Why AC Systems Use a Hermetic Compressor

There’s a reason why the compressor is known as the “heart” of a typical air conditioning system. It’s responsible for pumping refrigerant through the coils of an air conditioning system so that it can remove heat from indoor spaces. While compressors are found in other appliances, air conditioning systems almost always use a hermetic compressor. What is a hermetic compressor exactly, and why do air conditioning systems use them?

What Is a Hermetic Compressor?

A hermetic compressor is a type of refrigerant-pressurizing device that’s characterized by a closed design. Hermetic compressors and their corresponding motors are packaged together in a sealed – typically welded – unit. All compressors work by pressurizing refrigerant. As the refrigerant becomes more pressurized, it will convert to a hot gas, which allows it to release more heat.

Compressors can be classified according to their design. There are hermetic, semi-hermetic and open compressors. Hermetic compressors have an open design. Semi-hermetic compressors have a semi-open design that leverages removable bolts or fasteners. Open compressors, on the other hand, are completely open. Open compressors are installed separately from their corresponding motors.

Protection From Environmental Contaminants

Both residential and commercial air conditioning systems almost always use a hermetic compressor. One of the main benefits of hermetic compressors is protection from environmental contaminants.

Compressors are installed outdoors. In residential air conditioning systems, the compressor is typically installed near the side of the home. In commercial air conditioning systems, it may be installed near the side of the building or the roof. Regardless, compressors are installed outdoors where they are exposed to dirt, dust, pollen, insects, moisture and other forms of environmental contaminants.

Hermetic compressors feature a closed, sealed design. Therefore, they are protected from environmental contaminants. Contaminants from outside your home won’t enter your air conditioning system’s compressor if it’s a hermetic compressor.

Protection From Leaks

Hermetic compressors are better protected from leaks than other types of compressors. Like all compressors, hermetic compressors contain refrigerant. Refrigerant must flow through a compressor in order for the compressor to pressurize it.

If refrigerant leaks out of a compressor, it will leak out of the entire air conditioning system. And as the air conditioning system’s refrigerant levels drop, it will no longer be able to remove heat from indoor spaces. Fortunately, leaks are less likely to occur with hermetic compressors. Hermetic compressors have an air-tight housing that allows refrigerant to move through them without leaking out of any seals or crevices.

Do Evaporator and Condenser Coils Need to Match?

Many homeowners assume that evaporator and condenser coils don’t need to match. Air conditioning systems, of course, require both of these coils to transfer heat. The evaporator coil is found inside of your home, whereas the condenser coil is found outside of your home. When running your air conditioning system, the evaporator coil will pull heat from the indoor air so that it can be released at the condenser coil.

Whether you’re buying a new air conditioning system or upgrading your existing air conditioning system, though, you’ll need to ensure that both coils are the same size. Using mismatched coils may sound harmless, but it can lead to several problems.

Lower Efficiency

Your air conditioning system may continue to run, but mismatched coils will make it less efficient. Mismatched coils means that the evaporator coil and condenser coils are different sizes. One of the coils is larger than the other coil.

The larger coil will transfer more heat than the smaller heat. But the smaller coil won’t be able to meet the demand of the larger coil. Rather, it will lag behind the larger coil while promoting a less-efficient air conditioning system.

Increased Wear and Tear

Using mismatched coils will lead to increased wear and tear. Your air conditioning system will have to work harder with mismatched coils.

As your air conditioning system is exposed to increased wear and tear, it may require more frequent maintenance. Neglecting to get your air conditioning system maintained could result in failure of the coils or other parts. You can protect your air conditioning system from unnecessary wear and tear by choosing matching coils of the same size.

Warranty Voided

Another problem associated with mismatched coils is a voided warranty. Many manufacturers require the use of matching coils. They acknowledge the fact that mismatched coils can increase wear and tear, so they require owners to use the same size for both coils.

If the coils in your air conditioning system don’t match, it could void your warranty. You won’t be able to file a claim for damage or defects with a voided warranty.

If you believe your air conditioning system has mismatched coils, contact a professional heating, ventilation and cooling (HVAC) technician today. A simple inspection can reveal whether the coils are the same size. If one of the coils is bigger than the other, the HVAC technician can replace it.

Are Air-Sourced Heat Pumps the Same as Central AC Systems?

You can use either a heat pump or a central air conditioning system to cool your home. In the past, most homes were equipped with a central air conditioning system, but heat pumps have become increasingly popular in recent years. Heat pumps aren’t the same as central air conditioning systems, however. They are two different types of heating, ventilation and cooling (HVAC) systems.

The Parts

Central air conditioning systems and heat pumps have many of the same parts. They both have a pair of coils, a condenser and a blower. Heat pumps, however, have another part that’s not found in central air conditioning systems: a reversing valve.

The reversing valve is designed to change the direction in which refrigerant travels. Refrigerant moves between the two coils. In central air conditioning systems, refrigerant will always move in the same direction. In heat pumps, the reversing valve can change the direction of the refrigerant.

Cooling and Heating

Central air conditioning systems are designed exclusively to cool indoor spaces. Heat pumps, on the other hand, can cool or warm indoor spaces.

