Upflow vs Downflow Furnace: What’s the Difference?

Upflow vs Downflow Furnace: What’s the Difference?

Furnaces can often be classified according to the direction in which they blow conditioned air. All furnaces have a blower. Whether you’re trying to warm or cool your home, the blower will run. It’s a motorized fan that forces conditioned air into the ductwork so that it can be distributed throughout your home.

There are upflow furnaces and downflow furnaces, however. Both electric and gas furnaces are available in these upflow and downflow styles. What’s the difference between these two types of furnaces exactly?

What Is an Upflow Furnace?

An upflow furnace is a type of furnace that blows conditioned air upward. As air enters the bottom of an upflow furnace, it will be exposed to the heating element or heat exchanger. The heated air will then travel upwards where it enters the ductwork. Upflow furnaces are specifically designed to move conditioned air – both heated and cooled air – upwards.

What Is a Downflow Furnace?

A downflow furnace is a type of furnace that blows conditioned air downward. Downflow furnaces consist of the same basic parts as upflow furnaces. They simply move conditioned air in a different direction.

Stagnant air will enter a downflow furnace at the top. After being warmed or cooled, the newly conditioned air will then travel downward. It will move from the top of the downflow furnace to the bottom, at which point it will enter the ductwork.

Differences Between Upflow and Downflow Furnaces

The way in which a furnace is designed to blow conditioned air will determine whether it’s an upflow or downflow furnace. Upflow furnaces move conditioned air upward, whereas downflow furnaces move conditioned air downward.

Because they move conditioned air in different directions, upflow and downflow furnaces don’t perform the same. In warm climates, including the Southeast, upflow furnaces are typically more efficient at cooling homes. With an upflow furnace, the cool air produced your air conditioning system will travel upward. Upflow furnaces are typically installed in the basement or crawlspace, which is cooler than attics where downflow furnaces are typically installed.

Upflow furnaces are also easier to install than downflow furnaces.  Most downflow furnaces are installed in the attic. Attics, of course, often lack stable flooring. Even if your home has an attic, it may not have suitable flooring to accommodate a downflow furnace – at least not without making modifications to it. Basements are more likely to feature solid flooring, which is ideal for a downflow furnace.

What Is a Furnace Pressure Switch?

Gas furnaces feature several safety devices, one of which is a pressure switch. The pressure switch works automatically when your furnace is running. You typically won’t see it, nor will you hear it. As a safety device, though, the pressure switch is an important part of your furnace.

Overview of the Pressure Switch

The pressure is a safety device in gas furnaces that’s designed to shut down the furnace in the event of insufficient pressure. Gas furnaces generate combustion gases. A blower known as a draft inducer will force these combustion gases out of the furnace and into an exhaust pipe. If there’s not enough pressure present, the pressure switch will shut down the furnace.

How the Pressure Switch Works

When your furnace turns on, the pilot light or ignition system will burn gas inside of the combustion chamber. At the same time, the draft inducer will force the newly generated combustion gases out of this chamber – as well as the heat exchanger – and into the exhaust pipe. It will create negative pressure inside of the combustion gases.

The pressure switch will remain in an open position by default. It will switch to a closed position, however, if the pressure is too low. Low pressure means that the combustion gases won’t be able to exit the furnace. And if the furnace continues to run, the combustion gases will accumulate inside of it.

Why the Pressure Switch Is Important

Combustion gases are a health hazard. Carbon monoxide, for example, is a byproduct combustion gas that’s created by all appliances that burn natural gas. With a pressure switch, you can rest assured knowing that carbon monoxide and all other combustion gases are being safely dispelled out of your furnace.

If the pressure switch is automatically shutting down your furnace, it usually indicates a pressure problem. Maybe the draft inducer has failed and is no longer blowing air, or perhaps the exhaust pipe is clogged with debris. Regardless, you’ll need to find out what’s causing the pressure switch to trip so that you can fix it. Replacing the pressure switch won’t solve the problem. Pressure switches are designed specifically to shut down furnaces in the event of insufficient pressure.

Of course, pressure switches can fail. Failure means that it won’t be able to automatically shut down your furnace if there’s insufficient pressure. Instead, combustion gases may build up inside of the furnace and potentially leak into your home’s interior.

Why Your Outdoor Gas Lamp Isn't Lighting

An outdoor gas lamp is the perfect addition to any home’s exterior. It will offer a source of illumination when the sun goes down while improving your home’s curb appeal in the process. Outdoor gas lamps, however, aren’t immune to failure. If your outdoor gas lamp isn’t lighting, you’ll need to troubleshoot it.

Little or No Wick Left

Depending on the type of outdoor gas lamp you own, it may require a wick. There are two primary types of outdoor gas lamps: mantle and open flame. Mantle gas lamps feature a wick, whereas open-flame gas maps burn gas without a wick. If you own the former type, you’ll need to ensure the wick is intact. If it’s burned down or completely missing, you may struggle to light your outdoor gas lamp.

Clogged Bug Screen

Most outdoor gas lamps have a bug screen. As the name suggests, the bug screen is designed to catch bugs so that they don’t fly into the outdoor gas lamp. Bug screens can become clogged, however. As debris builds up on the surface of the bug screen, it will restrict fresh air from reaching the burner. You can typically clean bug screens by removing them and spraying them down with a garden hose.

