refrigerant.

An air conditioning system is considered overcharged if it’s been overfilled with refrigerant. Charging is the process of filling an air conditioning system with refrigerant. Overcharging simply means that too much refrigerant was pumped into the air conditioning system.

An amateur or unqualified heating, ventilation and cooling (HVAC) technician may accidentally pump too much refrigerant into your air conditioning system, in which case your air conditioning system will be overcharged.

The Impact of Overcharging

If your air conditioning system is overcharged, it may struggle to cool your home. Refrigerant is designed to cycle between a gaseous and liquid state. When overcharged, it may fail to cycle properly. Refrigerant may stay in a liquid state, so it will transfer less heat from inside of your home to the outside.

You’ll probably experience higher utility bills during the summer with an overcharged air conditioning system. Overcharging will make your air conditioning system run longer. Since it will transfer heat, your air conditioning system will have to run for a longer period. And the longer it runs, the higher your utility bills will be.

The compressor may fail if your air conditioning system is overcharged. Your air conditioning system is designed to contain refrigerant in a closed, sealed environment. The compressor is part of this environment. If your air conditioning system is overcharged, excess and liquid refrigerant may accumulate inside of the compressor.

To ensure proper cooling – and to protect the compressor from damage – you need to avoid overcharging your air conditioning system.

How Heat Waves Affect AC Systems

Is your air conditioning system ready for the next heat wave? Heat waves are common in the Southeast. Defined as a period of extreme heat lasting for two more consecutive days, they cause more than just discomfort; heat waves can stress air conditioning systems. By understanding how heat waves affect air conditioning systems, you can perform the necessary preventative maintenance to stay cool during extreme heat.

Longer Cooling Cycles

During a heat wave, your air conditioning system will likely experience longer cooling cycles. A cooling cycle is simply a period for which your air conditioning system runs. It begins when your air conditioning system initially turns on, and the cooling cycle ends when your air conditioning system turns off.

A heat wave will typically cause longer cooling cycles. Your air conditioning system will have to run for a longer period to achieve a comfortable temperature.

Compressor Strain

A heat wave will strain your air conditioning system’s compressor. To cool your home, your air conditioning system uses refrigerant. Refrigerant will absorb heat from your home’s interior. The compressor will then compress the refrigerant so that it becomes even hotter. The hotter the refrigerant, the more heat it will release, which is essentially how air conditioning systems work.

Extreme heat, though, will strain your air conditioning system’s compressor. The oil inside of it may overheat, resulting in friction-related damage. Compressors contain oil to lubricate their moving parts. While the oil can withstand some level of heat, excessive heat may degrade or dissipate it. And without oil, your air conditioning system’s compressor will be susceptible to friction-related damage.

More Condensation

Your air conditioning system will produce more condensation during a heat wave. Air conditioning condensation is affected by two things: indoor humidity and cooling power.

Humidity is moisture vapor in the air. During a heat wave, your home will typically become more humid. Your air conditioning system will also work overtime as it tries to cool your home. With high indoor humidity and high cooling power, your air conditioning system will produce more condensation. It will extract more moisture vapor out of the indoor air at the evaporator coil.

If you’re worried about an upcoming heat wave taking a toll on your air conditioning system, schedule an appointment for an inspection. A professional inspection will give you peace of mind knowing that your air conditioning system is ready for the next heat wave.

Is a Condensate Pump Necessary for Mini-Split AC Systems?

A condensate pump is a common part of many residential air conditioning systems. It will remove condensation from around the evaporator coil. As warm and moist air passes over the evaporator coil, condensation will form. Water molecules will condense on the evaporator coil. The condensate pump will help to remove this water so that it doesn’t cause mold or other forms of damage to the surrounding area.

If you have a mini-split system, though, you might be wondering whether it needs a condensate pump. Mini-split systems are simpler than central air conditioning systems. They still have an evaporator coil and condenser coil, but they don’t have any ductwork.

What Is a Condensate Pump?

A condensate pump is a device that’s designed to pump and move water from one place to another place. Also known as an air conditioning drain pump, it forces water in the condensate pan to drain.