Heat pumps can cool indoor spaces by mimicking the mechanics of a central air conditioning system. They will absorb indoor heat using refrigerant, which they’ll transfer outdoors. Heat pumps can warm indoor spaces with the help of the reversing valve. As previously mentioned, the reversing valve will change the direction of the refrigerant. It allows heat pumps to absorb outdoor heat, which they’ll transfer indoors.

Maintenance

Because they can cool and warm indoor spaces, heat pumps require more maintenance than central air conditioning systems. Most HVAC technicians recommend an annual inspection for central air conditioning systems. If you have a heat pump, though, you may want to get it professionally inspected twice a year.

Heat pumps require more maintenance because they work year-round. You’ll probably use your heat pump during the spring and summer to cool your home, and you’ll use it during the fall and winter to warm your home.

Cost

You can expect to pay more for a heat pump than a central air conditioning system. Prices vary depending on the size, features and brand. But heat pumps usually cost more than central air conditioning systems.

Heat pumps may cost more, but they eliminate the need for a furnace. You won’t need a furnace if your home is equipped with a heat pump. You can use the heat pump to both cool and warm your home.

Installing Window AC Units: What You Should Know

Window air conditioning units can provide supplementary cooling during the hot Georgia summers. They aren’t a substitution for a central air conditioning system. If a particular room is noticeably warmer than the rest of your home, though, you can use a window air conditioning unit to cool it. Window air conditioning units, of course, require installation.

Choose the Right Window

As their name suggests, window air conditioning units are designed for use in windows. You can install them in most standard-size residential windows. With that said, some windows may prove more effective than others.

A window in the center of a wall, for instance, may provide greater circulation than that of a side window. And if you’re installing a window air conditioning unit in your bedroom, you may want to choose a window that’s not pointed directly at your bed.

Position Under the Sash

After opening the window, position the window air conditioning unit under the sash. Window air conditioning units typically have a lip on top. You’ll need to position the window air conditioning unit under the sash so that the lip is pressed against the side of it.

The lip should press against the bottom side of the window’s sash. If it’s under the sash, you’ll need to reposition the unit.

Tilt Backward

Most window air conditioning units should be installed with a slight tilt. You should refer to the instruction manual when installing a window air conditioning unit. Nonetheless, it may recommend tilting the unit backward at a slight angle.

Tilting window air conditioning units backward at a slight angle is designed to prevent them from draining indoors. Like central air conditioning units, window units produce condensation. Moisture will condenser on a window unit’s coil. Most window units have an open port in the back so that condensation can drain out of them. Tilting them backward helps to direct the condensation to this port.

Secure With Hardware

Window air conditioning units come with installation hardware. Most of them are packaged with a pair of brackets and a set of screws. You can use this hardware to secure the window air conditioning unit in place.

Always refer to the instruction manual when installing a window air conditioning unit. Most window units, however, require a bracket on the right and left sides of the frame. You can install the brackets with the included screws. The brackets will essentially hold the window in place. You won’t be able to pull up the window after installing the brackets, meaning the window air conditioning unit will be secure.

Troubleshooting an Outdoor AC Fan That’s No Longer Spinning

If your air conditioning system’s outdoor fan has stopped spinning, you’ll need to investigate it. All central air conditioning systems have an outdoor fan. Also known as the condenser fan, it blows air over the condenser coil to release heat. When it stops spinning, heat may build up inside of the condenser coil while subsequently lowering your air conditioning system’s cooling power.

Slipped Motor Belt

A slipped motor belt may prevent the condenser fan from spinning. Most condenser fans are powered by either a direct-drive motor or a belt-drive motor. Belt-drive motors use a serpentine belt to spin the condenser fan. Belts, of course, can slip out of place. If the belt slips, your condenser fan will no longer be connected to the motor, so it won’t be able to spin.

Corrosion Around Electrical Contacts

Corrosion may prevent the condenser fan from spinning as well. Unlike blowers, condenser fans are installed outdoors. They are packaged inside of the condenser unit, which is installed outdoors. And because condenser fans are installed outdoors, they are regularly exposed to moisture.

As moisture accumulates around the electrical contacts, the condenser fan may stop spinning. Condenser fans require electricity. If corrosion forms around the condenser fan’s electrical contacts, it may not receive a sufficient amount of electricity. Corrosion will interrupt the flow of electricity so that the condenser fan is no longer able to spin.

Blown Capacitor

Your AC system has capacitors. Capacitors are energy-storage devices that help the equipment turn on and run. Condenser fans, for instance, typically use a capacitor for startup operations. With a blown capacitor, the condenser fan may not turn on, nor will it spin.

Stuck Bearings

Another reason condenser fans stop spinning is stuck bearings. Most condenser fans have bearings to reduce friction and, thus, allow the blades to move more freely. Bearings can get stuck, however. With stuck bearings, the condenser fan may spin more slowly, or may not spin at all.

Debris can make its way into the condenser fan. As previously mentioned, the condenser fan is located outdoors. There’s a lot of debris, of course, outdoors. Dirt, grass, leaves and other debris can get stuck inside of the condenser fan where it causes the bearings to seize up.

Troubleshooting a condenser fan that’s no longer spinning isn’t always easy. It can have many different causes, including a slipped motor belt, corrosion around electrical contacts, a blown capacitor and stuck bearings. If your air conditioning system’s condenser fan has stopped spinning, you should contact a professional technician for a proper diagnosis.