Clogged Burner

If the burner is clogged, your outdoor gas lamp probably won’t light. The burner is the assembly at the base of an outdoor gas lamp that generates the flame. It’s connected to a gas line. Gas will travel to the burner where it fuels the flame. Like with other gas-burning appliances, though, the burner can become clogged. Dirt and mold can accumulate inside of the burner where it prevents gas from being released.

Wind Guests

Of course, wind gusts can prevent your outdoor gas lamp from lighting as well. Some outdoor gas lamps feature an enclosure that naturally protects them from wind gusts. Other gas lamps, conversely, have one or more open sides that are susceptible to wind gusts. Fortunately, there are wind shields available to protect outdoor gas lamps from wind gusts.

Get Your Outdoor Gas Lamp Professionally Inspected

The easiest way to determine why it’s not lighting is to get your outdoor gas lamp professionally inspected. Heating, ventilation and cooling (HVAC) technicians are familiar with outdoor gas lamps. They can troubleshoot a broken outdoor gas lamp, and after discovering what’s wrong with it, they can fix it.

5 Things to Consider When Choosing an HVAC Blower

Does your heating, ventilation and cooling (HVAC) system need a new blower? When the blower fails, you won’t be able to cool or warm your home. All HVAC systems need a working blower. If you’re thinking about buying a new HVAC blower, though, there are several things you should consider.

#1) Direct vs Belt Drive

Most blowers are either direct or belt drive. While they both consist of a motor and a fan, they are designed differently. Direct-drive blowers are designed with the fan sitting directly on top of the motor. Belt-drive blowers, on the other hand, are designed with the fan connected to the motor via a belt. Most residential HVAC systems use a direct-drive blower.

#2) Flow Rate

You should consider the flow rate when choosing a blower. Flow rate is a performance metric. It represents the speed at which a blower can move air. Some blowers have a flow rate of 750 cubic feet per minute (CFM), whereas others have a flow rate of 1,250 CFM. The higher the blower’s flow rate, the faster it will move air through your home. Flow rate is essentially the capacity of a blower.

#3) Fan Diameter

Blowers are available in different sizes. Some of them have larger, wider fans than others. The fan, of course, should be appropriately sized for your HVAC system. Most residential HVAC systems use fans measuring about 5 to 6 inches in diameter. Commercial HVAC systems, on the other hand, often use larger fans. Regardless, you’ll need to ensure the fan with which a blower is packaged is the right size for your HVAC system.

#4) Single vs Variable Speed

Something else to consider when choosing a blower is whether you want a single-speed or variable-speed model. Single-speed blowers are the most common. They operate a single speed – full capacity – when demanded by the HVAC system. Variable speed blowers are able to operate at different speeds. They will speed up and slow down automatically depending on the thermostat settings.

#5) Price

You’ll probably want to consider the price when choosing a blower. Some blowers are more expensive than others. Variable-speed blowers, for example, almost always cost more than single-speed blowers. Blowers with a high flow rate may also cost more than those with a low flow rate. Even the brand can affect a blower’s price. Regardless, you should consider the price when choosing a blower.

How Dampers Work in HVAC Systems

With the rise of zoning, dampers are becoming increasingly common in heating, ventilation and cooling (HVAC) systems. You can find them in residential and commercial HVAC systems alike. They are installed inside of the ductwork where they help redirect the conditioned air to the spaces where it’s needed.

What Is a Damper?

A damper is a mechanical valve that’s designed to control the direction in which an HVAC system’s conditioned air travels while going through the ductwork. They are found inside of the ductwork. In most HVAC systems, dampers are installed within 10 feet of the supply trunks.

Understanding How Dampers Work

They may sound complex, but dampers are relatively simple devices that have a straightforward method of operation. As previously mentioned, they are valves. Dampers can be open or closed. When a damper is open, the conditioned air produced by the HVAC system will be able to pass through it. When a damper is closed, on the other hand, it will block the conditioned air.

By acting as air valves, dampers can control which spaces receive conditioned air. Air ducts connect the supply trunks to individual rooms. Within these air ducts are dampers. If the damper in an air duct is closed, the room to which it connects won’t receive the conditioned air. Instead, the conditioned air will be redirected back into the HVAC system where it’s rerouted to other air ducts with an open damper or no damper.

There are manual dampers, and there are automatic dampers. Manual dampers require manual adjusting. You’ll have to open and close them manually on the outside of the air ducts in which they are installed. Automatic dampers are controlled automatically at the thermostat. You can switch to a different zone at the thermostat to open or close them.

Do You Need Dampers?

If you have a zoned HVAC system – or if you’re looking to upgrade to a zoned HVAC system – you’ll need dampers. Dampers are an essential part of a zoned HVAC system.

A zoned HVAC system is a type of indoor climate-controlling system that allows you to adjust the temperature of different areas of your home. Each area is a separate zone.  If you have a two-story house, for example, the ground floor may be one zone, and the top floor may be another zone. To achieve zoning such as this, your HVAC system must be equipped with dampers within the ductwork.