The condensate pan is a metal pan below the evaporator coil. Water will drip down into it from the evaporator coil. The condensate pan contains a drain line that runs to the outside. The condensate pump is designed to force the freestanding water in the condensate pan into the drain line so that it exits the home.

Some Mini-Split AC Systems Require a Condensate Pump

Lile with central air conditioning systems, some mini-split air systems require a condensate pump. Whether a mini-split air conditioning system needs a condensate pump depends on the design of its condensate pan and drain line.

A condensate pump is only required if water doesn’t drain from the condensate pan naturally. Mini-split systems still feature an evaporator coil, and they still have a condensate pan underneath the evaporator coil. The only difference is that central air conditioning systems have ductwork, whereas mini-split systems do not.

Depending on where the mini-split system’s condensate pan is installed, water may or may not drain from it naturally. If the condensate pan is installed in the attic, gravity may cause it to drain naturally. As long as the drain line runs down, water won’t accumulate inside of the condensate pan; it will drain naturally thanks to gravity.

Gravity, of course, can only pull water downward. If a mini-split system’s condensate pan is installed on a lower level floor and the drain line exits the home on an upper floor, it may require a condensate pump.

Even if it’s not required, a condensate pump is always a smart investment. It will ensure that water drains out of the condensate pan. Whether you have a central air conditioning system or a mini-split system, you should consider using a condensate pump.

Why Your AC System’s Condenser Unit Needs Be Level

The next time you’re doing yard work, take a moment to inspect your air conditioning system’s condenser unit. It’s a large box-shaped unit that contains a condenser coil, compressor and fan. Regardless of where it’s installed, it needs to be level. If the condenser unit is tilted or otherwise unlevel, it can lead to several problems with your air conditioning system.

Keeps the Compressor Lubricated

Whether reciprocating or scroll, all compressors contain moving parts. To protect these moving parts from damage, they require lubrication in the form of oil. Your air conditioning system’s condenser unit needs to be level so that the compressor stays lubricated.

When the condenser unit is level, the compressor will be evenly lubricated. The oil inside of the compressor will be level – just like the condenser unit. The oil will lubricate both sides of the compressor. If the condenser unit is unlevel, the oil may only lubricate one side of the compressor.

Protects the Compressor From Premature Failure

Your air conditioning system’s compressor may fail prematurely if the condenser unit is unlevel. When unlevel, it won’t be properly lubricated. Therefore, the compressor will be exposed to increased wear and tear as your air conditioning system runs.

Promotes Condensation Drainage

A level condenser unit promotes condensation drainage. Your air conditioning system will produce condensation at the evaporator coil. While the condenser coil is located outdoors in the condenser unit, the evaporator coil is located indoors.

As water condenses on the evaporator coil, it will drip down into a pan below. Known as a condensate pan, it will run to your home’s exterior via a drainage pipe. The drainage pipe is often connected to the condenser unit. If the condenser unit is unlevel, the drainage pipe may become unlevel as well. As a result, water may pool up inside of the drainage pipe.

Facilitates the Release of Heat

A level condenser unit facilitates the release of heat. Heat, of course, is released at the condenser coil, which is found inside of the condenser unit. Hot refrigerant will travel through the condenser coil, and as the fan blows over it, the refrigerant will release its heat.

Oil from the compressor, though, may escape the crankcase. Rather than staying inside of the compressor’s crankcase, it will enter the refrigerant lines that run to the coils. Normally, the oil will find its way back to the compressor. But if the condenser unit is unlevel, it may accumulate inside of the condenser coil – or other parts of your air conditioning system – where it hinders the release of heat.

5 Features to Look for in a Heat Pump

Heat pumps have become a popular alternative to traditional heating, ventilation and cooling (HVAC) systems. They consist of many of the same parts as an air conditioning system. Heat pumps, however, feature a reversing valve as well. The reversing valve allows the heat pump to change or reverse the direction of the refrigerant so that it can produce heat. If you’re thinking about buying a heat pump, you may want to consider the following features.

#1) Zoning

If you have a large home with two or more floors, you may want to choose a heat pump with zoning. Known as a zoned heat pump, it will allow you to control the temperature of different spaces in your home independently of each other. You may want to set the ground floor to 70 degrees Fahrenheit, for instance, and the second floor to 73 degrees Fahrenheit.