5 Fireplace Maintenance Tips for the Summer

As the weather begins to warm, you’ll probably stop using your fireplace. Whether you have a wood-burning or gas fireplace, the Georgia summers are simply too hot for it. You can still maintain your fireplace during this time of year, however. By following these five simple maintenance tips, you can rest assured knowing that your fireplace will be ready for the cool weather.

#1) Clean Out the Firebox

There’s no better time than the beginning of summer to clean out the firebox. The firebox is the inner box of your fireplace. It’s the main compartment in which you build fires. With a wood-burning fireplace, ashes will accumulate inside of the firebox. Failure to clean them out may result in carpet stains, or if the ashes accumulate moisture, it may rust and corrosion inside of the firebox.

#2) Get Gas Logs Serviced

If you have a gas fireplace, you should consider getting the logs professionally serviced. Gas fireplaces don’t produce ash like wood-burning fireplaces. They typically feature a set of ceramic gas logs over a burner assembly. Dust and dirt may accumulate on the gas logs, especially during the summer. Servicing involves cleaning and arranging gas logs.

#3) Double-Check the Damper

You should double-check the damper to ensure that it’s closed. The damper is a valve that’s designed to control airflow into and out of the chimney. When using your fireplace, you should keep the damper completely open. Otherwise, smoke will build up inside of your home. During the summer – or other times when you aren’t using your fireplace – you should keep the damper completely closed.

#4) Move Unused Firewood Outdoors

If you have any unused firewood sitting in front of your fireplace, you may want to transport it outdoors. Firewood can attract pests. Termites, beetles and other pests are attracted to the cellulose within firewood. By moving unused firewood outdoors, you can keep these pests out of your home. Just remember to store your unused firewood off the ground.

#5) Consider a Chimney Cleaning Service

You may want to get your chimney cleaned during the summer as well. Chimneys will inevitably get dirty. The more you use your fireplace, the more soot and debris will accumulate inside of your chimney. Some of this soot can be flammable. As a result, the National Fire Protection Association (NFPA) recommends that homeowners can get their chimney inspected, and cleaned if necessary, at least once a year.

N-Coil vs A-Coil Evaporator Coils: What’s the Difference?

Evaporator coils can be categorized according to their shape. In a central AC system, the evaporator coil acts as a heat exchanger by absorbing heat from the indoor air so that it can be transported and released outside. It features a series of metal tubes and fins. Refrigerant will flow through the tubes, and air will pass over the fins.

While all evaporator coils have the same purpose, they are available in different shapes. There are N-coils and A-coils. The former is shaped like the letter N, whereas the latter is shaped like the letter A. What’s the difference between N-coils and A-coils exactly?

What Is an N-Coil?

An N-coil is a type of evaporator coil that’s shaped like the letter N. it features three separate panels that are joined together in a zig-zag-like formation.

N-coils are also referred to as Z-coils. Depending on how they are installed, they may resemble the letter Z. Regardless, N-coils and Z-coils feature three separate panels. Each panel contains refrigerant passages and fins.

What Is an A-Coil?

An A-coil is a type of evaporator coil that’s shaped like the letter A. It features two separate panels that tilt towards each other at the top. In other words, they look like the roof of a typical house.

Like N-coils, A-coils consist of refrigerant passages and fins. The refrigerant passages are typically copper, whereas the fins are usually made of aluminum. A-coils simply feature an A-shaped design.

Differences Between N-Coils and A-Coils

Most evaporator coils consist of either an N- or A-shaped design. A-coils are more common than N-coils. They are used in more heating, ventilation and cooling (HVAC) systems than N-coils.

One of the main advantages of choosing an A-coil is drainage. Condensation will drain more easily from an A-coil because of its sloped design.

All evaporator coils produce condensation. It’s a byproduct from their operations. Moisture vapor in the air will condense on the copper passages of an evaporator coil. A-coils have a sloped design that allows condensation to drain naturally. As it builds up, condensation will eventually drip down the sides of the A-coil before landing in a pan. Known as a condensate pan, it’s designed to catch condensation. The condensate pan will run to your home’s exterior to prevent it from overflowing.

N-coils are typically equipped with a condensate pan as well. A-coils, however, offer easier drainage because of their sloped design.

What to Do If Your Evaporator Coil Is Frozen

Have you discovered ice on your air conditioning system’s evaporator coil? A frozen evaporator coil can be perplexing. During the hot Georgia summers, you probably don’t expect ice to form over your air conditioning equipment. Evaporator coils, however, can freeze even when it’s hot outside. And with a frozen evaporator coil, your air conditioning system will struggle to cool your home.

Turn Off the AC

Upon discovering ice on the evaporator coil, you should immediately turn off your air conditioning system. There’s no point in running your air conditioning system if the evaporator coil is frozen. It may turn on, but it will probably offer little or no cooling power.

The evaporator coil is a heat exchanger. Air conditioning systems use it to pull heat from the indoor air. A frozen evaporator coil means your air conditioning system won’t be able to extract heat from your home’s indoor air, so it will likely fail to cool your home.

Check the Air Filter

You should check the air filter. If the air filter is exceptionally dirty or clogged, it may cause the evaporator coil to freeze.