Leaking Flex Lines: What You Should Know

A leaking flex line can be expensive. It will continue to draw water as it leaks, resulting in higher utility expenses. Even a leak at a rate of just 30 drops per minute will consume over 1,000 gallons of water per year. To keep your utility expenses in check, you’ll need to ensure that your home isn’t leaking water. Water leaks can occur in different places, one of the most common being flex lines.

Overview of Flex Lines

Also known as flex hoses, flex lines are the flexible conduits that connect the water supply line to the various water-based appliances in your home. You can find them on kitchen faucets, refrigerators (assuming they have a water dispenser), washing machines, water heaters and other appliances that use water.

Common Types of Flex Lines

All flex lines feature a flexible construction that allows them to bend without breaking. This is important because flex lines are often installed in tight spaces. With their flexible construction, you can use them to connect the water supply line to the appliances in your home. There are different types of flex lines, however, each of which is made of a different material.

Some flex lines are made of nylon and polyvinyl chloride (PVC). They feature a PVC core with a nylon exterior. Other flex lines are made of braided steel. Like their nylon counterparts, they feature a PVC core. Rather than being wrapped in nylon, though, braided steel flex lines are wrapped in strands of braided steel.

How to Fix a Leaking Flex Line

Flex lines, unfortunately, can leak. When a flex line begins to leak, it will raise your home’s water usage. Depending on the severity of the leak, it may cause structural damage as well.

Water leaks can damage floors and walls. As water seeps out of the flex line, it may soak into nearby wooden structures. The floors and walls in your home may become saturated to the point where they rot. And even if they don’t rot, they may develop mold that contributes to indoor air pollution.

You can fix a leaking flex line by replacing it. Whether it’s made of nylon, braided steel or any other material, most flex lines are inexpensive. After turning off the water supply line, disconnect the old and leaking flex line and replace it with a new flex line of the same size.

What to Do If Your Gas Furnace’s Pilot Light Goes Out

Has your furnace’s pilot light gone out? Most older gas furnaces are dependent upon a pilot light. To generate heat, they expose natural gas to a small flame. The pilot light is responsible for producing this small flame. It will produce a small but steady flame within the burner assembly that ignites the natural gas.

As long as your furnace is running, the pilot light should stay. Pilot lights may go out prematurely, however. It may turn on initially when heating your home, only to go out before your furnace completes its heating cycle.

Check the Thermostat

An incorrect thermostat setting may cause your furnace’s pilot light to go out. Like most furnace parts, the pilot light works automatically in response to the settings on the thermostat. It will only produce a flame when there’s a demand for heat. If you discover your furnace’s pilot light has gone out, make sure the thermostat is set to heat – and the temperature for which it’s set is higher than the current indoor temperature.

Check the Gas Shutoff Valve

In addition to the thermostat, you should check the gas shut-off valve. Homes that are supplied with natural gas typically have a gas shutoff valve. Also known as a main shutoff valve, it allows you to control the flow of natural gas to your home.

If you or someone else engaged the gas shutoff valve, your furnace won’t receive any natural gas. Pilot lights require natural gas. Without natural gas, they won’t be able to produce a flame.

Manually Relight It

You may be able to manually relight the pilot light. Different furnaces have different types of pilot lights. Some of them have a simple button that you can press to relight the pilot light. Pressing and holding the button for 30 to 60 seconds should relight it.

Other furnaces have a knob for the pilot light. You’ll typically need to turn the knob to the “off” position, after which can turn it back to the “pilot” position. Knobs may or may not feature a “reset” button, which you can use to reset the pilot light.

Contact a Professional

If you’re unable to relight the pilot light, you should contact a heating, ventilation and cooling (HVAC) technician. Maybe the pilot light has failed, or perhaps the thermocouple has failed. An HVAC technician can troubleshoot your furnace to determine why the pilot light isn’t staying lit.

Gas Furnace Flame Sensor vs Thermocouple: What's the Difference?

Most gas furnaces have either a thermocouple or a flame sensor. They are safety devices that work automatically when a gas furnace is running. If your home has a gas furnace, it will likely feature either a flame sensor or a thermocouple. What’s the difference between these two furnace-related safety devices exactly?

What Is a Thermocouple?

A thermocouple is a safety device that’s designed to detect – as well as respond to – the presence of a flame with a pilot light. A pilot light, of course, is an ignition system. It creates a spark to ignite the natural gas released by the furnace’s valves. Around the top of the pilot light is a thermocouple.

The thermocouple will detect the presence of a flame with the pilot light. As long as the pilot light is lit, the thermocouple will allow the furnace’s valves to remain open. If the pilot light is out, conversely, the thermocouple will close the valves.

What Is a Flame Sensor?

A flame sensor is a similar type of safety device in gas furnaces. It controls the furnace’s valves by detecting the presence of a flame. With a flame, the flame sensor will allow the furnace’s valve to remain open. Without a flame, it will force the furnace’s valves to shut.  

Thermocouples and flame sensors are designed to control gas valves. Gas furnaces have valves that release natural gas. Some gas furnaces have a thermocouple to control these valves, whereas others have a flame sensor. Thermocouples and flame sensors are responsible for opening and closing these valves depending on whether or not a flame is present.