#2) Auxiliary Heat

Auxiliary heat is a useful feature to look for when choosing a heat pump. As the name suggests, auxiliary heat is backup heat. If it’s particularly cold outside, the heat pump will use a secondary source to generate heat. Auxiliary heat typically consists of strips that are electrically heated.

#3) Scroll Compressor

Like air conditioning systems, all heat pumps require a compressor. This cooling component is designed to compress the refrigerant. While most heat pumps and air conditioning systems use a reciprocating compressor, some of them use a scroll compressor. Scroll compressors feature two scrolls, one of which spins around the other, stationary scroll. Scroll compressors are quieter and better protected from premature wear and tear than reciprocating compressors.

#4) Desuperheater

Some heat pumps have a desuperheater. It’s a secondary heat exchanger that’s used to heat water. Heat pumps produce heat when operating in cooling mode. Normally, this heat is released outside. Heat pumps with a desuperheater, though, recycle this heat. They’ll pull heat from inside your home, and they’ll use this heat to create hot water. With a desuperheater, a heat pump can save you money on water heating expenses.

#5) Variable-Speed Blower

You may want to choose a heat pump with a variable-speed blower. Variable-speed blowers are highly energy efficient. When the heat pump initially turns on, the blower will operate at a slow speed. It will gradually speed up until it meets your heating or cooling demand. There are also fixed-speed blowers. Fixed-speed blowers operate at a single speed. They can’t speed up, nor can they can slow down.

An Introduction to Condenser Unit Covers for AC Systems

There are certain air conditioning system components that are constantly exposed to the elements. The condenser coil and compressor, for instance, are installed outdoors. You can find them in the condenser unit. The condenser unit is a large box-shaped housing unit that contains the condenser coil and compressor. Rather than leaving it exposed year-round, though, you can use a condenser unit cover.

What Is a Condenser Unit Cover?

A condenser unit cover is exactly what it sounds like: a cover for an air conditioning system’s condenser unit. Most of them are made of polyvinyl chloride (PVC). Condenser unit covers look like large PVC tarps. They are designed to fit over condenser units.

The Purpose of Condenser Unit Covers

During the winter, some homeowners use a condenser unit cover to protect their air conditioning system from damage. Homeowners who live in cold regions, for instance, may use a condenser unit cover to prevent snow from building up inside of this box-shaped housing unit. A condenser unit cover will shield the condenser – as well as its included components – from the snowy winter weather.

A condenser unit cover will also keep pests out of the condenser unit. Rodents may find their way inside of the condenser unit. If left unchecked, they may chew through the included wiring while causing serious damage. A condenser unit cover will discourage pests from entering this housing unit and damaging the wiring.

Another reason some homeowners use a condenser unit cover is to keep debris out of the condenser unit. It will shield the condenser unit from leaves, branches, dirt and other forms of debris.

Do You Really Need a Condenser Unit Cover?

A condenser unit cover isn’t needed for most air conditioning systems. Georgia is known for its mild winters. We may get a few snowy days once in a while, but snow is rare here in the Southeast. Therefore, you don’t have to worry about snow accumulating inside of your air conditioning system’s condenser unit.

If you’re planning on running your air conditioning system, you shouldn’t use a condenser unit cover. A condenser unit cover will interfere with your air conditioning system’s operations. It will insulate the condenser coil. The condenser coil, of course, is a heat exchanger. And like most heat exchangers, it shouldn’t be insulated. If the condenser coil is wrapped in a PVC cover, it won’t be able to release heat.

Anode Rods: An Important Part of Tank-Style Water Heaters

Tank-style water heaters consist of more than just a tank and heating element. They contain several other parts, including an anode rod. If your home is equipped with a tank-style water heater, it probably has an anode rod. The anode rod is an important part of nearly all tank-style water heaters.

What Is an Anode Rod?

An anode rod is a long rod-shaped part. It typically features a steel core that’s covered in either magnesium, zinc or aluminum.