A dirty or clogged air filter will essentially restrict airflow. As it circulates, air must pass through the filter before going over the evaporator coil. A dirty or clogged air filter will prevent air from passing through it. Therefore, little or no warm air will reach the evaporator coil, which may cause the temperature of the refrigerant inside of it to drop.

Let the Fan Run

While you should turn off your air conditioning system, you may want to let the fan run. Assuming there are no obstructions – a dirty air filter, blocked ductwork, etc. – the fan will force warm air over the evaporator coil.

You can control the fan at the thermostat. Most thermostats have two settings for the fan: ON and AUTO. When set to the former setting, the fan will run continuously.

Seek Professional Assistance

Don’t hesitate to seek professional assistance for a frozen evaporator coil. Evaporator coils shouldn’t freeze. Even if there’s only a small layer of ice over it, this typically indicates a serious problem that needs to be addressed.

Restricted airflow can cause evaporator coils to freeze. A refrigerant leak can also cause evaporator coils to leak. By contacting a professional air conditioning technician, you can get the problem diagnosed and fixed so that it doesn’t lead to an uncomfortably hot summer.

The Rise of HVAC Leasing and Why It’s Not Always a Good Idea

Leasing is no longer limited to automobiles. You can now lease other products, including heating, ventilation and cooling (HVAC) equipment. Many HVAC companies, for instance, offer lease plans for furnaces and AC systems. Rather than buying a new furnace or AC system for your home, you can lease it.

What Is HVAC Leasing?

HVAC leasing is the equivalent of renting HVAC equipment. You’ll have to sign a contract agreeing to pay a specific amount – typically each month – to use the HVAC equipment. The lessor will then loan you the HVAC equipment. As long you make the necessary payments, you can continue to use the HVAC equipment in your home.

When compared to buying HVAC equipment, leasing it may sound like an attractive alternative. You won’t have to purchase the HVAC equipment up front.  Some HVAC companies, in fact, may offer deferred payments, meaning you won’t have to make payments until after the HVAC equipment has been installed.

Most leases also cover the cost of repairs and maintenance. If the HVAC equipment stops working, or if it requires maintenance, the lessor will cover the cost of it. While leasing HVAC equipment may sound beneficial, though, you should think twice before signing a lease.

Higher Cost Over Time

While you may initially save money by leasing HVAC equipment, you’ll almost certainly pay more over time. HVAC leases are long-term contracts. You’ll have to make monthly payments for several years. And at the end of the contract, you’ll typically have to pay to purchase the HVAC equipment or renew the lease.

Lack of Ownership

You’ll never actually own your HVAC equipment if you lease it. Leasing is a rental agreement between a lessor and lessee. Without ownership, leasing your HVAC equipment can cause a headache if you try to sell your home. You can avoid this issue by purchasing your HVAC equipment. After purchasing a new furnace or AC system, you’ll own it.

HVAC Equipment Already Comes With a Warranty

It’s also worth mentioning that new HVAC equipment already comes with a warranty. Leasing, of course, means you won’t be responsible for paying for repairs. But most new furnaces and AC systems are already covered by a manufacturer’s warranty. You can buy new HVAC equipment without fear of having to pay for repairs. If failure occurs during the warranty period, the manufacturer will pay to repair it.

How to Keep Your Garage Cool During the Summer

Garages in the Southeast can get pretty hot during the summer. Most of them don’t have central air conditioning, and many garages lack ventilation as well. Fortunately, there are ways to keep your garage cool during the summer. If you regularly work in your garage, you may want to consider the following solutions to create a more comfortable space.

Fan

To combat hot temperatures during the summer, you can install a fan in your garage. Whether it’s a ceiling fan or freestanding fan, it will circulate air throughout your garage so that it feels cooler. A fan won’t necessarily lower the air temperature. Nonetheless, it will make your garage more comfortable by circulating the otherwise stagnant air.

Window AC

You can keep your garage cool during the summer by installing a window air conditioning unit. Window air conditioning systems are essentially small, window-installed central air conditioning systems. They typically range from 5,000 to 1,500 British Thermal Units (BTUs). For a small garage, a 5,000-BTU model may suffice. If you have a larger and more spacious garage, you may want to choose a window air conditioning system with a higher cooling capacity.

The downside to using a window air conditioning system is that it requires a window Not all garages have windows. Many garages only have glass panels for the garage door. You can’t install a window air conditioning system in these glass panels because there’s no frame to support it.

Ductless AC

Rather than a window air conditioning unit, you may want to install a ductless air conditioning system in your garage. Also known as mini-split air conditioning systems, ductless air conditioning systems are able to cool interior spaces without relying on ductwork. They consist of all the necessary cooling equipment in two separate units.

Most ductless air conditioning systems consist of a wall-mounted indoor unit and an outdoor unit. The indoor unit contains the evaporator coil, whereas the outdoor unit contains the condenser coil and compressor. The evaporator coil will absorb heat from your garage, and the condenser coil will release it outside.

Ductless air conditioning systems don’t require a window. You can install them directly in a wall. Many people also prefer the appearance of ductless air conditioning systems over window units. Ductless air conditioning systems are typically smaller and sleeker than their window counterparts. Regardless, you can use a fan, window air conditioning system or a ductless air conditioning system to cool down your garage during the summer.