Differences Between Thermocouples and Flame Sensors?

Gas furnaces require either a flame sensor or thermocouple to prevent excess and unburned gas from being released. The main difference between these two safety devices is that thermocouples are used with pilot lights, whereas flame sensors are used with electronic ignition systems.

In the past, all gas furnaces had a pilot light. Pilot lights are still found on some gas furnaces, but most modern gas furnaces now have an electronic ignition system. If you have a new gas furnaces, chances are it features an electronic ignition system.

Electronic ignition systems still produce a flame. As their name suggests, though, electronic ignition systems use electricity. The bottom line is that old gas furnaces with a pilot light use a thermocouple, whereas newer gas furnaces with an electronic ignition system use a flame sensor.

How to Prepare Your HVAC System for Spring

Is your heating, ventilation and cooling (HVAC) system ready for spring? Spring typically brings milder weather than other seasons of the year. When spring rolls around, however, you’ll probably stop using your furnace and start using your air conditioning system. Failure to prepare your HVAC system for this transition could result in poor performance or worse.

Clean the Condenser Unit

You can prepare your HVAC system for spring by cleaning the condenser unit. Condenser units can become dirty during the winter. They can attract leaves, pine straw and other forms of debris. With a dirty condenser unit, your air conditioning system may perform poorly.

The condenser unit is the large outdoor-installed box that houses your air conditioning system’s condenser coil, compressor and compressor fan. They aren’t sealed. Rather, condenser units are designed to be partially open so that heat can escape them. With their partially open design, they can become dirty, which is why it’s a good idea to clean the condenser unit.

Replace the Air Filter

If it’s been several months or longer since you replaced your HVAC system’s air filter, you should consider changing it. Whether you’re running the air conditioning system or the furnace, your HVAC system will pull air through the filter. The air filter’s job is to clean the air by removing particulate matter from it.

Air filters, though, don’t last forever. Most homeowners will need to replace their HVAC system’s air filter once every 30 to 90 days. Otherwise, they may experience increased indoor pollution and/or restricted airflow that hinders their HVAC system’s performance.

Open Air Vents

To prepare your HVAC system for spring, make sure all of the air vents are open. Closed air vents can create cooling problems. If all of the supply air vents in a room are closed, the room won’t receive any conditioned air. As a result, it will feel warmer than the rest of the rooms in your home.

Closed return air vents can affect the comfort of your entire home. Return air vents are those that supply your air conditioning system with air. Without a steady supply of air, your air conditioning system won’t be able to remove heat and, thus, cool your home.

Run the AC

Running the air conditioning system will better prepare your HVAC system for spring. Most homeowners, of course, rarely or never run their air conditioning system during the winter. It’s not until spring when they begin to use it.

Instead of waiting until spring, go ahead and turn on your air conditioning system. Running your air conditioning system for a short period will allow you to test it.

HVAC Commissioning: An Essential Process for New HVAC Installations

Are you thinking about upgrading your home’s heating, ventilation and cooling (HVAC) system? HVAC systems don’t last forever. Both air conditioning systems and furnaces have an average lifespan of about 15 to 20 years. Maybe your current HVAC system no longer turns on, or perhaps it consumes an excessive amount of energy.

A new HVAC system can be a smart investment. Rather than continuing to use your old HVAC system, you can upgrade it to a new HVAC system. When an HVAC technician installs the new HVAC system, however, they should commission it. Commissioning is an essential process for new installations.

The Basics of HVAC Commissioning

HVAC commissioning is the process of testing a new HVAC system to ensure it performs as expected. It typically comes immediately after installation. The HVAC technician who installed your new HVAC system will perform a series of tests. A process known as commissioning, these tests will verify its performance.

While different HVAC technicians perform different tests when commissioning new HVAC systems, they’ll typically check the following:

·         Whole-house air leakage

·         Ductwork air leakage

·         Refrigerant pressure

·         Static pressure

·         Temperature change

Why HVAC Commissioning Is Important

Installing a new HVAC system is a complicated job. A complete HVAC system, of course, consists of a central heating system and a central air conditioning system. If any of the equipment is improperly installed – or if it contains manufacturing defects – the HVAC system may fail to perform as expected.

Commissioning will ensure that your new HVAC system was properly installed and isn’t suffering from any manufacturing defects. During this process, the HVAC technician will test your new HVAC system’s equipment.

If the HVAC technician discovers a problem during the commissioning process, he or she can fix it. The HVAC technician may, in fact, be able to fix it immediately. You won’t have to call and schedule another appointment. HVAC technicians can fix many common problems discovered during the commissioning process. Maybe there’s a torn seam in the ductwork that’s causing air to leak out, or perhaps the static pressure is wrong. Regardless, the HVAC technician may be able to fix it on the spot.

In Conclusion

When shopping for a new HVAC system, you should inquire about whether the installation comes with commissioning. Commissioning is an important process for new HVAC installations. It consists of a series of tests that will verify the performance and functionality of a new HVAC system.

Do Return Vents Need Air Filters?