You won’t be able to see the anode rod when inspecting your water heater. It’s found inside of the tank’s interior. To see the anode rod, you’ll have to drain and open up the tank. Because it’s concealed, many homeowners are unaware of the anode rod.

Why Tank-Style Water Heaters Need an Anode Rod

Tank-style water heaters need an anode rod to protect the tank’s interior against corrosion. The anode rod works by attracting iron, iron oxide, limestone and other contaminants. By doing so, the anode rod will protect the tank’s interior against corrosion.

Corrosion can cause serious damage to tank-style water heaters. It will eat through the metal from which the tank is made. If the tank is completely corroded, it may fail to hold pressurize. The anode rod prevents this from happening by attracting rust-causing contaminants in the water.

Anode rods attract rust-causing contaminants through a chemical process known as electrolysis. They will pull rust-causing contaminants out of the water. As the contaminants land on the anode rod, the anode rod will begin to corrode. Anode rods are sacrificial in this regard. They sacrifice themselves so that the tank’s interior will remain protected against corrosion.

What About Tankless Water Heaters?

While commonly found in tank-style water heaters, tankless water heaters don’t need an anode rod. Anode rods are designed specifically to protect the tank’s interior against corrosion. Tankless water heaters don’t have a tank, so they don’t need an anode rod.

If you have a tank-style water heater, you may need to replace the anode rod. Anode rods will corrode. After about three to five years, they may be completely corroded to the point where they no longer protect the tank’s interior from corrosion.

Of course, another option is to upgrade to a tankless water heater. Anode rods are exclusive to tank-style water heaters. By upgrading to a tankless water heater, you won’t have to worry about replacing the anode rod.

How to Set Your Thermostat When Going on a Summer Vacation

Do you have a summer vacation planned for the near future? There’s no better way to relax and unwind than by taking a vacation. Before hitting the road, however, you should set your thermostat. Making just a few minor adjustments to your thermostat can reduce your home’s energy usage and save you money – all while maintaining a comfortable climate inside your home.

Set the Fan to AUTO

Make sure the fan is set to AUTO. Most thermostats have an AUTO and an ON setting for the fan. The fan, of course, is the blower in your heating, ventilation and cooling (HVAC) system. When running, it will force air through the ductwork.

The ON setting means that the fan will run constantly, regardless of whether your air conditioning system is running. If your air conditioning system is running, the fan will force cool and conditioned air through the ductwork. If your air conditioning system isn’t running, the fan will force room-temperature air through the ductwork. The AUTO setting, on the other hand, means the fan will only run when your air conditioning system is running.

If you’re going on a summer vacation, you won’t need the fan to run indefinitely. Setting the fan to ON is a waste of energy and a waste of money. Instead, choose the AUTO setting until you return home.

Raise the Temperature 5 to 10 Degrees

You should raise the temperature on your thermostat by about 5 to 10 degrees. If you typically keep your home at 72 degrees, for instance, you should raise the temperature to 77 to 82 degrees.

Some homeowners may turn off their air conditioning system completely while away on vacation, believing there’s no point in cooling their home if it’s unoccupied. If your air conditioning system never turns on, though, your home will inevitably get hot and humid.

Running your air conditioning system while you are away on vacation will keep your home’s temperature and humidity level in check. Your home won’t become blistering hot, nor will it become excessively humid.

Raising the temperature to 5 to 10 degrees higher than what you typically prefer is a good balance. With a higher temperature, your air conditioning system will run less frequently while you are on vacation. As the temperature in your home creeps up, though, your air conditioning system will turn so that it doesn’t get too hot or humid.

What Is a Filter Drier and Why Do AC Systems Need Them?

When most homeowners think of filters in AC systems, they envision air filters. All central AC systems have an air filter. Typically constructed of pleated paper, it’s designed to remove contaminants from the air. Your AC system, however, probably has another type of filter: a filter drier.

What Is a Filter Drier?

A filter drier is an AC system component that’s designed to remove contaminants from the refrigerant. It’s typically found in the liquid line. The liquid line is an uninsulated copper pope that carries refrigerant in the form of a warm liquid. As the warm refrigerant travels through the liquid line, it will pass through the filter drier.