Why Your HVAC System’s Thermostat Keeps Blinking

Blinking is a universal warning signal for electronic devices. If an electronic device in your home suddenly begins to blink, you may want to investigate it. This rings true for thermostats as well. Your heating, ventilation and cooling (HVAC) system’s thermostat may begin to blink. By understanding why it’s blinking, you can take the necessary action to fix it.

Low Battery Power

When was the last time you changed the batteries? Low battery power can cause thermostats to blink. There are dozens of different types of thermostats. Most of them, however, contain batteries. Your HVAC system’s thermostat may draw most of its power from your home, but it will probably feature batteries as well.

Batteries allow thermostats to save programming information during outages. If your home’s power goes out, the thermostat will draw power from the batteries to save the programming information. Dead or dying batteries may result in a blinking light, indicating that you need to change them.

Short Cycling

Short cycling can also cause thermostats to blink. Short cycling is characterized by rapid cooling, resulting in short and frequent cooling cycles. If your air conditioning system is too big, for instance, it may short cycle.

Some air conditioning systems are designed to turn off automatically in the event of short cycling to protect against damage. When this occurs, the thermostat may blink to notify you that it’s entering delay mode. If your air condition system is short cycling, don’t hesitate to get it fixed. Short cycling over a prolonged period can cause serious damage.

Compressor Failure

Another problem that can cause thermostats to blink is compressor failure. The compressor is a piece of cooling equipment. It’s found outdoors inside of the condenser unit. The job of the compressor is to pump, as well as pressurize, refrigerant through your air conditioning system.

If your air conditioning system’s compressor has failed, the thermostat may begin to blink. The thermostat must be able to “read” the compressor. When the compressor fails, the thermostat won’t get a response for it. Many thermostats will then blink as a warning.

Electrical Problems

An electrical problem with your air conditioning system may cause the thermostat to blink. Corroded or loose wiring, for instance, may trigger blinking. Air conditioning systems contain a variety of electrical components, including wires. If there’s an electrical problem with your air conditioning system, you may notice the thermostat blinking.

What Is Compressor Oil and Why Is It Important?

Is your air conditioning system low on compressor oil? Even if you’ve never seen it, your air conditioning system probably has compressor oil. It’s found inside of the compressor. Manufacturers may add compressor oil when producing compressors, or a technician may add it when installing compressors. Over time, however, your air conditioning system may lose some of its compressor oil, which can lead to cooling problems.  

The Basics of Compressor Oil

Compressor oil is a lubricating oil that’s designed for use in the compressor of an air conditioning system. It’s available in two types of formulas: mineral and synthetic. In the past, mineral was the most common type of compressor oil, but it has since been replaced with synthetic compressor oil.

Mineral compressor oil is typically used in air conditioning systems that run R22 refrigerant, whereas synthetic compressor oil is used in newer air conditioning systems that run non-R22 refrigerant. They aren’t interchangeable. If your air conditioning system is low on compressor oil, you’ll need to refill it with the type that it currently uses.

The Importance of Compressor Oil

You might be wondering why your air conditioning system needs compressor oil. Compressor oil serves several purposes, one of which is to reduce friction. It’s added to the compressor. The compressor, of course, features a large fan with spinning blades. The compressor fan will run automatically when your air conditioning system is running.

Over time, friction can wear down the compressor fan. Compressor oil works to protect the compressor fan, as well as other parts, from friction-related damage. It will lubricate the compressor’s parts so that they can move more easily while generating less friction.

Another reason air conditioning systems have compressor oil is to minimize heat.  Compressors will generate heat. After all, hot refrigerant must flow through them. And during this process, some of the compressor’s parts will move. Compressor oil will both lubricate the compressor’s part and remove heat.

Signs of Low Compressor Oil

Unusual noises may indicate low compressor oil. If you hear grinding, squealing or humming noises coming from your air conditioning system’s compressor, it may need more compressor oil.

You may notice a visible leak if your air conditioning system is low on compressor oil. Compressor oil is designed to operate in a closed system. In other words, it should only be low if it leaks out of the compressor. You can look around your air conditioning system’s compressor to see if it’s leaking oil.

Does Your Water Heater Need a New Thermopile?

Gas water heaters consist of more than just a tank with a burner assembly; they contain a variety of other parts, including a thermopile.  The thermopile plays an important role in the function of most gas water heaters. Like most other parts, though, it can fail. If the thermopile in your gas water heater has failed, you’ll need to get it replaced.

Overview of Thermopiles

Not to be confused with a thermocouple, a thermopile is a device that converts thermal energy into electrical energy. They are commonly found in gas-powered appliances. Gas fireplaces, furnaces and, of course, water heaters may have a thermopile. The thermopile is responsible for converting thermal energy into electrical energy.

How Thermopiles Work

Thermopiles are designed to regulate the temperature of the gas waters with which they are used. When the pilot light turns on, the thermopile will be exposed to thermal energy. It will convert this thermal energy into electrical energy. The voltage output will then be used to regulate the temperature of the gas water heater.