Heating, ventilation and cooling (HVAC) systems do more than just regulate indoor temperatures; they clean the air by removing particulate matter. All central HVAC systems have a main air filter. You can typically find it inside of the furnace next to the blower assembly. When running your HVAC system, the air filter will remove dust, mold, pollen and other airborne pollutants.

Some HVAC systems, however, have return air filters as well. They still have a main air filter inside of the furnace, but they have additional air filters for the return vents.

What Are Return Air Filters?

Return air filters are exactly what they sound like: air filters for the return vents in a home. They are available in the same materials as standard, furnace-installed air filters. You can find return air filters in fiberglass, pleated paper, polyester and other common materials. Return air filters are simply designed for use in return vents.

Advantages of Return Air Filters

Using return air filters can promote cleaner ductwork. Return vents are air vents that create a suction force. Your HVAC system will draw air from your home’s indoor spaces through the return vents. Return air filters will clean the air before it reaches your HVAC system’s equipment and the ductwork.

Return air filters are easy to access. They are installed directly behind the return vents’ grilles. You can typically access a return air filter by unscrewing and removing the grille.

Disadvantages of Return Air Filters

Like other air filters, return air filters must be replaced. The longer a return air filter goes unchanged, the dirtier it will become.

Failure to regularly change return air filters will restrict your HVAC system’s airflow. Your HVAC system won’t be able to pull enough air to cool or warm your home’s indoor spaces. To prevent this from happening, you’ll have to change your return air filters every few months.

Another problem that can occur if you don’t change return air filters is mold. Return air filters are found behind the vent grilles. Over time, dust may accumulate on them while paving the way for mold.

Most homes don’t need return air filters. The main air filter will suffice at removing pollutants from the air.  Air must still travel through the main filter before entering your home’s ductwork. As long as you use a high-quality main air filter – and change it every few months – you shouldn’t need return air filters.

5 Common Myths About Boilers

While not as common as furnaces and heat pumps, boilers are still used as residential heating systems. They’ve been around since the late 18th century. Boilers generate radiant heat that can create comfortable indoor living spaces during the cooler months of the year. Below are five common myths about boilers that you shouldn’t believe.

#1) Requires Ductwork

Boilers don’t require ductwork. This is one of the main ways in which they differ from furnaces. Furnaces are central, forced-air heating systems. Furnaces generate hot air by consuming natural gas or electricity. A blower will force this hot air into the ductwork where it’s then distributed to the individual rooms. Boilers, on the other hand, generate hot water by consuming either natural gas or electricity. The hot water will run through baseboards or radiators to heat your home’s living spaces.

#2) Cheaper Than Furnaces

Most boilers aren’t cheaper than furnaces. You can expect to pay more for a boiler than a furnace. Boilers are more complex. They consist of a water-heating system along with baseboard passages or radiators. Regardless, boilers cost more to purchase and install than furnaces.
#3) Powered By Boiling Water

Another common myth is that boilers are powered by boiling water. In the past, boilers did, in fact, use boiling water. They would boil water to generate steam. The steam would travel through the home’s baseboards or radiators to warm it. Modern boilers no longer use boiling water. Instead, they simply use heated water, which is typically achieved by consuming natural gas.

#4) Increases Humidity

Humidity isn’t a concern with a boiler. When installed properly, a boiler shouldn’t make your home more humid. Some people assume that boilers increase indoor humidity levels because of their water-based operation. Boilers work by heating water, followed by sending this heated water through baseboards and radiators. Boilers, however, use a closed heating system. None of the water should be able to escape the boiler, so it won’t affect indoor humidity levels.

#5) No Maintenance Requires

Boilers aren’t maintenance free. Of course, they don’t have an air filter. Only forced-air heating systems, such as furnaces, have an air filter. Boilers don’t use ductwork, nor are they are forced-air heating systems. While you won’t have to change the air filter on it, boilers still require some basic maintenance.  The baseboard and radiator passages, for example, may require flushing, and the mechanical parts of a boiler may require lubrication.

What Are Heat Strips and How Do They Work?

A heat pump is an energy-efficient heating solution. It can cool your home during the summer, and it can warm your home during the winter. When in heating mode, a heat pump will absorb heat from the outdoor ground or air, after which it will transfer this heat into your home.

Heat pumps, however, typically feature heat strips as well. They won’t always use the heat strips. Rather, heat pumps only use heat strips when it’s excessively cold outside. What are heat strips, and how do they work exactly?

The Basics of Heat Strips

Auxiliary heat strips, or what’s more commonly known simply as heat strips, are supplementary heating components that are powered by electricity. They consist of coiled pieces of thin metal. Most heat pumps feature a heat strip assembly. The assembly has several rows of heat strips, each of which are connected to a wire.

How Heat Strips Work

Heat strips work in a similar way as the heating element of an electric furnace. They are connected to your home’s power supply. As electricity travels through the heat strips’ metal coils, they’ll generate heat.

It’s important to note that heat pumps don’t always use heat strips to generate heat. In most cases, heat pumps generate heat exclusively by pumping it from the home’s exterior to the home’s interior. If the air outside of your home is too cold, though, the heat pump may use the heat strips.

Most heat pumps use heat strips for defrosting purposes as well. Your heat pump will automatically enter defrost mode to prevent the outdoor unit from freezing up. During the defrost mode, it will use the heat strips to generate heat.