How Filter Driers Work

Filter driers work by cleaning the refrigerant in AC systems. They are known as “filter driers” because they dry the refrigerant by removing moisture.

Only refrigerant should flow through your AC system. If moisture enters your AC system, it will introduce contaminants. Moisture can even have a chemical reaction with refrigerant that results in the creation of hydrofluoric acid. Over time, hydrofluoric acid can eat away at your AC system from the inside out.

A filter drier will keep your AC system dry by removing moisture from it. Refrigerant must travel through the filter drier. If there’s any moisture in the refrigerant, the filter drier will remove it. Most filter driers feature granules that will absorb moisture and trap debris – all while allowing refrigerant to pass through them.

The Your AC System Needs a Filter Drier

Your AC system needs a filter drier to protect against refrigerant leaks. Under normal circumstances, refrigerant shouldn’t leak out of your AC system. But corrosion can eat through pipes and other parts while subsequently allowing refrigerant to escape. A filter drier will protect your AC system from leaks such as this by removing moisture.

A filter drier will improve the performance of your AC system. Your AC system may struggle to cool your home if there’s an excessive amount of moisture in it. Moisture will inhibit the refrigerant from absorbing heat. The moist refrigerant may still absorb some heat from your home’s interior, but it may fail to absorb a sufficient amount of heat. The end result is less cooling power.

With a filter drier, the refrigerant will absorb more heat. It will pull more heat out of your home, resulting in cooler air.

HVAC Troubleshooting: Common Causes of Poor Airflow

coming out of the supply vents, your HVAC system may struggle to cool your home during the summer. Your HVAC system will remove less heat from your home, and it will release conditioned air. To troubleshoot this common HVAC problem, you must find out what’s causing poor airflow in your HVAC system.

Ductwork Leakage

If your ductwork is leaking, you may experience poor airflow when running your HVAC system. Research shows that 20% to 30% of the average home’s conditioned air is lost due to ductwork leakage.

 A hole or tear in your HVAC system’s ductwork will allow the conditioned air to escape. Most of the conditioned air may still reach the supply vents, but some of it will inevitably leak out of the hole or tear, resulting in poor airflow

Ductwork Obstruction

In addition to leakage, ductwork obstruction can cause poor airflow in HVAC systems. Ensuring that your HVAC system’s ductwork is sealed and not leaking air isn’t always enough. An obstruction within the ductwork will block the conditioned air so that it’s not able to reach the supply vents.

Dust can build up inside of ductwork. Alternatively, pests can create nests inside of ductwork. Regardless, obstructions such as these will have a negative impact on your HVAC system’s airflow. They’ll restrict or even block air from traveling through the ductwork and into your home’s living spaces.

Blower Failure

If your HVAC system’s blower fails, you can expect poor airflow. The blower is responsible for blowing air into the ductwork.

Blowers are motorized fans. And like other motorized equipment, they are exposed to mechanical stress during use. Your HVAC system’s blower must power up so that the motor can spin the fan. All of this mechanical stress can take a toll on it. If the blower fails, you can expect poor airflow or even no airflow at all.

Dirty Air Filter

A dirty air filter can cause poor airflow in HVAC systems. The air filter, of course, helps to clean the air in your home. You can find it around the blower and evaporator coil. Air must pass through the filter before entering the ductwork and, thus, reaching the supply vents.

As dirt builds up on it, the filter may no longer allow air to easily flow through it. A dirty air flow will restrict the flow of air. As a result, less air will enter the ductwork.

Short to Ground: A Common Cause of Compressor Failure

The compressor is one of the most important parts of a central air conditioning system. Not to be confused with the condenser, the compressor is designed to pressurize refrigerant. The temperature of the refrigerant will increase in response to its pressure. By pressurizing the refrigerant, the compressor will make it hotter. The super-hot gaseous refrigerant will then release more heat at the condenser coil, resulting in greater cooling performance.

Compressors can fail, however. Most compressors have an average lifespan of about 10 to 15 years. If they fail, they may experience a shorter lifespan. Short to ground, for instance, is a common cause of compressor failure. Many homeowners have been forced to replace their compressors prematurely due to short to ground.