Even if your water heater is powered by gas, it may use an electronic system to regulate its temperature. This electronic system works in conjunction with the thermopile. The thermopile will generate a voltage that powers your water heater’s electronic system. It will convert the thermal energy of the pilot light into electrical energy, which the thermopile will use to power your water heater’s electronic system.

Signs of a Bad Thermopile

If your gas water heater has a bad thermopile, it may fail to produce warm or hot water. Gas water heaters are often dependent on the thermopile to function properly. If the thermopile fails, so will the electronic system used to regulate their temperature

Some gas water heaters may display an error code or message if the thermopile fails. If you notice an error code or message, your gas water heater may have a bad thermopile.

You can also diagnose a bad thermopile by measuring the voltage output. Thermopiles are designed to produce a specific amount of electricity, such as 600 to 800 millivolts. When a thermopile fails, it will typically produce less electricity. Some thermopiles, in fact, may not produce any electricity when they fail.

In Conclusion

If you believe your gas water heater has a bad thermopile, schedule an appointment for a professional inspection. An inspection can reveal whether the thermopile is bad and what’s required to fix it.

A Homeowner’s Guide to HVAC Load Calculations

Load calculations are commonly performed for residential heating, ventilation and cooling (HVAC) systems. Whether you’re looking to improve your existing HVAC system or upgrade to a new HVAC system, you may want to get a load calculation. When performed by a licensed technician, a load calculation can reveal how many British Thermal Units (BTUs) your HVAC system needs to produce.

What Is an HVAC Load Calculation?

An HVAC load calculation is the process of calculating the ideal load capacity of HVAC equipment for a given home. HVAC equipment can consist of an air conditioning system, furnace, heat pump or any combination thereof. With an HVAC load calculation, you can determine the correct size for your home’s HVAC equipment.

The Formula for an HVAC Load Calculation

There’s no single formula for an HVAC load calculation. Rather, different HVAC companies use their own formulas. With that said, most HVAC load calculations involve several factors.

The size of your home’s indoor space will affect the ideal load capacity of its HVAC equipment. Bigger homes will inevitably require HVAC equipment with a higher load capacity. The load capacity of HVAC equipment, of course, is the heating or cooling output. It’s typically measured in BTUs. The more BTUs an air conditioning or furnace produces, the greater its cooling or heating power.

In addition to square footage of your home’s indoor space, other factors that may affect an HVAC load calculation include the following:

·         Insulation

·         Number of windows

·         Sun exposure

·         Ceiling height

·         Number of occupants

·         Air tightness

·         Region

Why You Should Get an HVAC Load Calculation

By getting an HVAC load calculation, you can choose HVAC equipment in the appropriate size for your home. You won’t have to randomly choose HVAC equipment while hoping it’s the right size. An HVAC load calculation will provide you with the correct size for your home.

An HVAC load calculation can extend the life of your home’s HVAC equipment. Oversized HVAC equipment may fail prematurely. If your air conditioning system or furnace is too big for your home, it may short cycle. Short cycling involves the equipment repeatedly turning on and off, which can lead to wear and tear. Fortunately, you can prevent short cycling by choosing HVAC equipment in the right size for your home.

By eliminating the issue of short cycling, an HVAC load calculation can make your home’s HVAC equipment more energy efficient. The equipment will operate more efficiently while saving you money on your home’s heating and cooling costs.

5 Things That Can Void Your AC System’s Warranty

If you’re planning to buy a new air conditioning system in the near future, you should use caution to ensure that you don’t accidentally void the warranty. New air conditioning systems typically come with a warranty. Some of them come with a five-year warranty, whereas other air conditioning systems come with a 10-year warranty. Certain things, however, can void the warranty so that you’re forced to pay out of pocket for repairs.

#1) Improper Installation

If your air conditioning system is installed improperly, it may void the warranty. Manufacturers will typically only provide warranty coverage for air conditioning systems that are installed properly and by a licensed heating, ventilation and cooling (HVAC) technician. Improper installation can void your air conditioning system’s warranty.

#2) Incompatible Parts

Using incompatible parts with your air conditioning system may void the warranty. If you need to replace a part, for instance, you’ll need to make sure the part is compatible with your air conditioning system. Even if an incompatible part “fits,” it may not be approved by your air conditioning system’s manufacturer. As a result, using it could void the warranty.

#3) DIY Servicing

While you can change the air filter, you should avoid do-it-yourself (DIY) servicing tasks with your air conditioning system. Opening up the coils or accessing any of your air conditioning system’s motors, for example, may void the warranty. Servicing tasks such as these require a licensed HVAC technician. Attempting to do them yourself will only increase the risk of a voided warranty.

#4) Not Documenting Maintenance

Some air conditioning systems require regular maintenance to retain the warranty. You may have to get a tune-up at least once a year. Keep in mind that you may need to document this maintenance as well. After buying a new air conditioning system, check to see whether it requires any maintenance to retain the warranty. You should then document this maintenance by saving the associated invoices.

#5) Not Registering

Depending on the brand, you may need to register your air conditioning system. Failure to register your air conditioning system won’t necessarily void the warranty. It may, however, shorten the duration of the warranty. Registering is a quick and easy process. You can typically do it either online or by mail. By registering your air conditioning system, you may extend the warranty so that you are financially covered for a longer length of time.