When to Replace Heat Strips

Heat strips don’t last forever. Over time, they can burn out to the point where they generate little or no heat.

If your heat pump’s heat strips burned out, you may notice a burning smell originating from the air handling unit (AHU). Heat strips are found inside of the AHU. When heat strips burn out, you can often smell them around the AHU.

A frozen outdoor unit is a telltale sign of bad heat strips. As previously mentioned, heat pumps use heat strips for defrosting purposes. If the heat strips have burned out or otherwise failed, your heat pump may not be able to defrost itself, resulting on ice forming over the outdoor unit.

Worn Bearings: A Common Problem With Furnaces

If you’ve noticed unusual noises coming from your furnace, a worn bearing could be to blame. It’s a common problem with furnaces. Both gas and electric furnaces have bearings. Over time, these bearings can wear out while manifesting in the form of unusual noises. If left unchecked, worn bearings can cause other problems like insufficient airflow and poor heating.

What Are Bearings?

Bearings are fittings that are designed to reduce friction between two or more moving parts. They typically consist of a circular-shaped piece of soft material with a hollow center. Some of them, alternatively, may feature a set of enclosed balls around the hollow center. Regardless, bearings are used to reduce friction between moving parts.

How Bearings Work in Furnaces

Neither the heating element of an electrical furnace nor the burner assembly of a gas furnace will move. Heating elements and burner assemblies are stationary parts. Furnaces, however, have a blower as well. The blower is responsible for forcing the warm conditioned air produced by the furnace into the ductwork. To perform this task, some of the blower’s parts will move.

Furnace blowers are fans, and like most fans, they feature a set of blades. As the blades spin, they’ll draw the warm and conditioned air from the furnace into the ductwork. Furnaces blowers typically feature a bearing to promote a smoother operation. The bearing will act as padding to absorb vibrations and reduce friction.

Signs of Worn Bearings

If your furnace has a worn bearing, you may notice unusual noises originating from it. Most blowers have a bearing. You can usually find the blower at the bottom of your furnace. Screening, grinding or other unusual noises originating from this area may be indicative of a worn bearing.

During the early stages of failure, worn bearings may simply produce unusual noises. If you don’t replace it, though, the worn bearing may cause other problems.

Assuming the worn bearing is located in your furnace’s blower, it may cause decreased airflow. Blowers are responsible for moving air into the ductwork. If the bearing has completely failed, the blower may struggle to move air into the ductwork. As a result, you may feel little or no heat coming out of the supply vents in your home.

Keep in mind that most air conditioning systems rely on the furnace blower to move air into the ductwork. Therefore, you may experience these same problems when running your air conditioning system.

The Dos and Don’ts of Storing Real Firewood

To use your home’s wood-burning fireplace this winter, you’ll need to have an adequate supply of firewood. Wood-burning fireplaces require the use of wood logs. Of course, you probably won’t use all of your firewood in a single night. When storing unused firewood, consider the following tips.

Do Store Outdoors

You should typically store firewood outdoors – or in a garage or basement. There’s nothing wrong with keeping a few logs near your fireplace so that you can replenish the fire. Storing all or most of your firewood indoors, though, can attract pests like termites, beetles and spiders.

Don’t Place on the Ground

While you should store most of your firewood outdoors, you shouldn’t place it directly on the ground. Firewood doesn’t have a solid surface. Like the trees from which it’s cut, firewood has a porous surface. Placing firewood directly on the ground will allow it to absorb moisture from the underlying soil. The firewood will soak up moisture that inhibits its ability to burn. Rather than placing it on the ground, place your firewood on an elevated and open-floor structure, such as a pallet or rack.

Do Cover It

Another tip to follow when storing firewood is to cover it. Assuming you store it outdoors, your firewood will be exposed to the elements. It will soak up moisture from the rain, sleet and snow. After getting wet, you may not be able to light a wood log. And even if are able to light it, the wood log may not burn cleanly. Firewood needs to be dry in order for it to burn cleanly. You can keep your firewood dry by covering it with a weatherproof tarp.

Don’t Stack Against Your Home

Avoid stacking firewood directly against the side of your home. While it may be easy to access, it increases the risk of property damage. Firewood can attract pests. As previously mentioned, termites are attracted to it. If you stack firewood directly against the side of your home, you may inadvertently these destructive pests into your home.

If you don’t want to mess with storing, as well as handling, firewood, you can purchase a gas fireplace. Gas fireplaces don’t require firewood. You can use ceramic logs in a gas fireplace, instead. Most ceramic logs last for about 10 years. With just a single set of ceramic logs, you’ll be able to use your gas fireplace for many years.

Flexible vs Rigid Ductwork: What's the Difference?

Ductwork is an important part of all residential heating, ventilation and cooling (HVAC) systems. Consisting of conduits, it moves conditioned air from the furnace and air conditioning system to the individual rooms in a home. There are two different types of ductwork, however: flexible and rigid. While they both consist of conduits, they differ in several ways.

What Is Flexible Ductwork?