What Is Short to Ground?

Short to ground is an electrical phenomenon in which the electricity in a circuit is being redirected to the ground. A short is any unintentional connection between two electrical nodes in a circuit. Short to ground means the electricity is being redirected to the ground.

Compressor Short to Ground Explained

What does it mean when a compressor suffers from short to ground exactly? Compressors feature coppers wires known as windings. When running your air conditioning system, electricity will flow through these windings.

The windings are part of the compressor’s circuit. If they are damaged, the compressor may experience a short to ground. Rather than being contained within the compressor, electricity will be redirected to the ground.

Common Causes of Short-to-Ground Compressor

Excessive vibrations can cause compressors to experience a short to ground. If your air conditioning system’s compressor vibrates aggressively, the windings may gradually degrade to the point where it causes a short to ground. Some vibrations are normal when running the compressor. Excessive vibrations, though, are problematic because they increase wear and tear on the compressor and its windings.

Insufficient oil can cause a short to ground. Most compressors come with oil in them. The oil is designed to lubricate the compressor’s inner parts while reducing friction and heat in the process. If your air conditioning system’s compressor has an oil leak, it may experience a short to ground.

Even lightning strikes can cause a short to ground. The power surge from a lightning strike may damage the compressor, resulting in a short to ground. If you believe your air conditioning system’s compressor is experiencing a short to ground, you should get it inspected as soon as possible to prevent further damage.

AC Systems vs Evaporative Coolers: What’s the Difference?

When researching cooling systems, you may come across evaporative coolers. They are commonly used in dry climates. Both evaporative coolers and air conditioning systems can create cool air, and their respective cooling measure is typically measured in British Thermal Units (BTUs). With that said, AC systems and evaporative coolers are two completely different cooling systems.

What Is an AC System?

An air conditioning system is an indoor cooling system that uses refrigerant to create cool air. It features coils, a condenser, refrigerant and other parts. Air conditioning systems will absorb heat from an indoor space, which they’ll transfer outdoors, thus creating cool air.

Refrigerant will run through a pair of coils in an air conditioning system. There’s an indoor coil known as the evaporator coil, and there’s an outdoor coil known as the condenser coil.  Air conditioning systems blow indoor air over the former coil. As a result, refrigerant within the evaporator coil will absorb heat. Another fan will blow air over the condenser coil to cool off the refrigerant and release its heat.

What Is an Evaporative Cooler?

Also known as a swamp cooler, an evaporative cooler is a type of cooling system that uses water to create cool air. They feature a water-soaked medium, such as pads, and one or more large fans. When running an evaporative cooler, the fan will blow air over the water-soaked medium. This will lower the temperature of the air so that it can cool the space in which the evaporative cooler is used.

Evaporative coolers pull in warm outdoor air, which they pass over a water-soaked medium. They are simpler cooling systems that contain fewer parts.

Differences Between AC Systems and Evaporative Coolers

Air conditioning systems and evaporative coolers aren’t the same. Air conditioning systems leverage refrigerant – as well as coils and other parts – to create cool air. Evaporative coolers, on the other hand, simply blow air over a water-soaked medium.

Air conditioning systems are more powerful than evaporative coolers. With the right-sized air conditioning system, you can quickly cool your home. Evaporative coolers can still create cool air, but they lack the cooling power of air conditioning systems.

Only an air conditioning system will dehumidify your home. An evaporative cooler will actually have the opposite effect by making your home more humid. This is why most homes have an air conditioning system. You can find evaporative coolers in warehouses, factories and other open spaces. For residential cooling, though, there’s no substitution for an air conditioning system. Air conditioning systems can quickly cool and dehumidify homes.

Wi-Fi Thermostats: How They Work and the Benefits They Offer

Thermostats have evolved over the years. Heating, ventilation and cooling (HVAC) systems are no longer limited to mechanical, manually operated thermostats. There are now digital thermostats available for HVAC systems, including Wi-Fi thermostats.

What Is a Wi-Fi Thermostat?