Are HVAC Air Filters Recyclable? Get the Facts

Air filters don’t last forever. Over time, the air filter in your heating, ventilation and cooling (HVAC) system will accumulate so much debris that it restricts airflow. Air will then struggle to blow through the ductwork and, thus, circulate throughout your home. When changing your HVAC system’s old air filter, though, you might be wondering whether they are recyclable.

Some Air Filters Are Made of a Recyclable Material

Depending on the type of air filter installed in your HVAC system, it may be made of a recyclable material. Air filters are available in a variety of materials, some of which are recyclable.

Fiberglass is commonly used to make air filters. Fiberglass air filters consist of pleated mesh-like pads that contain many small strands of glass. You can also find air filters made of polyester. Polyester air filters look like fiberglass filters. Rather than glass strands, however, polyester air filters contain polyester fibers.

Fiberglass is not classified as a recyclable material. The glass strands found in fiberglass will break during the recycling process. Polyester can’t be easily recycled, either. Polyester is a synthetic material that’s difficult to recycle. Only air filters made of a paper-based material can be recycled.

Why You Shouldn’t Try to Recycle Old Air Filters

You should typically dispose of old air filters rather than trying to recyclable them. Even if you have an air filter that’s made entirely of pleated paper or cardboard, it may not be recyclable.

Air filters will inevitably become dirty. After all, they are designed specifically to remove particulate matter from the air. Old air filters may have so much particular matter on them that they can no longer be recycled.

You can dispose of old air filters, of course, rather than trying to recycle them. After removing an old air filter from your furnace or Air Handling Unit (AHU), place it inside of a trash bag. Immediately placing the old air filter in a trash bag will prevent loose dust or debris from being released back into your home.

If you’re looking to reduce waste, you can choose a reusable air filter for your HVAC system. Reusable air filters are characterized by a washable construction. They are interchangeable with most traditional air filters. While traditional air filters are disposable, reusable air filters are not. You can wash them to remove the particulate matter, after which you can place them back inside of your furnace or AHU.

PSC vs ECM Blower: What’s the Difference?

Heating, ventilation and cooling (HVAC) systems require a blower. Whether you’re warming or cooling your home, the blower will move the conditioned air into your HVAC system’s ductwork. Blowers consist of a motor that’s attached to a fan. The motor will spin the fan’s blades while subsequently circulating air.

While they are all designed to move the conditioned air into the HVAC, there are different types of blowers. Most blowers can be classified as permanent split capacitor (PSC) or electronically communicated motor (ECM). What’s the difference between PSC and ECM blowers?

What Is a PSC Blower?

A PSC blower is a simple type of blower that can turn on and off. PSC blowers will turn on in response to the thermostat. If your HVAC system has a PSC blower and you set the thermostat to heating or cooling – or if you set the fan to “ON” -- the PSC blower will turn. It will continue to run until the desired temperature has been reached, at which point the PSC blower will turn off.

In the past, most HVAC systems had a PSC blower. PSC blowers are still around, but many new HVAC systems now feature an ECM blower. PSC blowers have been around for a longer length of time. ECM is a newer type of blower that’s becoming more popular.

What Is an ECM Blower?

An ECM blower is a type of blower that can operate at different speeds. ECM blowers can still turn on and off, but they support variable speeds.

ECM blowers don’t run at full speed all the time. Instead, they’ll typically start at a slow speed and gradually increase their speed.  The speed at which an ECM blower operates is determined by a controller. The controller will tell the ECM blower when to increase its speed and when to decrease its speed.

Choosing Between a PSC and ECM Blower

The main difference between PSC and ECM blowers is that the former can only turn on and off. ECM blowers, on the other hand, can operate at different speeds.

ECM blowers are also more energy efficient than PSC blowers. Some reports suggest that ECM blowers are over 50% more energy efficient than their PSC counterparts. PSC blowers run at full speed all the time, so they consume more energy.

ECM blowers are better protected from wear and tear than PSC blowers. By running at a slower speed, they are exposed to less mechanical friction. The result is a longer lifespan for ECM blowers.

Air Filter MERV Ratings: What You Should Know

When shopping for an air filter to use in your heating, ventilation and cooling (HVAC) system, you should consider the minimum efficiency reporting value (MERV) rating. Whether pleated or fiberglass, air filters typically feature a MERV rating. You can use it to determine how much particulate matter an air filter remove will remove.

What Are MERV Ratings

MERV ratings reflect the minimum size of the particulate matter that an air filter can remove. All air filters are designed to remove particulate matter. As air flows through them, airborne particulate matter will accumulate on the surface of an air filter. Some air filters, however, are capable of removing smaller pieces of particulate matter than others.

The MERV formula was developed by the American Society of Heating, Refrigerating and Air Conditioning Engineers (ASHRAE) in 1987. It uses a scale ranging from 1 to 16. The higher the MERV value, the smaller the particulate matter an air filter can remove. Air filters with a MERV rating of 16 can remove particulate matter as small as 1 to 0.3 microns.

What’s a Good MERV Rating?

You might be wondering what MERV rating to choose when shopping for an air filter. Air filters with a MERV rating of 1 to 4 offer the least amount of protection from airborne pollutants. They can typically remove pollen, dust and small fibers from carpet or upholstery, but many other forms of airborne debris will pass straight through them.