Flexible ductwork is characterized by the use of flexible conduits. In other words, it’s able to bend and flex. Ductwork is considered flexible if it features conduits made of a flexible material. It’s still used for the same purpose of distributing conditioned air into rooms. Flexible ductwork simply features flexible conduits that can bend and flex.

Some of the most common materials in which flexible ductwork is made include the following:

·         Natural or synthetic rubber

·         Polyvinyl chloride (PVC)

·         Plastic

·         Silicone

·         Polyester

What Is Rigid Ductwork?

Rigid ductwork, on the other hand, is characterized by the use of stiff and rigid conduits. The conduits may be rectangular shaped, or they may be cylindrical shaped. Regardless, rigid ductworks feature stiff and rigid conduits. You can’t bend or otherwise deform these conduits – at least not without breaking them.

Some of the most common materials in which rigid ductwork is made include the following:

·         Compressed fiberglass

·         Aluminum sheet metal

·         Steel sheet metal

Differences Between Flexible and Rigid Ductwork

The main difference between flexible and rigid ductwork is that the former can bend and flex, whereas the latter can not. Whether made of rubber, PVC or any other material, all flexible ductwork can bend and flex. Rigid ductwork doesn’t offer these same flexible properties.

Flexible ductwork is easier to install than its rigid counterpart. The conduits can be bent to direct conditioned air to various rooms. For rigid ductwork, joints are often required to change the direction of conditioned air.

Flexible ductwork also costs less than rigid ductwork. The materials from which it’s made are cheaper than those used in the construction of rigid ductwork. As a result, flexible ductwork costs less. And because it’s easier to install, flexible ductwork has lower installation costs.

For residential HVAC systems, flexible ductwork is typically the preferred choice. It’s easier to install and costs less than rigid ductwork. For commercial HVAC systems, conversely, rigid ductwork might be worth the investment. Rigid ductwork lasts longer because it’s made of stronger materials. If you’re looking to buy new ductwork for your home’s HVAC system, though, flexible ductwork should suffice.

The Role of a Furnace Inducer Motor

Gas furnaces feature dozens of parts. While you might be familiar with some of these parts, such as the burner assembly and heat exchanger, you might be unfamiliar with the inducer motor. Nearly all modern gas furnaces have an inducer motor. It plays an important role in both the safety and performance of gas furnaces.

What Is a Furnace Inducer Motor?

Also known as a draft inducer motor, a furnace inducer motor is a type of blower that’s designed to remove any lingering gases in the heat exchanger of a gas furnace. They are available in different types. Most inducer motors, however, consist of a propeller-bladed motorized fan with a built-in electrical box.

To generate heat, your furnace must burn natural gas. This combustion process will occur inside of your furnace’s heat exchanger. The burner assembly will ignite natural gas, resulting in flames inside of the heat exchanger. The inducer motor is responsible for purging and removing the byproduct gases from the heat exchanger after combustion has occurred.

Combustion gases occur in all gas furnaces. While they are contained to the heat exchanger, they must be removed. The inducer motor is designed to remove combustion gases.

How Furnace Inducer Motors Work

Inducer motors are designed to turn on automatically at the beginning of each heating cycle. Before the burner assembly ignites the gas, the inducer motor will turn on. It will receive voltage from the built-in electrical box, which turns on the inducer motor.

Upon turning on, the inducer motor will force air through the interior of your furnace’s heat exchanger. It’s essentially a ventilation component. As the inducer motor’s blades spin, any lingering combustion gases in the heat exchanger will be removed. The combustion gases will be pushed out of the heat exchanger and, thus, safely exhausted outside of your home.

Signs of a Failing Furnace Inducer Motor

How do you know if your furnace needs a new inducer motor? Your furnace may produce less heat with a bad inducer motor. Gas furnaces produce heat by burning natural gas inside of the heat exchanger. The presence of lingering combustion gases from a prior heating cycle will interfere with this process.

You may hear strange noises coming from your furnace if it has a bad inducer motor. Inducer motors consist primarily of a motorized fan. Like all motorized fans, they spin when turned on. A bad inducer motor may contain loose or otherwise damaged parts that vibrate excessively, resulting in loud noises.

5 Tips to Turn on the Heat With Your Gas Fireplace

When the temperature begins to drop, you may want to turn on your gas fireplace. Gas fireplaces offer a supplemental form of heating. By burning natural gas, they’ll generate heat that radiates into your home’s living space. Some gas fireplaces, however, generate more heat than others. Even if your gas fireplace generates little or no heat, you can make it hotter in several ways.

#1) Turn on the Blower

Assuming your gas fireplace has a blower, you can turn it on to maximize the heat output. Blowers are electric fans that, as the name suggests, are designed to blow air. They are commonly used with gas fireplaces. A blower will push the warm air produced by your gas fireplace into your home’s living space.

#2) Open the Gas Line

Perhaps the easiest way to make your gas fireplace hotter is to open the gas line. Nearly all gas fireplaces have an adjustable gas line. The control mechanism for the gas line typically consists of a knob, which may or may not require a generic-looking key to turn. Turning the knob clockwise will open the gas line, whereas turning the knob the counterclockwise will close the gas line. With the gas line fully open, your fireplace will produce a taller flame that results in more heat.