A Wi-Fi thermostat is exactly what it sounds like: a thermostat that’s able to connect to a nearby wireless network. Statistics show that the average home now has over 10 Wi-Fi devices. In addition to smartphones, computers and TVs, there are thermostats that can connect to wireless networks. Known as Wi-Fi thermostats, they offer several benefits beyond that of traditional thermostats.

Benefits of Using a Wi-Fi Thermostat

With a Wi-Fi thermostat, you can control your HVAC system on the go. Wi-Fi thermostats can be controlled remotely over the internet – typically with a mobile companion app. You can download the mobile companion app to your smartphone. And if you want to raise or lower the temperature of your home while on the go, you can use the mobile companion app.

You don’t have to worry about installing software updates with a Wi-Fi thermostat. While they typically require software, most of them will install the updates automatically. As long as the Wi-Fi thermostat is connected to the internet, it will install software updates automatically.

Wi-Fi Thermostats vs Smart Thermostats

While the terms “Wi-Fi thermostats” and “smart thermostats” are used interchangeably, they aren’t necessarily the same. Wi-Fi thermostats include any thermostat that’s able to connect to a wireless network.

Smart thermostats, on the other hand, are thermostats that can adjust their temperature automatically. They can raise or lower their temperature automatically on your behalf. Many smart thermostats have Wi-Fi capabilities. There are plenty of Wi-Fi thermostats, though, that aren’t classified as smart thermostats.

Tips on Using a Wi-Fi Thermostat

If you’re going to use a Wi-Fi thermostat, you should try to install it near your home’s router. Installing the Wi-Fi thermostat on the opposite end of your home may result in connectivity issues. The Wi-Fi thermostat may respond slowly to your commands, or it may disconnect from the Wi-Fi. You can avoid connectivity issues such as these by installing it near your home’s router.

You may want to adjust the Wi-Fi thermostat before commuting home. It may take your HVAC system 10 to 15 minutes, for instance, to achieve your specified temperature. With a Wi-Fi thermostat, you can set the temperature remotely by using a mobile companion app. As a result, when you walk into your home, the temperature will be perfect.

The Homeowner's Guide to Variable Speed

Heating, ventilation and cooling (HVAC) system blowers are often classified according to their motor. The blower, of course, is responsible for circulating air through the ductwork. It pulls air into the return vents, and it pushes conditioned air out the supply vents. While some blowers have a single-speed motor, though, others have a variable-speed motor.

What Is a Variable-Speed Blower?

A variable-speed blower is a type of HVAC blower that can operate at different speeds. It’s characterized by the use of an electronically commuted motor (ECM). ECMs are highly efficient motors that feature an inverter and a permanent magnet. This design allows them to run at different speeds.

Most blowers are powered by either an ECM or a permanent split capacitor (PSC) motor. ECMs can run at different speeds, whereas PSCs can only run at a single speed. As a result, blowers with an ECM are known as variable-speed blowers. Blowers with a PSC, on the other hand, are known as single-speed blowers.

Air Conditioning and Heating

Some homeowners assume that blowers are only used in air conditioning systems. When running your air conditioning system, the blower will circulate air through the ductwork. It will also circulate air through the ductwork, however, when running your furnace.

Blowers are typically installed in the furnace or an air handling unit (AHU). Whether powered by an ECM or PSC motor, the blower will circulate air through the ductwork. It will turn on automatically whenever you run your air conditioning system or your furnace. Alternatively, you can force the blower to turn on by setting your thermostat’s fan to the “ON” position.

Variable-Speed Blower Benefits

If you’re looking to upgrade your HVAC system with a new blower, you may want to choose a variable-speed blower. Variable-speed blowers are more efficient than single-speed blowers. They don’t run at full capacity all the time. Instead, variable-speed blowers will gradually increase or decrease their operational speed to maintain your desired comfort level. The end result is greater energy efficiency.

You can save money by switching to a variable-speed blower. Because they are more energy efficient than single-speed blowers, they cost less to run. So, while upgrading to a variable-speed blower requires an investment, it can pay off in the long run.

You may discover that variable-speed blowers are quieter than their single-speed counterparts. When a single-speed blower initially turns on, it will run at full speed. You can typically hear it turning on and running. Variable-speed blowers are quieter.