You can usually find air filters with a MERV rating of 1 to 4 on window air conditioning units. For a central HVAC system, however, you should choose an air filter with a higher MERV rating.

A MERV rating of 6 to 10 is more common for central HVAC air filters. With this range, air filters can remove smaller particulate matter. They can still remove all of the particulate matter as previously mentioned, but many of them can remove mold spores, dander and other ultra-small pieces of debris as well.

If you or someone in your family suffers from respiratory allergies, you may want to choose an air filter with an even higher MERV rating. Respiratory allergies are often triggered by small airborne pollutants. Something as simple as switching to an air filter with a higher MERV rating may offer relief.

Keep in mind that a high MERV rating can have a negative impact on airflow. It will restrict airflow through your HVAC system, which can lead to other problems. Therefore, you may want to avoid choosing an air filter with a MERV rating of 14 or higher.

The Energy-Efficient Benefits of Upgrading to a Sealed Furnace

Want to reduce your home’s energy usage during the winter? You should consider upgrading to a sealed furnace. Assuming your home is currently equipped with an atmospheric furnace, replacing it with a sealed furnace can reduce its energy usage during the winter.

Atmospheric vs Sealed Furnaces

Atmospheric and sealed furnaces are types of gas furnaces. They both have a combustion chamber. When running, they’ll burn natural gas to generate heat, which in turn warms the passing air.

Atmospheric furnaces are characterized by their ability to pull in air from inside of the home. They’ll mix the air with the natural gas before igniting it. Because they pull in air, atmospheric furnaces have an open combustion chamber. You can remove the front panel to see the flame.

Sealed furnaces, on the other hand, have a sealed combustion chamber. They don’t pull in air from inside of the home. Instead, sealed furnaces pull in fresh air from the outdoors. Sealed furnaces have a small plastic tube through which they suck in fresh air. The combustion chamber itself remains sealed so that indoor air can’t enter it.

Why You Should Consider a Sealed Furnace

Sealed furnaces are more energy efficient than atmospheric furnaces. The problem with atmospheric furnaces is that they have an open combustion chamber. Air will constantly flow into and out of the combustion chamber. As a result, they consume more energy than sealed furnaces.

While they still require air – just like atmospheric furnaces – sealed furnaces are more energy efficient. They don’t have an open combustion chamber. As previously mentioned, sealed furnaces only have a small plastic tube, which they use to suck in air from the outdoors.

If you’re tired of spending a fortune on your home’s heating costs, you may want to upgrade to a sealed furnace. More and more homeowners are choosing sealed furnaces because of their energy-efficient benefits. Sealed furnaces have a closed combustion chamber that traps all of their heat. The heat produced by a sealed furnace will be used to warm your home’s interior air. With an atmospheric furnace, on the other hand, heat will escape the furnace’s combustion chamber.

Not only are they more efficient, but sealed furnaces are also safer than atmospheric furnaces. Gas furnaces produce combustion gases as a byproduct. Among these combustion gases is carbon monoxide (CO). With their closed combustion chamber, sealed furnaces are less likely to leak combustion gases such as this into the home.

Do Furnaces Dehumidify?

If your home suffers from high indoor humidity levels during the winter, you might be wondering whether a furnace will dehumidify it. Air conditioning systems, of course, are capable of dehumidifying indoor spaces. They will remove both heat and moisture from the air while subsequently transferring these elements to the outdoors. While running your air conditioning system can dehumidify your home, though, furnaces work in a different way.

Furnaces Don’t Remove Moisture From the Air

Unlike air conditioning systems, furnaces don’t remove moisture from the air. Furnaces work by generating heat. Electric furnaces have a heating element that, when exposed to an electrical current, becomes hot. Gas furnaces have burners that ignite natural gas. Air will travel over the furnace’s respective heating element or burner assembly so that it becomes hot.

Older Furnaces May Indirectly Lower Humidity Levels

While furnaces don’t directly dehumidify, older furnaces may still indirectly lower humidity levels. Older furnaces are atmospheric furnaces. They feature an open combustion chamber, meaning you can watch the pilot light as it burns.

Because they feature an open design, they can lower humidity levels. Older, atmospheric furnaces will pull air from the outdoors -- and due to the difference in temperature between the outdoor and indoor air – they will lower indoor humidity levels.

What About Heat Exchangers?

Heat exchangers, on the other hand, can dehumidify. Heat exchangers are complete heating, ventilation and cooling (HVAC) systems that work by transferring heat. You can use a heat exchanger to cool your home during the summer and warm your home during the winter.

While in cooling mode, it will transfer heat from your home’s interior to your home’s exterior. While in heating mode, it will operate in reverse: the heat exchanger will transfer heat from your home’s exterior to its interior.

Running a heat exchanger in cooling mode will directly dehumidify your home. Heat exchangers work like air conditioning systems while in cooling mode; they’ll remove both heat and moisture from inside of your home. As they pass stagnant air over a coil, heat exchangers will pull moisture out of the air. This moisture will drip into a condensation pan where it’s flushed to your home’s exterior.

Many heat exchangers also come equipped with a dehumidifying mode. It allows them to dehumidify during the cooler months of the year as well. You can run a heat exchanger in dehumidifying mode to remove excess moisture from inside of your home.