#3) Install a Draft Hood

For a warmer gas fireplace, you can install a draft hood. Also known as a draft diverter, a draft hood will fuel your gas fireplace with more air. Gas fireplaces require both natural gas and air to generate heat. A draft hood will supply your fireplace with more of the latter.

#4) Get Logs Professionally Serviced

When was the last time that your gas logs were professionally serviced? If it’s been over a year, you may want to get them professionally serviced. Gas logs must be properly arranged. Otherwise, they may block the burner assembly, resulting in less heat. Servicing will ensure that your gas logs are clean and properly arranged to maximize your fireplace’s heat output.

#5) Install a Fireback

In addition to a draft hood, you can make your gas fireplace hotter by installing a fireback. A fireback is one or more sheets of metal that are installed in the back of a fireplace. They are designed to radiate heat. Without a fireback, most of the heat generated by your gas fireplace will rise into the chimney. A fireback prevents them from happening by reflecting heat into your home’s living space.

5 Common Causes of Refrigerant Leaks in Heat Pumps

Heat pumps rely on refrigerant to transfer heat from indoor spaces to outdoor spaces and vise versa. Whether you’re warming your home or cooling your home with a heat pump, refrigerant will move through its components to facilitate the transfer of heat and, thus, regulate your home’s indoor temperature.

Refrigerant, however, can leak out of heat pumps. As levels of refrigerant begin to drop, your heat pump will no longer be able to cool or warm your home. What causes refrigerant leaks in heat pumps exactly?

#1) A Cracked Refrigerant Line

A cracked refrigerant line can cause this heat-transferring chemical to leak out of your heat pump. Like air conditioning systems, heat pump systems have refrigerant lines. They are typically made of copper. Over time, refrigerant lines can degrade or even crack. If the crack extends completely through the line, it will allow refrigerant to escape.

#2) Worn Seal

A worn seal can cause your heat pump to leak refrigerant.  Refrigerant will travel through multiple components when your heat pump is running. It will travel through the indoor coil and the outdoor coil, for instance, and it will travel a pair of refrigerant lines. Seals are often used on the mating surfaces of these components to protect against leaks. If a seal fails, refrigerant may leak around the mating surface.

#3) Improper Installation

Improper installation is a common cause of heat pump refrigerant leaks.  Heat pumps are complex systems. With their dual-purpose function – they can heat and cool your home – they require proper installation. If your heat pump was installed improperly, it may leak refrigerant.

#4) Corrosion

Corrosion can cause refrigerant leaks in heat pumps. Refrigerant lines are typically protected against corrosion. They can tarnish due to oxidation, but they generally won’t ruse or corrode. With that said, the non-copper components in your heat pump may be susceptible to corrosion. As corrosion eats through a refrigerant-carrying component, it can create a leak.

#5) Outdoor Coil Damage

Damage to your heat pump’s outdoor coil may result in a refrigerant leak. Heat pumps have an outdoor coil that’s similar to that of an air conditioning system. The main difference is that the heat pump’s outdoor coil can operate as an evaporator coil or a condenser coil. Regardless of which mode it’s currently operating in, the outdoor coil will contain refrigerant. Any physical damage to the outdoor coil may then create a leak.

What Is a Dual-Fuel Heating System?

Have you heard of dual-fuel heating systems? They are centralized heating systems that leverage two types of fuel. If you’re thinking about upgrading your home’s heating, ventilation and cooling (HVAC) system, you might be wondering whether a dual-fuel heating system is a smart investment. A dual-fuel heating system can warm your home during the winter like most other heating systems, but it uses two separate types of fuel.

Dual-Fuel Heating Systems Defined

A dual-fuel heating system is a type of central heating system that leverages an electric furnace as well as a heat pump. It’s essentially a combination of the two aforementioned heating systems. Dual-fuel heating systems contain a gas furnace and a heat pump. They are known as “dual-fuel heating systems” because they consume two types of fuel: gas for the furnace and electricity for the heat pump.

With a dual-fuel heating system, your home will be equipped with an electric furnace and a heat pump. You can switch between these two separate systems at the thermostat.

Benefits of Dual-Fuel Heating Systems

Dual-fuel heating systems offer several benefits. You can use them to both warm and cool your home, for instance. All dual-fuel heating systems contain a heat pump. Heat pumps are HVAC systems that can either transfer heat from inside of your home to the outside or transfer heat from the outside of your home to the inside. In the former mode, a heat pump will cool your home. In the latter mode, a heat pump will warm your home.

A dual-fuel heating system isn’t just effective at cooling; it’s energy efficient. A heat pump can cool your home using less energy than a traditional air conditioning system. And because dual-fuel heating systems contain a heat pump, they can save you money in the form of lower utility bills during the summer.

You’ll have a backup heating solution available with a dual-fuel heating system. If the furnace stops working, you can switch to the heat pump. The heat pump in a dual-fuel heating system has two modes: heating and cooling. In the event that your furnace fails or otherwise struggles to warm your home, you can switch to the heat pump.

Of course, you can use a dual-fuel heating system either with or without an air conditioning system. An air conditioning system will provide stronger cooling power, making this setup preferable among homeowners in the Southeast.